No, it's an OEM product now. You can still buy it. You just have to buy a certain quantity.
Incidentally I was just looking at the miniDSP last night!
But it really isn't needed in the AMP9 Basic paired with NTX3711 Piezo Tweeters and HP-10Ws, right?
I have been playing with the idea of implementing the Apple Universal Dock into the Boominator, so you can dock your iPod / iPhone to get both sound and recharge them at the same time. It also comes with the Apple Remote so you can change song and adjust the volume. Quite nifty.
Oh, and I just ordered 20 of those NTX3711 Piezo Tweeters, if anyone also need them? Total price including shipping and import taxes amount to around 500 DKR, so it will be something along the line of 100 DKR for 4 (500 DKR / 20 pieces = 25 DKR per tweeter * 4 = 100 DKR excl. shipping within Denmark / EU). No profiteering here
Will know the final price when ShopUSA receives the package, so just give me a holler if you need any.
Great idea witch i also had last summer but in lack of time i ended up with a cigarette socket. When i charge and play music at the same time i get some really nasty groundloops. You hear the charging through the speakers like a pulsating hum. Solve this and it would be a perfect idéa"=) I think one of the reasons this is very significant in my system is that my feedback resistors are 100Kohm.
Thats what i tought. I will order this right away and se if it helps: MINI 3.5MM NOISE FILTER GROUND LOOP ISOLATOR CAR AUDIO | eBay.
I hope the 1.3db gain doesn´t give me problems with to high gain thou but that will show.
I hope the 1.3db gain doesn´t give me problems with to high gain thou but that will show.
I have 2 miniDSP:s at home, would be fun to try one of them out and maybe using 2 Lepai amps instead of 1. Would you say having a filter (passive or active with miniDSP) makes a big difference in sound quality?
I only have experience of testing the woofers with a non air tight box and without tweeters so I cant really say anything about sound quality of the finished boominator yet.
I only have experience of testing the woofers with a non air tight box and without tweeters so I cant really say anything about sound quality of the finished boominator yet.
You can add a cap if you like but it would be a huge waste for it to be much more than 10-22mF. You have to remember that a large cap will drain the battery on each start up in a non-reversible process. And that we aren't dealing with ultra low frequencies here, and further it's battery powered which already is much more willing to give current than any SMPS.
Heeej igen.. Læser og læser i denne her tråd.
Jeg har købt 2 x Tripath TA2020 på ebay. Bare for at have en ekstra.
Jeg tror jeg vil bygge det originale Boominator design. Atlså 4xHP-10W og 4 Piezo.
tingene kan jeg sagtens sætte sammen. MEN hvordan faeeen skal den der kasse samles. Har ingen idé om hvordan man regner volumen ud?
Og hvor tæt skal HP-10W'erne sidde? skal magneterne sidder klods op ad hinanden eller hvordan?
Jeg har købt 2 x Tripath TA2020 på ebay. Bare for at have en ekstra.
Jeg tror jeg vil bygge det originale Boominator design. Atlså 4xHP-10W og 4 Piezo.
tingene kan jeg sagtens sætte sammen. MEN hvordan faeeen skal den der kasse samles. Har ingen idé om hvordan man regner volumen ud?
Og hvor tæt skal HP-10W'erne sidde? skal magneterne sidder klods op ad hinanden eller hvordan?
Please note. DIYaudio is a strictly english forum.
You can find sketchup drawings, pictures of how it's assembled, and every other information needed in this thread. Please read it from the beginning and mark down the post numbers of interest.
What kind of wires do you use from battery to amp?
I've read about having charger connected while running the boombox, but I can't remember what the demand is in order to do so?
Bought a Panasonic SLA 12V 7,2Ah, would this battery charger work?
Digital batteriladdare 12 V 4 A - Jula Postorder Online ? Handla på nätet
I've read about having charger connected while running the boombox, but I can't remember what the demand is in order to do so?
Bought a Panasonic SLA 12V 7,2Ah, would this battery charger work?
