Hi, so I have a pretty budget system, a set of Fluance AV-HTB+ and an Onkyo TX-SR304. Well, I managed to pick up a KLH ASW10-120 Sub for $15. Seems to work ok, but reading through many things on the web it seems there is a pretty serious flaw in its plate amp that is a fire hazard...
Obviously that isn't good or something I particularly want to risk so I was wondering if it is a big deal to switch in a new plate Amp, there are Dayton Amps 100w at Parts express for about $100, which is fine seeing as I got the sub so cheap. It wouldn't be a problem modifying the cabinet... Also the sub is kind of large, I wouldn't mind sawing off a few inches whilst I'm at it and adding some bracing etc, Im not too bad at woodworking, but a noob at speaker electronics
Opinions?
Cheers, Matt
Obviously that isn't good or something I particularly want to risk so I was wondering if it is a big deal to switch in a new plate Amp, there are Dayton Amps 100w at Parts express for about $100, which is fine seeing as I got the sub so cheap. It wouldn't be a problem modifying the cabinet... Also the sub is kind of large, I wouldn't mind sawing off a few inches whilst I'm at it and adding some bracing etc, Im not too bad at woodworking, but a noob at speaker electronics
Opinions?
Cheers, Matt
Hi, so I have a pretty budget system, a set of Fluance AV-HTB+ and an Onkyo TX-SR304. Well, I managed to pick up a KLH ASW10-120 Sub for $15. Seems to work ok, but reading through many things on the web it seems there is a pretty serious flaw in its plate amp that is a fire hazard...
Obviously that isn't good or something I particularly want to risk so I was wondering if it is a big deal to switch in a new plate Amp, there are Dayton Amps 100w at Parts express for about $100, which is fine seeing as I got the sub so cheap. It wouldn't be a problem modifying the cabinet... Also the sub is kind of large, I wouldn't mind sawing off a few inches whilst I'm at it and adding some bracing etc, Im not too bad at woodworking, but a noob at speaker electronics
Opinions?
Cheers, Matt
Is it a simple thing to just switch out the plate amps apart from the fitment obviously?
This is the sub
Amazon.com: KLH ASW10-120 Powered Subwoofer: Electronics
and this is the plate amp I'm looking at getting
Dayton Audio SA100 100W Subwoofer Amplifier | Parts-Express.com
The plate amp is rated at 100W and the old one is 120W. Does this matter.
Can you just wire in the amp to the speaker and are good to go? I know this is a noob question but I can't seem to find a yes or no answer to this anywhere...
Thanks
Hello Matt, replacing the existing plate amp in the KLH should be possible, but you want to make sure that the new plate amp is capable of handling the impedance of the woofer that is in the cabinet. There may be a rating of the impedance on the back of the woofer, something like 4 ohms or 8 ohms. If there isn't a rating you can measure the resistance across the input terminals of the woofer, if it reads between 3 and 8 ohms, you should be ok. If for some reason the woofer is a lower impedance than 4 ohms, then you may have an issue. Otherwise, the only issue is any necessary modifications to the enclosure to accomodate the new plate amp. (And don't mess with the size of the enclosure, that will screw up the bass response).
Peace,
Dave
Peace,
Dave
Hello Matt, replacing the existing plate amp in the KLH should be possible, but you want to make sure that the new plate amp is capable of handling the impedance of the woofer that is in the cabinet. There may be a rating of the impedance on the back of the woofer, something like 4 ohms or 8 ohms. If there isn't a rating you can measure the resistance across the input terminals of the woofer, if it reads between 3 and 8 ohms, you should be ok. If for some reason the woofer is a lower impedance than 4 ohms, then you may have an issue. Otherwise, the only issue is any necessary modifications to the enclosure to accomodate the new plate amp. (And don't mess with the size of the enclosure, that will screw up the bass response).
Peace,
Dave
Thanks for the feedback Dave. I have one more question you can maybe help me with... I'm married and as such the wife has never been happy with the sub, to her its too loud and too big. From my understanding if I shrink the size down, maybe make it two thirds its size and get rid of the port so it is just a sealed unit that should be ok and wont screw up the bass response? As it is it already is too much sub for our small living room, so I don't mind losing power and decibels if I can lose some size...
Is that feasible or am I going to screw up the bass response by getting rid of the port and shrinking the enclosure?
cheers
You won't be sacrificing output so much by sealing the box, but extension. That is of course unless there is a built in EQ curve on the dayton amp....say +6-8 db @ 35ish hz.
For $20 bucks more here's an amp that has a gain circuit and will put out the desired power whether the driver is 4 or 8 ohm.
SA-1 - SA-1
With that said, if you're a fairly proficient woodworker a good diy sub can be built for around $200. I only mention it due to the fact you're willing to spend $100 or so to swap the amp........why not build something that meets not only your needs, but makes the higher power happy too? If it's in good shape you might be able to resell it for $150 and partially fund a diy sub.
For $20 bucks more here's an amp that has a gain circuit and will put out the desired power whether the driver is 4 or 8 ohm.
SA-1 - SA-1
With that said, if you're a fairly proficient woodworker a good diy sub can be built for around $200. I only mention it due to the fact you're willing to spend $100 or so to swap the amp........why not build something that meets not only your needs, but makes the higher power happy too? If it's in good shape you might be able to resell it for $150 and partially fund a diy sub.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.