John Curl's Blowtorch preamplifier part II

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I might be useful to note that not everyone is completely happy with zip cord for speaker wire, and many alternative approaches have been applied to seeing if it can be 'bettered' subjectively.
KBK has tried the 'liquid metal' approach, apparently with some success. People I know, rave about his cables, so he must be on to something that many of us have ignored, usually from inertia and 'in the box' thinking that keeps us from trying anything so radical. I, personally, can't afford them, so I will stick to my Enid Lumley personally selected Cardas speaker cables, that I am listening to at this time. I could do better, perhaps, but at what price?
 
But are they up on Jenga blocks?
You could be joking, but I would seriously consider that wood is rather conductive when it comes to electromagnetic fields. ... at least I am seeing some rather interesting effects when wood is placed near (but still insulated from) capacitive plates that are carrying sine wave signals. Everything that I can find in a quick Google search implies that wood should be inert, and yet something as innocuous as a single chop stick has an effect on the capacitive sensing circuit that I was testing. This makes me think that a Jenga block might not be any more inert than a chop stick.
 
... at least I am seeing some rather interesting effects when wood is placed near (but still insulated from) capacitive plates that are carrying sine wave signals. Everything that I can find in a quick Google search implies that wood should be inert, and yet something as innocuous as a single chop stick has an effect on the capacitive sensing circuit that I was testing. This makes me think that a Jenga block might not be any more inert than a chop stick.

8 ohms?

edit: I see Bonsai beat me to it.
 
You could be joking, but I would seriously consider that wood is rather conductive when it comes to electromagnetic fields. ... at least I am seeing some rather interesting effects when wood is placed near (but still insulated from) capacitive plates that are carrying sine wave signals. Everything that I can find in a quick Google search implies that wood should be inert, and yet something as innocuous as a single chop stick has an effect on the capacitive sensing circuit that I was testing. This makes me think that a Jenga block might not be any more inert than a chop stick.

No I'm not serious but some are. Chardas sells myrtle blocks for this. It's an old joke from a few months ago. I suggested Jenga blocks because you could at least play with them if they didn't "do their stuff". Same with using brilliant pebbles to play Mancala.

There are stud finders that work on the dielectric constant of the wood.
 
The people that I work with in hi end design do NOT throw money at something, just because it is expensive. IF there is a cost effective alternative, THAT WORKS AS WELL, they will use it. IF copper always worked as good as silver, for example, they would use copper exclusively. However, IF they try silver and it DOES sound better, then they would use it.
Perhaps, 50 years ago, KBK would have used Mercury instead of what he uses. It was available, not wetting, and probably somewhat cheaper. However, today, to do what HE wants to do, he has to pay the price and pass it on to the consumer.
Jack Bybee has the same problem.
When he makes a Bybee Purifier, he offers 3 lead choices: Copperweld, Silver, or Gold.
I would presume that the parts come standard with Copperweld, because that is what the military/industrial people would prefer for ruggedness.
Then, he has to remove the leads to add either silver or gold, by paying someone to laser weld them on. (added solder contacts would not be good) He has to pay someone else to do this, as he does not have his own laser welder.
Now the price skyrockets! And people complain. YET, they still prefer the sound of the Gold leads over both the Silver or the Copperweld leads. Are they crazy? I'm sure that many of you here, think so, but I doubt it.
Generally, quality components cost money to make, because of both the extra time and materials to produce them. However, they are still successful in the marketplace IF they perform better than they typical rough equivalent, and are worth it to those who have more money than they need for mere existence (count me out on this). That is why Jack Bybee drives a Bentley. It is worth it to him.
 
What I try to contribute here is the lessons that we have learned in hi end audio design that often can be applied to DIY audio. For example, you can spend just as much time and trouble to make a 'poor' design as you might spend with a better one.
I am continuously attacked for giving these ideas here, (for free), as if I was saying something wrong. I can't help it IF not everyone can have highest audio quality for $39.
If I could make a quality loudspeaker cabinet with packing material, or an orange crate, I would gladly do so. Ever try it?
 
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