In my past projects, I have been a big fan of using tung oil as a finish. I really like what it does with the grain.
On my current project, however, I would like something a bit more durable and I would like a semi-gloss finish. All of my tung oil finishes have come out very flat looking.
I have read that applying polyurethane over tung oil is a very bad idea, but that is basically what I am looking for. I want the look of an oil finish, but with a hard, semigloss shell over the top of it.
Any thoughts?
On my current project, however, I would like something a bit more durable and I would like a semi-gloss finish. All of my tung oil finishes have come out very flat looking.
I have read that applying polyurethane over tung oil is a very bad idea, but that is basically what I am looking for. I want the look of an oil finish, but with a hard, semigloss shell over the top of it.
Any thoughts?
I've heard that using wax over tung oil is a good way to get some sheen. I haven't tried it though. I can't remember what sort of wax though.... carnubua perhaps...
I used howards orange tung oil (it is blended with orange oil) and it initially was very smooth and had a nice sheen, but iit became rough and dull after a few weeks. Still looks nice though 🙂
Tony.
I used howards orange tung oil (it is blended with orange oil) and it initially was very smooth and had a nice sheen, but iit became rough and dull after a few weeks. Still looks nice though 🙂
Tony.
The wood is walnut-veneered plywood.
I have tried wax over tung oil. Maybe I just suck at it, but after several applications it didn't look much different. Your experience with tung oil matches mine. It looks great when it's wet, then dulls a bit after it dries, then it looks really flat after a couple of weeks. I love the color and the grain, I just want it to be shiny.
I'll look into Formby's, thanks.
I have tried wax over tung oil. Maybe I just suck at it, but after several applications it didn't look much different. Your experience with tung oil matches mine. It looks great when it's wet, then dulls a bit after it dries, then it looks really flat after a couple of weeks. I love the color and the grain, I just want it to be shiny.
I'll look into Formby's, thanks.
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Oil finishes generally will not provide a lasting deep gloss or sheen because they tend to soak into the wood surface and are not building a solid layer of finish with depth. That also makes it easier to repair or restore an oil finish by wiping on an additional coat. A finish I like to use because it combines the ease of application of oil finishes with the ability to create a deep finish layer is Minwax Wipe-On Polyurethane. It is easy to apply with a lint free cloth and will build to a deep solid finish with 4 to 6 coats. I don't think it provides quite the vibrant grain pop of fresh tung oil but it retains a deep luster permanently, unlike tung.
I'm not a big fan of oil finishes myself - on speaker cabinet or furniture (i.e, 40yr old Teak dining room suite) - how about varnish or lacquer in satin sheen ( i.e. between 25-30 degree sheen) ?
For durability polyurethanes are great, and are available from dull to high gloss, but I've generally found they impart an unnatural "plastic laminate" look to solid wood or veneers - a conversion varnish or catalyzed lacquer gives a more natural finish, whether material is stained or not - they can really help pop the figuring / depth and coloring of grain, and except for damage repair won't need any maintenance. While I happen to have access to spray facilities, they certainly can be brushed.
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I like shellac with wax over it. Shellac dries quickly and is easy to wipe on. dewaxed flakes are available here:
Shellac
get some dewaxed ultra pale and some dewaxed garnet. Make a dilute solution and apply it by wiping it on. The garnet shellac will richen the look of the walnut, but if used by itself may be too dark. Don't play with it too much....a quick wipe with the grain and move on. It will dry almost instantly. After a few coats a bit of finish will start to build up. let it dry for a few hours and then go at it with 0000 steel wool and some paste wax. The wool will smooth the finish out and using the wax as a lubricant you will be left with a nice even sheen. This is one of the quickest nicest finishes you can apply. A plus is that if you don't like it you can remove it with alcohol.
Shellac
get some dewaxed ultra pale and some dewaxed garnet. Make a dilute solution and apply it by wiping it on. The garnet shellac will richen the look of the walnut, but if used by itself may be too dark. Don't play with it too much....a quick wipe with the grain and move on. It will dry almost instantly. After a few coats a bit of finish will start to build up. let it dry for a few hours and then go at it with 0000 steel wool and some paste wax. The wool will smooth the finish out and using the wax as a lubricant you will be left with a nice even sheen. This is one of the quickest nicest finishes you can apply. A plus is that if you don't like it you can remove it with alcohol.
