I've been looking for a cheap, readily available, reasonably capable meter that people can use for simple repair work. I've purchased several meters and most have problems that make them undesirable. The following meter seems to be OK and it's cheap. Does anyone know of any problems (reliability, etc...) that would make this meter a poor choice?
Does anyone have any other suggestions for a cheap, readily available meter?
I'm not suggesting that anyone buy this meter at this time. I need to use it a bit more but at this time, this seems to be the best cheap meter that I can find.
Does anyone have any other suggestions for a cheap, readily available meter?
I'm not suggesting that anyone buy this meter at this time. I need to use it a bit more but at this time, this seems to be the best cheap meter that I can find.
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ive been tempted to try a few of these off this site. i dont know if they work.they are too cheap.
Digital Multimeter, Cheap Testers - Free Shipping - DealExtreme
Digital Multimeter, Cheap Testers - Free Shipping - DealExtreme
This is only for the amateur that will use it a few times to repair their own amp. For someone in the business of repairing amplifiers, I strongly recommend Fluke meters.
Two of the most important 'requirements' are that it's auto-ranging. I've had too many problems with people who could not get their meter on the correct range.
Another requirement is that it must not read DC as AC. Too many cheap meters will read 12v DC as a significant AC voltage when the meter is set to AC voltage but connected to a DC source. This interferes with readings where you need to see if there is AC voltage on a point where where there is a DC bias (like on the drains of the power supply FETs).
The meter also needs to be relatively fast. Most cheap auto-ranging meters take about 1 second to step through each range. If it has to step through 5 ranges, that's 5 seconds per reading. That's extremely annoying. The meter shouldn't take more than a second to read the value of a resistor. This one takes longer than 1 second but it's better than several of the others that I've tried.
Two of the most important 'requirements' are that it's auto-ranging. I've had too many problems with people who could not get their meter on the correct range.
Another requirement is that it must not read DC as AC. Too many cheap meters will read 12v DC as a significant AC voltage when the meter is set to AC voltage but connected to a DC source. This interferes with readings where you need to see if there is AC voltage on a point where where there is a DC bias (like on the drains of the power supply FETs).
The meter also needs to be relatively fast. Most cheap auto-ranging meters take about 1 second to step through each range. If it has to step through 5 ranges, that's 5 seconds per reading. That's extremely annoying. The meter shouldn't take more than a second to read the value of a resistor. This one takes longer than 1 second but it's better than several of the others that I've tried.
For everyday use, I'd recommend a used Fluke 10, 11 or 12. Unless you need the extra features of the 87, there's no point in buying it. The 10, 11 or 12 are MUCH better for everyday repair work. I have 3 Fluke 87s (original, III and V) and they are generally in storage.
what u think of these? i have one but never turned it on got it free. it might be useful for new people.
DY294 Digital Transistor Tester | eBay
DY294 Digital Transistor Tester | eBay
I wouldn't buy one and I wouldn't recommend that anyone else buy one. I've been doing this for 25+ years and haven't needed one yet. For transistor faults that you can't find with your meter, I'd recommend a curve tracer (something like THIS). For most car amp repair, transistors are so cheap and readily available that you just replace it if you're not sure whether it's good or not.
Looks to me like this is a copy of the Victor VC97. It is a very cheap one (even by Chinese standards) so I'd not expect great reliability. The online price here in China is $15 whereas the original (which doesn't look as stylish) is about 30% more.
look at
EEVblog #99 - $100 Multimeter Shootout - Extech Amprobe BK Precision Ideal UEi Uni-T PART 1of2 - YouTube=
and
EEVblog #99 - $100 Multimeter Shootout - Extech Amprobe BK Precision Ideal UEi Uni-T PART 2of2 - YouTube=
or
EEVblog #91 - $50 Multimeter Shootout - Extech EX330, Amprobe AM220, Elenco, Vichy VC99, GS Pro-50 - YouTube=
for cheaper units
EEVblog #99 - $100 Multimeter Shootout - Extech Amprobe BK Precision Ideal UEi Uni-T PART 1of2 - YouTube=
and
EEVblog #99 - $100 Multimeter Shootout - Extech Amprobe BK Precision Ideal UEi Uni-T PART 2of2 - YouTube=
or
EEVblog #91 - $50 Multimeter Shootout - Extech EX330, Amprobe AM220, Elenco, Vichy VC99, GS Pro-50 - YouTube=
for cheaper units
I really like Dave but I wish he would say what he really thinks. It seems like he's holding back a bit. 🙂
I've used the VC97 a while and I wouldn't trade my Fluke 12 for 10 of the VC97s but I think it may still be a decent choice for someone who's main concern is the price. If it lasts at least a year, it works well enough to justify the $25-29 price. The Fluke 10, 11 and 12 are getting harder to find and are often quite expensive when you can find them.
