Hello everybody,
So while I was going to throw away an tape deck from the 80's I decided to desolder its components and maybe someday give them a try.
Since I couldn't find info about some of the components I ask you experts:
What about the first two grey components from left to right, what they are ?
Those caps named ICO are film caps, right ? Are them good to go ?
I read that electrolytic caps do age faster than ceramic and film caps and can leak due to corrosion or voltage. What about caps that have been used for 5 years and been resting for something like 25 years ?
Are those components worth of a new life on tripath based amps or should I just donate them ?
Thank You all in advance
So while I was going to throw away an tape deck from the 80's I decided to desolder its components and maybe someday give them a try.
Since I couldn't find info about some of the components I ask you experts:
What about the first two grey components from left to right, what they are ?
Those caps named ICO are film caps, right ? Are them good to go ?
I read that electrolytic caps do age faster than ceramic and film caps and can leak due to corrosion or voltage. What about caps that have been used for 5 years and been resting for something like 25 years ?
Are those components worth of a new life on tripath based amps or should I just donate them ?
Thank You all in advance
They are inductive components, inductors, tapped inductors, or transformers.Hello everybody,
So while I was going to throw away an tape deck from the 80's I decided to desolder its components and maybe someday give them a try.
Since I couldn't find info about some of the components I ask you experts:
What about the first two grey components from left to right, what they are ?
The first one seems to be marked 273J, that would be a simple 27mH inductor.
The other is more complex, it is probably a transformer of the eraser oscillator
Yeah, mylars, as good as new.
That's trickier. I wouldn't use them in any new project.
You could use them to make quick and dirty prototypes, or check how safe is a circuit, etc, but simply reusing them would be looking for troubles, unless you have sufficiently sophisticated means of testing at your disposal.
Note that relatively large caps like these that have not been stressed thermally or electrically could be in perfect condition, but it is difficult to guess simply by inspection.
Throw the electros in the trash, not worth taking a chance with them since new ones are so cheap.
Agree with the above, the ICO caps are as good as new, but I'd toss the electrolytics. I'd especially toss the 1000uF/16V cap as it falls into a category of high capacity, low voltage electrolytics that fail more often than the two on the right. Actually I'd put the two on the right in my "floor sweepings & bench clean up" box for use in experiments, but would never install them in anything permanent.
Elvee
I've already used the film caps on a cheap ta8201ak based amp that had tiny ceramic caps all around. That did made a huge difference in the sound quality, not hi-fi but much better than it was before.
I am a newbie on all that electronic stuff so I enjoyed alot the results.
I cannot share the sound experience before and after the modifications but I can always add some pics:
before:
after:
Thank you all for the directions provided .
I've already used the film caps on a cheap ta8201ak based amp that had tiny ceramic caps all around. That did made a huge difference in the sound quality, not hi-fi but much better than it was before.
I am a newbie on all that electronic stuff so I enjoyed alot the results.
I cannot share the sound experience before and after the modifications but I can always add some pics:
before:
after:
Thank you all for the directions provided .
I have a few more parts and I hope you guys don't mind to give me a hand here.
The "tropical fish" cap is better in any applications than the nowdays film caps ? I read that they are good for guitar amps but what about the output stage of class-D chip amps ?
That silver thing with 330n 250 (volts ? ) marked on it. Is this a kind of cap? Good or should I get rid of em ?
The red thing with 4.7 35v marked on it is a cap ? 4.7n, pf or uf ? Good to go ?
The silver cylindrical one with MIAL 27000k marked. I don't have a clue on what is this. Good ?
Thank You so much
The "tropical fish" cap is better in any applications than the nowdays film caps ? I read that they are good for guitar amps but what about the output stage of class-D chip amps ?
That silver thing with 330n 250 (volts ? ) marked on it. Is this a kind of cap? Good or should I get rid of em ?
The red thing with 4.7 35v marked on it is a cap ? 4.7n, pf or uf ? Good to go ?
The silver cylindrical one with MIAL 27000k marked. I don't have a clue on what is this. Good ?
Thank You so much
The "tropical fish" or "flag" capacitor is a 100nF/250V 10% mylar type (there are also some rare series made of polycarbonate).
The 330n is a Siemens MKH (or MKM if it is greenish) mylar (or polycarbonate if MKM). Rather fragile construction, pins fall off easily, little protection against contaminants.
The 4.7µF/35V is a classic "tantal drop"
The 4µ7/63V is a standard Al elco, useless
The last one is a "Styroflex" (polystyrène) of 27nF 10%.
Good for high quality filters if undamaged.
The 330n is a Siemens MKH (or MKM if it is greenish) mylar (or polycarbonate if MKM). Rather fragile construction, pins fall off easily, little protection against contaminants.
The 4.7µF/35V is a classic "tantal drop"
The 4µ7/63V is a standard Al elco, useless
The last one is a "Styroflex" (polystyrène) of 27nF 10%.
Good for high quality filters if undamaged.
Or "Liquorice Allsorts" type as we always referred to them.
Strange all my years in the trade and never heard them called "tropical fish"
As others have said, passive components are so cheap in the scheme of things that it makes sense to use new for any serious project.
Have you ever heard of "pin-up" capacitors? 😀
And the "yellow block" (AKA "toffee" I think)?
Here are two examples: bottom is the "pin-up" capacitor (self explanatory, I think), and top is the yellow block/toffee/golden nugget/mepolesco capacitor
Attachments
I'm glad you live in a big city and drive or tube by an electronics store frequently. If I want anything more complicated than a cell phone battery, shipping is $7-10. When one is repairing instead of building new, it is hard to predict what you will need next. I keep plastic film caps, ceramic caps, and all in-tolerance resistors, in bags by decade. Electrolytics under 5 years old I keep, but I date them.
The stuff I repair has a lot of paper caps, so any film cap is an improvement, mostly. Same with the carbon comp resistors, vs any metal film or carbon film.
Of course, you might say, I am not serious about anything. If it produces less distortion than my speakers, it is in.
I have almost the same problem. If I want any Xing Ling low quality component I need to drive atleast 250 km and if I'm in need of anything like an WIMA MKA 3.3uf 63v there is only one store in my country that I am able to purchase it from ( Farnell Neward ) and it costs USD 25,00. 😡
Thank you again Elvee, you are like the oracle of electronic components.😎
Thanks... seen those in years gone by.
Fair comment...
I am lucky and within easy (18 miles/25min) driving distance of CPC (part of Farnell) which is handy. I think anyone with a serious interest in electronics gathers lots of parts and bits and pieces... I know I used too. Have to be a bit ruthless clearing out sometimes.
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