Hi Cogitech,
Narrow profile speaker ... - Google Patent Search
This is THX's patent on "slot speaker" which is featured in Razer Mako. It's quite the opposite of what you wanna have as it's a down firing design, but it should eliminate high frequency beaming of a up firing design.
Narrow profile speaker ... - Google Patent Search
This is THX's patent on "slot speaker" which is featured in Razer Mako. It's quite the opposite of what you wanna have as it's a down firing design, but it should eliminate high frequency beaming of a up firing design.
borispm,
Thank you for the recommendation on the Aurasound drivers. I will look into them for sure.
Re: the slot speaker; it appears to be too complex for me to build as a first DIY project. I suspect it would be the best solution, but I must remain realistic about my abilities.
Thank you for the recommendation on the Aurasound drivers. I will look into them for sure.
Re: the slot speaker; it appears to be too complex for me to build as a first DIY project. I suspect it would be the best solution, but I must remain realistic about my abilities.
Cogitech,
I have briefly tried down firing the driver without having the deflector in place. With a piece of glass over my desk, it works okay. I tried it with my Aurasound NS3 and they work all the way up to 15kHz without much problems. I suspect all you need to do is to stick 3-4 small rubber feet to leave some space off the desk or whatever it can be, for the driver. Not sure if the reflection is as good, shouldn't work with fabric surface for certain though.
Cheers,
Boris
I have briefly tried down firing the driver without having the deflector in place. With a piece of glass over my desk, it works okay. I tried it with my Aurasound NS3 and they work all the way up to 15kHz without much problems. I suspect all you need to do is to stick 3-4 small rubber feet to leave some space off the desk or whatever it can be, for the driver. Not sure if the reflection is as good, shouldn't work with fabric surface for certain though.
Cheers,
Boris
I've had a change of mind once again (I am beginning to suspect this happens a lot in DIY speaker design 🙂 ).
I just stuck the specs of the Aurasound NS3-193-8A into WinISD and did some playing. It turns out that I can put this driver into a 263 cubic inch enclosure (cylinder with a radius of 3" and a height of 9.33") with a 1/2" x 1" port/vent and end up with a sold frequency response from 50hz through to 20khz with an F3 of 43hz and a -10 cutoff at 37hz! Talk about full range!!! This assumes no crossover implemented on the receiver, of course, which is fine by me (I'll just set them to "large").
Sure, this 3" driver has a couple of big "jaggies" between 12khz and 20khz, but something tells me this won't matter much once they are pointed at an angle into the upper corners of my room. The fact that they are 20W nom. and 80W max. is encouraging as well.
What this means to me is that I might end up with something more versatile; if I want to rock out to some quadraphonic Dark Side of the Moon or some of the DTS audio stuff I have, I think that low end in the rear channels will be very welcome.
Thoughts?
EDIT: Ooops. Just noticed that my 1/2" x 1" port was creating a port air velocity of over 50 m/s. I've changed that to a 1" x 4.82" and it is now down to 12 m/s air velocity, with very little change in the transfer function magnitude graph.
I just stuck the specs of the Aurasound NS3-193-8A into WinISD and did some playing. It turns out that I can put this driver into a 263 cubic inch enclosure (cylinder with a radius of 3" and a height of 9.33") with a 1/2" x 1" port/vent and end up with a sold frequency response from 50hz through to 20khz with an F3 of 43hz and a -10 cutoff at 37hz! Talk about full range!!! This assumes no crossover implemented on the receiver, of course, which is fine by me (I'll just set them to "large").
Sure, this 3" driver has a couple of big "jaggies" between 12khz and 20khz, but something tells me this won't matter much once they are pointed at an angle into the upper corners of my room. The fact that they are 20W nom. and 80W max. is encouraging as well.
What this means to me is that I might end up with something more versatile; if I want to rock out to some quadraphonic Dark Side of the Moon or some of the DTS audio stuff I have, I think that low end in the rear channels will be very welcome.
Thoughts?
EDIT: Ooops. Just noticed that my 1/2" x 1" port was creating a port air velocity of over 50 m/s. I've changed that to a 1" x 4.82" and it is now down to 12 m/s air velocity, with very little change in the transfer function magnitude graph.
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Oh, and does anyone have any thoughts on how best to stuff such a design?
Just line the interior surfaces with something dense, or fill the whole thing with polyfil or insulation?
