Removable Baffles

[LafeEric]

While perusing the ZaphAudio site the other day I read how all the speakers he builds nowadays have removable baffles. I thought this was a great idea which actually solves a problem I am currently facing.

I am building a rather large speaker but there are some pretty important questions about the design I am just not going be able to answer until I have built the speaker - the classic catch 22. I don't want to waste a lot of time and money on building an entire test enclosure or enclosures... and why should I if I can just replace the baffle?

The question I have is how well is it actually going to work in my project. As I said, they are rather large (> 200L) so I am wondering if I will be able to get them to seal okay, or if they will rattle at volume, or might there be some other unforeseen problem?

How about some of you - do you have any experience or tips or even better ideas you would be willing to share?

 

[chrisb]

While perusing the ZaphAudio site the other day I read how all the speakers he builds nowadays have removable baffles. I thought this was a great idea which actually solves a problem I am currently facing.

I am building a rather large speaker but there are some pretty important questions about the design I am just not going be able to answer until I have built the speaker - the classic catch 22. I don't want to waste a lot of time and money on building an entire test enclosure or enclosures... and why should I if I can just replace the baffle?

The question I have is how well is it actually going to work in my project. As I said, they are rather large (> 200L) so I am wondering if I will be able to get them to seal okay, or if they will rattle at volume, or might there be some other unforeseen problem?

How about some of you - do you have any experience or tips or even better ideas you would be willing to share?

sit the baffle on a recessed perimeter frame gusseted at corners to maintain structural integrity and dadoed into the sides/top/bottom, attach with threaded insert fittings (at least 6 per panel) and seal with closed cell neoprene / weather strip tape etc.


edit: exposed margin of perimeter frame should be at least 1 - 1.5" & on that large a box, it wouldn't hurt to run a few frame members and/or hardwood braces across the width of enclosure supporting the removable baffle, in addition to other cabinet bracing

I'm a big fan of bracing, on even the simplest of boxes

 

[LafeEric]

sit the baffle on a recessed perimeter frame gusseted at corners to maintain structural integrity and dadoed into the sides/top/bottom, attach with threaded insert fittings (at least 6 per panel) and seal with closed cell neoprene / weather strip tape etc.


edit: exposed margin of perimeter frame should be at least 1 - 1.5" & on that large a box, it wouldn't hurt to run a few frame members and/or hardwood braces across the width of enclosure supporting the removable baffle, in addition to other cabinet bracing

I'm a big fan of bracing, on even the simplest of boxes

Thanks for the reply chrisb.

Nice work in the photo! 🙂

What you describe certainly sounds like it would work. I was simply going to screw/glue some hardwood strips around the perimeter. If I'm careful with alignment it should seal fine with the tape you recommend.

Part of the problem also is due to the size of the cabinet I would have to buy another sheet of plywood just for the dadoed perimeters, and I'm on a bit of a budget. Are you saying you've had problems with less substantial construction? Also, how much clearence around the edges do you recommend? Would something soft around the perimeter help to mitigate any possible noises, like felt tape?

Thanks so much for sharing your time and expertise.

 

[chrisb]

Thanks for the reply chrisb.

Nice work in the photo! 🙂

What you describe certainly sounds like it would work. I was simply going to screw/glue some hardwood strips around the perimeter. If I'm careful with alignment it should seal fine with the tape you recommend.

Part of the problem also is due to the size of the cabinet I would have to buy another sheet of plywood just for the dadoed perimeters, and I'm on a bit of a budget. Are you saying you've had problems with less substantial construction? Also, how much clearence around the edges do you recommend? Would something soft around the perimeter help to mitigate any possible noises, like felt tape?

Thanks so much for sharing your time and expertise.

Well, I do sometimes get carried away with bracing, and in this case solid hardwood cleats/ledger strips ( at least 1" x 1" ) around the perimeter, with separate lateral wall bracing if not already incorporated should be fine. For baffles that are likely to be removed frequently, I prefer using threaded inserts rather than screws on the cleats, and closed cell weatherstrip tape to ensure adequate seal.

 

[LafeEric]

Well, I do sometimes get carried away with bracing, and in this case solid hardwood cleats/ledger strips ( at least 1" x 1" ) around the perimeter, with separate lateral wall bracing if not already incorporated should be fine. For baffles that are likely to be removed frequently, I prefer using threaded inserts rather than screws on the cleats, and closed cell weatherstrip tape to ensure adequate seal.

Thanks again.