Hey- been following this some...and I can't figure out something..... and this is a bit of a step backward- I've read this through a few times but still don't see the confirmation.
Where is there confirmation that the original contactor in the photo on post #8 is 120v?
In the photo, there is no voltage "letter" visible after the part number as is mentioned in the original GE industrial catalog.
And to me anyway- the 2nd part number and link is to a different contactor, so it is not confirmation of the original coil voltage.
But you do have the over working -
I'm just curious
thanks
Where is there confirmation that the original contactor in the photo on post #8 is 120v?
In the photo, there is no voltage "letter" visible after the part number as is mentioned in the original GE industrial catalog.
And to me anyway- the 2nd part number and link is to a different contactor, so it is not confirmation of the original coil voltage.
But you do have the over working -
I'm just curious
thanks
Ohh I guess there is no confirmation that it was 120V...I just looked at a link to a Contactor that was on grainger that I thought was the same as the one I had and it said coil volts:120
So I assumed that was why the GE part melted. I guess it could have been a 240v cool
And just burned for other reasons as stated...brown out, vibration, other heat source etc.
So I assumed that was why the GE part melted. I guess it could have been a 240v cool
And just burned for other reasons as stated...brown out, vibration, other heat source etc.
For the overheating motor, the uf rating might be too high for the motor which would cause it to overheat. Try a smaller value. Is the motor thermaling out and stopping? For the coil, that is simply overvoltage. Good find on that. If yu said it was serviced then possibly the wrong part was installed. Also, ensure that he neutral is not disconnected or has a poor connection in the unit.
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The neutral is connected securely and grounds go throughout the oven to the motor, board, heating coil etc. but I don't think there was a neutral on the Contactor. Actually I'm sure there wasn't. Should there be??
The motor hasn't stopped when it was running in my possession. I ran it on separate occasions but not for more than 30 mins at once. When I go in to work tomorrow I'll see how the oven ran today.....I'll report back
The motor hasn't stopped when it was running in my possession. I ran it on separate occasions but not for more than 30 mins at once. When I go in to work tomorrow I'll see how the oven ran today.....I'll report back
If the coil on the contactor is rated at 120 volts and about 230 volts is applied to it, it will likely fail immediately. If you installed the wrong replacement part that can happen. Best to check the voltage across the coil with a volt meter even if the coil isn't operating. Most appliances such as dishwashers, dryers, washing machines come with a wiring diagram in it. My Hotpoint dryer for example had one in an envelope on the inside of the control panel housing. You can also order replacement parts from the manufacturer or on line from generic parts suppliers usually just by entering the manufacturer's name and model number of the appliance on their form. This will give you the exact part you need if they carry it. Picking out a "guess" from a Grainger catalog is very risky, it is likely the wrong part. Best to bring the original factory installed part with you to a Grainger or other store and let them match it for you.
I tested voltage across the coil..236 volts. So I got a 240 volt coil
The only thing the Contactor supplies power to is the heating coil. It's a Corel 3 turn coil. The coil said 2500 watts max on it (going off memory) The Corel 5 turn coil is rated at 3300 watts.
I chose a 12 amp Contactor at 240 volts. So it's safe to assume I chose an over rated part....
The only thing the Contactor supplies power to is the heating coil. It's a Corel 3 turn coil. The coil said 2500 watts max on it (going off memory) The Corel 5 turn coil is rated at 3300 watts.
I chose a 12 amp Contactor at 240 volts. So it's safe to assume I chose an over rated part....
It does not mean that you have the right coil, even if you have a wrong coil you still will measure the full voltage over the coil, because it is the voltage applied...
You only can be sure by checking the model nr on the coil/motor or a description of the voltage on the coil/motor itself.
Your relay replacement seems fine, but I would worry about the motor running hot. The failure mode can be expensive. If you know the horsepower rating from the name plate you can check the current draw and even look up what size capacitor should be connected.
OkAy once they get the new oven I'll take the old one back and figure out the motor situation.
I understood that you were now sure you had the right coil trough the fact that you measured 236Volts over it, by your answer it is obviously not, so just disregard my previous post 😉
The 2500 watt coil will draw 10.4 amps at 240 volts. A 12 amp contactor was a poor choice especially since this contactor will be subject to radiant or conduced heat. That will de-rate it. Choose a contactor that is at least 20 amps. 30 is even safer. I don't know how hot the contactor will get due to its proximity to the heating coil or the temperature the contactor will stabalize at due to thermal conductivity of the wires. Best to be on the safer side.
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