I'm in the process of building Buffalo II + Tridents + Placid powered by a 12.5V 95AH SLA. On the bench all power supplies measure correctly.
If you are using batteries and Tridents, you might want to use a linear pre-regulator (LCDPS) rather than a Placid. Shunts are very inefficient, so adding another high-current element will kill your batteries a lot faster than needed. There would not be much (if any) difference in the output voltage noise (and other characteristics) from the Tridents/AVCC regulators.
Hi
Just wandering if there will be a benefit of running each trident from separate LCDPS's and Placid, so clock Trident off a Placid, Core 1V2 Trident and 3V3 Trident off a LCDPS and the rest off another LCDPS. What I'm after is separating each supply section. Any opinions?. Will there be any issues with timing for the clock Trident being powered off Placid against the rest of B2 off LCDPS's?
Regards,
Peter.
Just wandering if there will be a benefit of running each trident from separate LCDPS's and Placid, so clock Trident off a Placid, Core 1V2 Trident and 3V3 Trident off a LCDPS and the rest off another LCDPS. What I'm after is separating each supply section. Any opinions?. Will there be any issues with timing for the clock Trident being powered off Placid against the rest of B2 off LCDPS's?
Regards,
Peter.
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As all the local supplies are shunt types there wont be much regulation to be done upstream. I doubt that you would find any difference. You would also need to cut traces on the Buffalo. My 2 cents.
I'd only cut supply headers on Tridents, not traces on B2. Easily reversible with solder link. My aim was not to improve regulation rather to minimise interaction on power supply lines to different sections.
Peter.
Peter.
Each of the tridents presents a constant load (they are a CCS). So there is really not a compelling reason to do what you are saying.
Just noticed on top of Tridents there are +/- terminals. Can you supply them from there? Russ, if that's not classified info?
Is it a realistic goal to try to combine a buffalo 2 DAC with a myref rev C in the same box? Any issues with interference or incompatibitlity issues, what should I keep in mind?
Is it a realistic goal to try to combine a buffalo 2 DAC with a myref rev C in the same box? Any issues with interference or incompatibitlity issues, what should I keep in mind?
Sure, it should work fine so long as you route wires appropriately and have enough space.
Russ,
Thanks for the quick response. If I run signal to the DAC via USB What additional parts "kits" would I need to buy from Twisted pear in order to set this up? (other than the DAC and the USB receiever?). I'm sure this is answered but I seem to get a sea of information when I seach for this info.
Thanks for the quick response. If I run signal to the DAC via USB What additional parts "kits" would I need to buy from Twisted pear in order to set this up? (other than the DAC and the USB receiever?). I'm sure this is answered but I seem to get a sea of information when I seach for this info.
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Modules you would need:
- Buf II
- Legato or IVY-III (your choice)
- Placid BP
- Placid
- 9V transformer for Placid
- 12V or 15V(either is fine) transformer for Placid BP
- USB module
- Buf II
- Legato or IVY-III (your choice)
- Placid BP
- Placid
- 9V transformer for Placid
- 12V or 15V(either is fine) transformer for Placid BP
- USB module
Modules you would need:
- Buf II
- Legato or IVY-III (your choice)
- Placid BP
- Placid
- 9V transformer for Placid
- 12V or 15V(either is fine) transformer for Placid BP
- USB module
Russ
that raises me some doubts ... so do I need a placid for the BII AND a placid BP for the legato or I can supply the BII and the legato with just on placid BP?
Naaaaaah, then the BuffaloII should sound lika Creative sound cardNot that it should really matter but... No, no op amps on-board at all.
The AVCC power supply module is a shunt regulator that uses an opamp.

Some thoughts about internal cabling both digital (S/PDIF) and analog output from the IVY, i am willing to spend some $ in the quest for the perfectly naturally balanced cable, am now running Silk Mk2 interconnects and Furutech rca and xlr .
I have partly decided to run twisted pair of the Silk mk2 at the output both balanced and se,
as for digital input i have ordered a Belden 1694A bnc/bnc and will modify my cd player into bnc.
The question that remains is:
what should i choose as internal wiring from the bnc to the buffalo S/PDIF input, the distance is max 2 in,
should i go for
-1694a shielded? might add some mecanical stress since the 1694 is quite stiff
-1694a stripped and center lead used both for + and -
-Silk mk2?
-other?
-other candidates as for the analogue cabling?
-Thanx
I have partly decided to run twisted pair of the Silk mk2 at the output both balanced and se,
as for digital input i have ordered a Belden 1694A bnc/bnc and will modify my cd player into bnc.
The question that remains is:
what should i choose as internal wiring from the bnc to the buffalo S/PDIF input, the distance is max 2 in,
should i go for
-1694a shielded? might add some mecanical stress since the 1694 is quite stiff
-1694a stripped and center lead used both for + and -
-Silk mk2?
-other?
-other candidates as for the analogue cabling?
-Thanx
Pardon a n0ob question...
I have a BII + Placid kit and I'm about to start the build. I'm considering using a 7.5VAC Wall wart. How should I connect the grounds? I assume neither of the two leads from the wall wart are connected to ground?
I'll be using balanced XLR.
I have a BII + Placid kit and I'm about to start the build. I'm considering using a 7.5VAC Wall wart. How should I connect the grounds? I assume neither of the two leads from the wall wart are connected to ground?
I'll be using balanced XLR.
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