Just line the interior surfaces with something dense, or fill the whole thing with polyfil or insulation?
Hi Cogitech,
I would not, however recommend a bass reflex cabinet for the Aurasound drivers. The group delay would be horrible, which may result in "slow" and "sluggish" sound. 2-3L sealed cabinet will still give you a F3 of around 80-100Hz, which is still pretty usable. I am going to have a 4L sealed bipole cabinet for my Aurasound drivers. ;-)
Regards,
Boris
I would not, however recommend a bass reflex cabinet for the Aurasound drivers. The group delay would be horrible, which may result in "slow" and "sluggish" sound. 2-3L sealed cabinet will still give you a F3 of around 80-100Hz, which is still pretty usable. I am going to have a 4L sealed bipole cabinet for my Aurasound drivers. ;-)
Regards,
Boris
borispm, I will not pretend to understand what you have said, but I will take your word for it and go back to a sealed enclosure. That really does simplify things anyway.
Thank you.
Thank you.
Hi Cogitech,
As you are using WinISD anyway, just switch to the graph showing group delay. 🙂
Boris
As you are using WinISD anyway, just switch to the graph showing group delay. 🙂
Boris
These may be of interest...
Wolf's PC Speakers
Search around the PE board for more info on them, scroll down to post #7 here:
Aurasound NS3
Wolf's PC Speakers
Search around the PE board for more info on them, scroll down to post #7 here:
Aurasound NS3
Thanks to all who have replied.
This project has just taken a huge setback. A co-worker has offered me a brand new pair of Mirage Nanosats "for lunch". What I mean is, I take him to lunch, he gives me the speakers.
I don't know how I can really pass that up, considering that the Nanosat is basically exactly what I need in a rear surround speaker and the cost is far less than any DIY project I could build.
http://www.miragespeakers.com/na-en/products/nanosat-overview/
It is a shame really, since I was excited about DIY audio. I guess I'll have to come up with some other audio "need" to build a project around.
Thanks again to all...
This project has just taken a huge setback. A co-worker has offered me a brand new pair of Mirage Nanosats "for lunch". What I mean is, I take him to lunch, he gives me the speakers.
I don't know how I can really pass that up, considering that the Nanosat is basically exactly what I need in a rear surround speaker and the cost is far less than any DIY project I could build.
http://www.miragespeakers.com/na-en/products/nanosat-overview/
It is a shame really, since I was excited about DIY audio. I guess I'll have to come up with some other audio "need" to build a project around.
Thanks again to all...
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Hi cogitech,
That's a great deal! But I also gave mine away 🙂
They are spectacular for ambience. I grew tired of them in general because (a) I have using 5 of them, and (b) I wanted more bass out of them.
But for rear surrounds, they are great. In terms of positioning, though, I found they still needed to be elevated and ideally quite a bit behind the listener (in my room anyway).
You'll be back 🙂
That's a great deal! But I also gave mine away 🙂
They are spectacular for ambience. I grew tired of them in general because (a) I have using 5 of them, and (b) I wanted more bass out of them.
But for rear surrounds, they are great. In terms of positioning, though, I found they still needed to be elevated and ideally quite a bit behind the listener (in my room anyway).
You'll be back 🙂
So since when is "I already have speakers, and I don't need to build more" a reason not to do DIY speaker building?
My current project is shop speakers so I will have music while I build more speakers!
So in the meantime, enjoy lunch and your new speakers. Like rjbond3rd says, you'll be back.
-Tom-
My current project is shop speakers so I will have music while I build more speakers!
So in the meantime, enjoy lunch and your new speakers. Like rjbond3rd says, you'll be back.
-Tom-
another grizzled veteran of the DIY addiction - thankfully my family has decided that an intervention would only lead to adoption of other even more costly and damaging vices.
yup, you're never far away from "my last project"
LOL.
Well, he has an entire 5.1 setup with these satellites and then he has 1 extra black one and a pair of extra white ones. He knows a guy who knows a guy who works for Mirage and he got most of the stuff "for lunch" so he has no problem passing the white ones to me. Lucky me!
He said they aren't amazing (he had to downgrade to this from a true audiophile setup due to WAF), but "good enough for surrounds". Something tells me they will be better than what I have now.
Maybe I will be back. In fact I hope I am, as I love tinkering and DIY audio seems like so much fun.
All the best to everyone!
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