The Luxman R-1050 is in protection mode after a lightening storm

[marauderx]

Several years ago, my R-1050 quit working and only goes into protection mode. No fuses blew, and there are no obvious suspects when it comes to visually failed parts. The relay has smoke marks on the inside of the clear cube.
I am really handy with a soldering station, but my on board trouble shooting skills are seriously lacking. I don't have a scope, but the Fluke 787 works well. I downloaded the schematics, and am guessing I need to start with the capacitors at the rectifier.
Any wise words for starting this endeavor?
Marauderx

 

[east electronics]

--check for blown outputs if so remove them
--Check all peripherals like drivers and diodes for shorts
--Recap most of the amplifier
--Check power supply parts like diodes and capacitors
--verify all voltage present according to the schematic
--good replacement will be the 21193-4
--Re bias the amplifier though according to specs
--focus on secondary power supply verify present voltage also ( area of Q118)
--focus on protection circuit ( area of Q 113,114,115.116,117 )
--Replace suspicious relay
--separate circuits like pre -main amp and or protection circuit by verifying signal present regardless if protection circuit works or not
-- Apply safe start procedures like installing a 60-100W bulb in series with mains when at testing mode
---power up recheck offset and bias ....listen to nice music ....


( inside an airplane there was a treat like a plastic package with peanuts .... on it was written instructions
--Caution : contains peanuts
--instructions:
open bug
eat peanuts )

 

[marauderx]

Ok, I have been out of the Game for about 12 years. So please excuse my rudimentary questions- but if I get some stuff finally ironed out, I will be more effective on the bench.
++++= I can do that in my sleep
+= I can do it, but it will take me some time
?= I have some what of a clue
????= I am completely clueless, clue free, and have only heard the word before. That is all I know about it.

--check for blown outputs if so remove them

(? output transistors, ie the ones on the heat sinks?)

--Check all peripherals like drivers and diodes for shorts

(????Peripherals? Drivers? This is where I need a little help, patience and thorough articles/explaination)(diodes-++++)
--Recap most of the amplifier
++++

--Check power supply parts like diodes and capacitors
++++
--verify all voltage present according to the schematic
++
--good replacement will be the 21193-4
--Re bias the amplifier though according to specs
(??It has been a looooong time)

--focus on secondary power supply verify present voltage also ( area of Q118)
+
--focus on protection circuit ( area of Q 113,114,115.116,117 )
?
--Replace suspicious relay
++++
--separate circuits like pre -main amp and or protection circuit by verifying signal present regardless if protection circuit works or not ??
??
-- Apply safe start procedures like installing a 60-100W bulb in series with mains when at testing mode
????
---power up recheck offset and bias ....listen to nice music ....
?,?,++++

Yes, I am ignorant, but Use it or lose it! And I lost it. I have forgotten everything I knew about solid state. But I have soldered the SMT ribbon connectors back onto a board in a COMAND/Nav unit in a Mercedes CL55 with my Weller WES51 and saved my boss $7000... Swapping parts I can do, I just do not have a functional understanding of amplifiers, and op-amps. Rebuilding automotive components(Obvious burned up parts/relays) in modules I am good with- but Amps elude me.
Thank you for your patience!