Watco Danish oil is extremely forgiving and easy to apply. It comes in everything from clear to walnut. Danish oil penetrates, but not very deeply. Watco makes a complementary Wipe-On Poly that gives a nice satin finish. You can steel wool it and put on a second coat within a day. If you want a tint, you can use the Danish oil underneath. If not, the Wipe-On Poly can be used by itself.
The manufacturer is Waterlox.
The manufacturer is Waterlox.
Preiter, evanc obviously knows what he's talking about -- beautiful furniture, Evan -- I would just add one thing: While I start with Evan's shellac, for a more durable finish, I then will brush on 3-4 coats of varnish. I use Pratt & Lambert #38 clear alkyd varnish. I sand between coats with progressively finer paper. What this means is I can sand out brush marks or dust from the previous coat. The last coat is thinned about 15% with mineral spirits (ignore the label’s injunction against thinning). This means virtually no brush marks on the last coat. You can then use the steel wool for a satin finish or continue to sand from 600 grit on up for a gloss finish. It’s work, yes, but for those without a spray booth it makes for a good looking result.
Regards,
George
Regards,
George
GOR3...thanks.
JTW....I agree Waterlox is an excellent product.
Waterlox handmade tung oil wood sealer finish protection for floors, countertops, furniture, cabinets, outdoor, marine applications
Thinned with mineral spirits it wipes on nicely. It can be used over shellac or by itself. As far as durability I would not use shellac on kitchen cabinets or counter tops, but for most applications it is more then durable enough. The fact that it dries fast and is not that toxic as it dries is a huge plus. If you go for the varnish after you wipe on a few coats I would cut it back with 0000 steel wool lubricated with mineral spirits, or your thinned varnish. After about week of drying the Waterlox can be polished with the steel wool and wax method for a beautiful finish.
Evan
JTW....I agree Waterlox is an excellent product.
Waterlox handmade tung oil wood sealer finish protection for floors, countertops, furniture, cabinets, outdoor, marine applications
Thinned with mineral spirits it wipes on nicely. It can be used over shellac or by itself. As far as durability I would not use shellac on kitchen cabinets or counter tops, but for most applications it is more then durable enough. The fact that it dries fast and is not that toxic as it dries is a huge plus. If you go for the varnish after you wipe on a few coats I would cut it back with 0000 steel wool lubricated with mineral spirits, or your thinned varnish. After about week of drying the Waterlox can be polished with the steel wool and wax method for a beautiful finish.
Evan
I recently finished a project and tried a water based polyurethane product that I loved! It was a semi gloss finish but it had a nice wet look. The wood (now 6 months later) still looks like I coated it in clear ice. The surface it produces it really durable too.
The brand I used was called Vermont Natural coatings and it was called a "poly whey". The best thing about it was it basically had very little odour while drying.
The brand I used was called Vermont Natural coatings and it was called a "poly whey". The best thing about it was it basically had very little odour while drying.
IMO, you're already using the right stuff. What you want is a highly modified tung oil finish like Formby's. They sell it in satin and gloss. The gloss will give you a good gloss, but you have to use enough coats of it. Six or eight coats over a period of several days at the very least, and good surface prep so it's smooth to begin with. I can't remember what I've done between coats to level it, but probably steel wool- check that. What I like about tung oil is you can always freshen the finish or fix damage without the repair showing at all. It's also very durable. Plain tung oil is one step above linseed oil, but not nearly as good a performer as the modified stuff. Above someone mentioned varnish, but I think they also use driers and other stuff.
Use "real" varnish. Not poly, not water based. It takes time to do a good job. First you apply a thin coat let it dry 100% which might take two days. Then you sand half the thickness off with #320 paper on a block. Apply another coat, sand and finally after 4 or so coats the grain is filled in and you have a flat surface.
If you want a semi gloss sand the last coat with #1200 wet and dry paper over a sponge
The key is to sand off abuot 1/2 of each coat so the end product is a flat as window glass. Varnish when hard is very tough but don't rush get each coat time to dry or it will clog up the paper when you sand it.
The best quality varnish is sold are marine hardware stores (Like West Marine) but is costs $30+ a quart there. The stuff at Home Depot is OK for indoor use. Buy the best brush you can find and clean it well after each use, the brush cleaning take as long as the varnishing.
If you want a gloss finish put on the last coat very thin with a foam brush then just toss the brush out. You might do this just for fun or to see if you like gloss finish. Then if not use the #1200 wet-n-dry paper to dull it down
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