Digital batteriladdare 12 V 4 A - Jula Postorder Online ? Handla på nätet
Running the battery charger while you are drawing power from the battery is not a good idea for a number of reasons. Wire a switch that when in one position charges the battery and runs the boombox off a mains-powered regulated supply, and when in the other position, the mains power is off and the amp draws power from the battery.
Wiring diagram is attached. Four-pole, dual-throw switch is required, at least the way I did it.
--Buckapound
Wiring diagram is attached. Four-pole, dual-throw switch is required, at least the way I did it.
--Buckapound
Attachments
Oh that seems complicated... I think I will just discard the idea. However what solution do you have for switching between charging the battery and running the system? Seems complicated to open up the whole top everytime you want to change, or connect a mp3 for example.
Still wondering what kind of cable is used between amp and battery :S
Still wondering what kind of cable is used between amp and battery :S
I'm planning on making half a boominator, mostly because I want to be able to wear it like a backpack and be really portable. And of course I want to use the HP-10W but since I'm only gonna use two drivers I have to make some decisions.
Either parallel the drivers making them 4ohm and mono or using them in 8ohm and having stereo. What do u guys think is the best choice?
The second choice I have to make is wether I want to have them bi-polar/magnet-to-magnet as Saturnus design, or both drivers at the same side. Won't the stereo be really messed up if I go for #3 in the picture below since I won't hear the L and R side at the same time?
Either parallel the drivers making them 4ohm and mono or using them in 8ohm and having stereo. What do u guys think is the best choice?
The second choice I have to make is wether I want to have them bi-polar/magnet-to-magnet as Saturnus design, or both drivers at the same side. Won't the stereo be really messed up if I go for #3 in the picture below since I won't hear the L and R side at the same time?
Attachments
Complicated? Complicated? This is DIY Audio. Everything is complicated! That's why we're here. Every time you figure out something "complicated," you learn something, which I feel is a lot of the appeal of this hobby. People who want it simple, just buy stuff.
If you hook it up as I describe, all you have to do is flip a switch to go between battery and wall power. Or, as Saturnus suggests, you may be able to find a battery charger that can do both.
As far as wire, it's really not critical. Maybe 14-18 gauge stranded wire. You can use really heavy gauge wire, but it would only be for macho pride or something like that, as no matter what, that amp is not going to draw a lot of power, so it won't need a big manly wire.
--Buckapound
Hey, I was looking to do something similar a while back, but I didn't manage to get beyond the ideas stage.I'm planning on making half a boominator, mostly because I want to be able to wear it like a backpack and be really portable. And of course I want to use the HP-10W but since I'm only gonna use two drivers I have to make some decisions.
Either parallel the drivers making them 4ohm and mono or using them in 8ohm and having stereo. What do u guys think is the best choice?
The second choice I have to make is wether I want to have them bi-polar/magnet-to-magnet as Saturnus design, or both drivers at the same side. Won't the stereo be really messed up if I go for #3 in the picture below since I won't hear the L and R side at the same time?
I quite like the look of number 3 myself.
If you go for the amp 6, then I guess you could parallel the HP-10w's, and use a single channel to power the HP-10w's, and use a separate channel for the tweeters also in parallel. THis may get a little complex however, as you would need an active crossover, but you could also combine/sum the L&R channels also if you did go for an op-amp based active XO.
Going active should give better sound quality however, and greater efficiency also, as passive filter components reduce efficiency in most cases.
Hey, I was looking to do something similar a while back, but I didn't manage to get beyond the ideas stage.
I quite like the look of number 3 myself.
If you go for the amp 6, then I guess you could parallel the HP-10w's, and use a single channel to power the HP-10w's, and use a separate channel for the tweeters also in parallel. THis may get a little complex however, as you would need an active crossover, but you could also combine/sum the L&R channels also if you did go for an op-amp based active XO.
Going active should give better sound quality however, and greater efficiency also, as passive filter components reduce efficiency in most cases.
Let's hope I make it this time
Yeah, if I went with the drivers paralleled I was thinking about summing the L&R. Could you clarify what "op-amp based active XO" means? When using the HP10W and piezos I won't really need a crossover right? Or do you mean when I sum the L&R? Something like this maybe?