(If you like the tweeter, by all means leave it in but at the very least, I would pad it down a bit more.)
I'm not familiar with the above statement of padding it down. I appreciate your input. It's difficult to find anyone who owns a pair of these.
I'm not familiar with the above statement of padding it down. I appreciate your input. It's difficult to find anyone who owns a pair of these.
a few ways to approach this would include
-add or change value of fixed resistor in series with tweeter,
-add L-Pad variable resistor in line to dial down the level,
-reduce value of capacitor to raise XO frequency and use the HF drivers roll-off as additional attenuation.
All of these require working on the internal XO, and while the L-Pad allows for easiest tuning, it does require additional wiring and installing the control to be externally accessible - not necessarily an easy task to retro-fit in an enclosure with a folded horn (or TL labyrinth) path
rjb: to echo robber's question, which Fostex driver did you switch to?
The variable L-Pad shouldn't require work on the XO as it's Re to the circuit remains the same regardless of the amount of attenuation to the tweeter. Just make sure if it's a 8 ohm tweeter that you get an 8 ohm L-Pad.
well, I meant that whether supplementing or replacing any existing R attenuation, you'd need to dig out the XO to access the wiring to the tweeter to connect the L-Pad
and of course the impedance of the L-Pad should match that of the connected driver
Which it will rareky do since an L-Pad is mostly a variable pair of resistors and a tweeter is usually a complex impedance. With a simplistic XO, it does, fortunately make the XO behaviour better & more predictable in most cases.
dave
Yes, de-whizzered. I tried the FE166ES-R. We really need to get a sim going to know what the response will be. All we need is:
(a) chamber volume
(b) dimensions of each conical section
Really it's very easy to calc those with a proper sketch (with dimensions). If you want to tackle it, just pull off the FE164 and if your hands aren't humongous, it should be possible to measure size of chamber's "ceiling," size of throat, and the dims of the two conical sections.
If you can do that, I'll get off my butt and do the sim! 🙂 I suspect it can be made to work with a different Fostex if we reduce the chamber, and if all else fails, we can use some series resistance to get a match between the driver (lower mass corner frequency) and the horn's bandwidth.
There's a lot to like about these speakers (aesthetically and sonically), so it would totally be worth doing right 🙂
P.S. Terry Cain said removing the whizzer made no sonic difference -- hard to believe but I swear I read that!
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