I am building a series of active loudspeaker projects. Each speaker has a AC power on switch. Currently I am using a small DPST rocker switch, rated to 10A, and without indicator light, that I can get at RadioShack. It works pretty well, but I am looking for alternatives that might be of a little higher quality.
The main requirement is the the switch body must be able to be mounted in a round thru hole, in a 1/4" thick panel. This makes it easy for me to use a drill press to create the mounting hole in the material that I use for my rear panel.
Here is a link to and a picture of what I am using now:
16A 125V or 10A 250V DPST AC On/Off Round Rocker Switch - RadioShack.com
-Charlie
The main requirement is the the switch body must be able to be mounted in a round thru hole, in a 1/4" thick panel. This makes it easy for me to use a drill press to create the mounting hole in the material that I use for my rear panel.
Here is a link to and a picture of what I am using now:
16A 125V or 10A 250V DPST AC On/Off Round Rocker Switch - RadioShack.com
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
-Charlie
Mouser: (and I am sure similar selections live at Digikey, Allied, Newark, etc.)
All round body for round hole
Snap-in mount
540-rra32h3fbbnn $1.45
103-R13-244C-02-EV $1.88 (up to 3mm panel)
Threaded body
612-RR3130B $4.19 6mm panel (http://spec.e-switch.com/F-D/F130415C.pdf)
112-R13-130B $2.21
There are probably others.
All round body for round hole
Snap-in mount
540-rra32h3fbbnn $1.45
103-R13-244C-02-EV $1.88 (up to 3mm panel)
Threaded body
612-RR3130B $4.19 6mm panel (http://spec.e-switch.com/F-D/F130415C.pdf)
112-R13-130B $2.21
There are probably others.
Enzo,
THANKS!!! I just discovered the Shin Chin R13-130B-05-BB threaded body at Mouser and came back here to post about it. It can be mounted in a panel that is up to 6mm thick, has on/off markings ("O" and "|") on the rocker, and mounts in an 18mm diameter hole. Not expensive either. I think I have my new favorite switch!
-Charlie
And I note the e-switch right above it in my post looks similar, and the two companys' part numbers have a resemblance too. SO I wonder if one makes the part for the other, or if the SHin folks are making knockoffs. Still, at half the price, I'd sure try the SHins first and see if they work well. Mouser doesn;t usually sell crap.
I have a feeling niether of those snap-ins would fit your thick panel, but if they did, I'd consider them. For assembly, snap-ins poke right in from outside. DOn;t have to get a nut over the back and tighten it. And nuts can work loose too. And snap- ins can be wired with slack while still out of the hole, then snapped in. The threaded must be mounted first, then wired. (Or at least the nut has to go around the wires first)
I have a feeling niether of those snap-ins would fit your thick panel, but if they did, I'd consider them. For assembly, snap-ins poke right in from outside. DOn;t have to get a nut over the back and tighten it. And nuts can work loose too. And snap- ins can be wired with slack while still out of the hole, then snapped in. The threaded must be mounted first, then wired. (Or at least the nut has to go around the wires first)
I can't use a snap-in, because (A) my panel is 1/4" (6mm) thick, and (B) it's made of a wood product sometimes called hardboard, sort of like sawdust and resin mixed and pressed under high pressure in to flat sheets. I often use this in place of the typical aluminum panel, because I can get it locally, cut to size, and it is easy to drill round holes in it. So all my connectors need round holes - power, fuse, line level signal, and of course the on/off switch!
It took me a while to figure out how to get a round AC main power connector. I ended up using a Neutrik PowerCon for that purpose, even though it is not advertised as suitable for mains connections. It can handle the US AC voltage and the current demands of my projects, so why not?
-Charlie
Just thinking, would your situation be able to consider mounting these things on a small metal plate, which would be then mounted over - or behind - a cutout in the cabinet?
Just like many speaker cabinets are cut to mount the jack plate in back. Assembly would be easy too, since you could mount the Fuse holder, switch, AC inlet all on one small plate sitting at a bench, then screw that to the cabinet.
I have also made such sub-panels from plexiglass, with good results. Black looks nice.
I realize I am sitting here redesigning your product, so take it as just idle thought.
Just like many speaker cabinets are cut to mount the jack plate in back. Assembly would be easy too, since you could mount the Fuse holder, switch, AC inlet all on one small plate sitting at a bench, then screw that to the cabinet.
I have also made such sub-panels from plexiglass, with good results. Black looks nice.
I realize I am sitting here redesigning your product, so take it as just idle thought.
I thought about something like that, but for me it would just be extra steps and expenses. At this time everything I need can mount in a round hole of one size or another, and I can easily place a thru hole wherever I need it using my drill press.
Charlie
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