I've used the VC97 a while and I wouldn't trade my Fluke 12 for 10 of the VC97s but I think it may still be a decent choice for someone who's main concern is the price. If it lasts at least a year, it works well enough to justify the $25-29 price. The Fluke 10, 11 and 12 are getting harder to find and are often quite expensive when you can find them.
I don't know why would he hold anything back, the way I know him, he says what he thinks. But on the other hand, if VC97 is in the 25$ range, then there is nothing to think about
This is my multimeter .... I know it's no big deal, but for now, I use ...
The man in the electronics shop, told me when I bought it, that's what most fans used and students of electronics, (cost me 25 euros = $ 32.70)
I would like your opinion
Also I have seen this fluke on ebay, see what you think ...
http://www.ebay.es/itm/150430427638?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Only when I have money to buy, like an oscilloscope, too ..
The man in the electronics shop, told me when I bought it, that's what most fans used and students of electronics, (cost me 25 euros = $ 32.70)
I would like your opinion
Also I have seen this fluke on ebay, see what you think ...
http://www.ebay.es/itm/150430427638?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Only when I have money to buy, like an oscilloscope, too ..
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I've never used the 17B. I'm sure it's a good meter but I don't know how well suited it is for repair work. The 10, 11 and 12 are absolutely the best that I've used for repair work. That's why I repeatedly recommend them.
I've found another issue with the VC97. If you are checking a circuit that has more than 1v on it (stored, remaining after power has been removed), the meter will read 0.000 on diode check which would seem to indicate that there is a short. It did this today when I was checking an FET from gate to drain. It appeared that it was shorted. I rechecked it with my 12 and it was not shorted.
I've found another issue with the VC97. If you are checking a circuit that has more than 1v on it (stored, remaining after power has been removed), the meter will read 0.000 on diode check which would seem to indicate that there is a short. It did this today when I was checking an FET from gate to drain. It appeared that it was shorted. I rechecked it with my 12 and it was not shorted.
These DMM's all look fine to me for any DIYer that wants something better than a $9.95 special. I'm not familiar with the Fluke model 17, but around US$100 is a good price. That's about what the 10 series cost when it was introduced 20 years ago.
Maybe it should also be mentioned... for a non-auto-range meter, start at the high range and work down for your accurate reading. This was an easy lesson to learn in the analog days (The needle would slam against the peg).
Maybe it should also be mentioned... for a non-auto-range meter, start at the high range and work down for your accurate reading. This was an easy lesson to learn in the analog days (The needle would slam against the peg).
But, Perry ... the fluke 10, 11 and 12 Are no longer manufactured? Right?
Then the VC97, is not a good option?
Then the VC97, is not a good option?
There is almost always a 10, 11 or 12 on eBay.
I'm looking for a meter that's acceptable for use by an amateur. If the meter has a few (known) issues, that's OK. One of the problems with helping others repair amps is that virtually all of them have cheap meters with various issues. If I can find a meter that works fairly well and most people can afford to buy it, that would save a lot of time and make it easier to get their amps repaired.
If no one can recommend a better (cheap) meter than the VC97 and if I don't see any problems that make it completely unsuitable, I'll recommend it. I don't like it but I like it better than most cheap meters.
I'm looking for a meter that's acceptable for use by an amateur. If the meter has a few (known) issues, that's OK. One of the problems with helping others repair amps is that virtually all of them have cheap meters with various issues. If I can find a meter that works fairly well and most people can afford to buy it, that would save a lot of time and make it easier to get their amps repaired.
If no one can recommend a better (cheap) meter than the VC97 and if I don't see any problems that make it completely unsuitable, I'll recommend it. I don't like it but I like it better than most cheap meters.
The 17B is genuine Fluke but targeted to the Chinese market officially. Its built like a Fluke indeed, can be had for $100 on line but no warranty outside China. Has HRC fuses, PTC, MOV protection parts. Has no true RMS, not sensitive continuity mode, screechy. No back light, accuracy spec is on the high side and auto range speed is rather slow as Flukes go. I would much rather an Agilent U1232A at $135.
Its very badly made, your finger won't fit flipping the stand even, very slow auto ranging, HFE socket is off, good accuracy. Its bulky posing the shape of a Fluke 179 for no reason. I recommend UNI-T UT-61E at $60. Much much better, true RMS, very fast auto ranging, and its a data logger also.
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