Heyy , just posted topic No: 2000 above !!
What's my surprise gift Mr. Hifimediy, a TC2000 controller ?? Ding , ding, ding ....😀
What's my surprise gift Mr. Hifimediy, a TC2000 controller ?? Ding , ding, ding ....😀
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Not sure this is a good idea, fully charged batteries tend to deliver more than their rated voltage. Also the bulk power cap on my board is rated 25V so 27.8V is over 10% more than its rating.
I think these boards are REALLY designed for low voltages. You might still get some good sound @ 24V with a T1 or T2 if cost/size is not an issue.
Should be no problem, as long as all parts specs are taken care of properly...
I have a TK2050 amplifier running at a voltage of 55V with no problems at all...
Should be no problem, as long as all parts specs are taken care of properly...
I have a TK2050 amplifier running at a voltage of 55V with no problems at all...
There are other parts on T1-M that have a max 24V rating.
There are other parts on T1-M that have a max 24V rating.
Which are?
Usually they are just some electrolytic caps, ceramic caps, and maybe a relay... Then adapt the voltage sensing, feedback and gain and you're good to go!🙄
Which are?
Usually they are just some electrolytic caps, ceramic caps, and maybe a relay... Then adapt the voltage sensing, feedback and gain and you're good to go!🙄
we use 25V electrolytic cap on board.
well, you got me going around in circles now. I resoldered the rp1 the first time around.
I have attached the picture of the PR1.
Is the controller chip maybe at fault or something else?
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It's strange to me too. The part seems ok from you photo.
Could you measure the wires from the resistor RP1 to the chip? I hope the trace is not broken.
What I can be sure now is that the output part is ok, so just focus on the TC2000 analog input part.
That's encouraging for me. 😀Heyy , just posted topic No: 2000 above !!
What's my surprise gift Mr. Hifimediy, a TC2000 controller ?? Ding , ding, ding ....😀
we use 25V electrolytic cap on board.
Cheers mate, but that's easy enough to fix then!

That's encouraging for me. 😀
So far so good your T Amps just only need a bit bass treatment. It would be also encouraging me to write more on the german Tripath Test page when I (or you ?) find a Modding solution. The page is launched some weeks ago and voila there are currently T1 and T2 (with input cap mods) introduced and a non-modded poppulse. The list will be continued.
What I can tell you that T1 with battery supply sounds damn good with 8 ohm speakers. But the solid state 2 x 40 Watts Creek 4330 is a real giant killer and obviously the T1 could not hold with the bass response. On the other hand the soundstage of T1 is far better. The T2 (Battery/SMPS) with small 8 Ohm speakers sounded a bit bass-shy and lightly unbalanced. Here indeed a pair of max. 6 ohms impedance speakers are recommended. We compare with good classic solid states. In nearly future the reference equipment will completed hopefully with a 845 tube amp.
LINK
Hi
Can you give as a link or web page about these tests from the "german Tripath Test page " .
Regards
Vassilis
Hi
Can you give as a link or web page about these tests from the "german Tripath Test page " .
Regards
Vassilis
So far so good your T Amps just only need a bit bass treatment. It would be also encouraging me to write more on the german Tripath Test page when I (or you ?) find a Modding solution. The page is launched some weeks ago and voila there are currently T1 and T2 (with input cap mods) introduced and a non-modded poppulse. The list will be continued.
What I can tell you that T1 with battery supply sounds damn good with 8 ohm speakers. But the solid state 2 x 40 Watts Creek 4330 is a real giant killer and obviously the T1 could not hold with the bass response. On the other hand the soundstage of T1 is far better. The T2 (Battery/SMPS) with small 8 Ohm speakers sounded a bit bass-shy and lightly unbalanced. Here indeed a pair of max. 6 ohms impedance speakers are recommended. We compare with good classic solid states. In nearly future the reference equipment will completed hopefully with a 845 tube amp.
Hi
Can you give as a link or web page about these tests from the "german Tripath Test page " .
Regards
Vassilis
isn't it visible at the bottom (my signature) ...😕 That would be strange or maybe your browser settings 😕
So far so good your T Amps just only need a bit bass treatment. It would be also encouraging me to write more on the german Tripath Test page when I (or you ?) find a Modding solution. The page is launched some weeks ago and voila there are currently T1 and T2 (with input cap mods) introduced and a non-modded poppulse. The list will be continued.
What I can tell you that T1 with battery supply sounds damn good with 8 ohm speakers. But the solid state 2 x 40 Watts Creek 4330 is a real giant killer and obviously the T1 could not hold with the bass response. On the other hand the soundstage of T1 is far better. The T2 (Battery/SMPS) with small 8 Ohm speakers sounded a bit bass-shy and lightly unbalanced. Here indeed a pair of max. 6 ohms impedance speakers are recommended. We compare with good classic solid states. In nearly future the reference equipment will completed hopefully with a 845 tube amp.
I've read somewhere on this threat about improving the bass response by replacing the inductors with Wurth. I have bought those wurth inductors, but been busy with other project, no time yet to play around with my T1. But I've replaced the input caps into PIO K75 and it can increase the bass response.
But I agree, with the price & simplicity hifimediy tripaths are hard to beat. Throw in some DIYers craziness and they will become great amps.
I'm behind a proxy server which has some weird behaviour.
isn't it visible at the bottom (my signature) ...😕 That would be strange or maybe your browser settings 😕
I've read somewhere on this threat about improving the bass response by replacing the inductors with Wurth. I have bought those wurth inductors, but been busy with other project, no time yet to play around with my T1. But I've replaced the input caps into PIO K75 and it can increase the bass response.
But I agree, with the price & simplicity hifimediy tripaths are hard to beat. Throw in some DIYers craziness and they will become great amps.
that sounds very promising. Looking forward to your results with the new inductors.
Does anyone know where to get a pair of speaker protection relays for a T1 V1.2?
cheers,
col.
>the relay's died?
>sorry we don't stock them.
>-----------------
>Hifimediy | Tripath amps
>Hifimediy Forums
>On Feb 15, 2012, at 6:58 AM, col wrote:
>[Hide Quoted Text]
> From: col <xxxxxx@xxxxxxx.xxx>
> Subject: T1 V1.2 speaker protection relays blown
>
> Message Body:
> Hi,
>
> Is it possible to buy a pair of speaker protection relays for a T1.2? Mine died a few days ago.
>
> regards,
> col.
>
> --
> This mail is sent via contact form on Hifimediy Index of /wordpress
cheers,
col.
>the relay's died?
>sorry we don't stock them.
>-----------------
>Hifimediy | Tripath amps
>Hifimediy Forums
>On Feb 15, 2012, at 6:58 AM, col wrote:
>[Hide Quoted Text]
> From: col <xxxxxx@xxxxxxx.xxx>
> Subject: T1 V1.2 speaker protection relays blown
>
> Message Body:
> Hi,
>
> Is it possible to buy a pair of speaker protection relays for a T1.2? Mine died a few days ago.
>
> regards,
> col.
>
> --
> This mail is sent via contact form on Hifimediy Index of /wordpress
1 set Speaker protection board DIY kit | eBay
I believe these T1 boards are bridged, so you'll need one board for each channel
I believe these T1 boards are bridged, so you'll need one board for each channel
I believe these are hongfa JQC-3FF 24V relays
JQC-3FF-24 - SPDT 24V 5A PCB Relay
probably other vendors 24V relays would fit.
how did you blow the relays ????
JQC-3FF-24 - SPDT 24V 5A PCB Relay
probably other vendors 24V relays would fit.
how did you blow the relays ????
1 set Speaker protection board DIY kit | eBay
I believe these T1 boards are bridged, so you'll need one board for each channel
I don't want to add boards I want to replace the relays. However, those look quite similar. Maybe buying something like that would be a easier way to obtain the relays.
cheers,
col.
I just built this kit for another project !I don't want to add boards I want to replace the relays. However, those look quite similar. Maybe buying something like that would be a easier way to obtain the relays.
cheers,
col.
The relays are a few milimeters larger than the T1/T2 stock. They won't fit the board.
actually, maybe it's the power relay that's blown. This is the T1 V1.2 from the batch that had the faulty relays. Iv'e been running it under 24v and it has been fine up until last week.
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