Workhorse - If you got the PS all worked out - I don't want to start from scratch, plus have to ask questions because of the size and all. I'm down with contributing however I can - and we have a lot of wholesale accounts because of one of our BIG machinery CNC Business... So we can get parts, no matter how hard to find... Point is... If I can't help the design - I can order the PCB's, buy parts for the group, etc... All in all - I know how to design this PS - I just want it slick and with no version .2 ;-)
Don't want to feel like a leach.
Yeah, I get the toroid specs... Are you saying just follow SOP on the PCB, AC - to BR, a couple of misc and a ton of Caps?
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I have the complete PCBs for power supply including auxillary protection and input board also, but i will share them after i can see interest of members in building this amplifier, the main thing is amplifier only. To power up the amp pcb is not a big thing for any one here, all you need is a toroid with rated voltage specs + bridge and capacitors.
Awesome - If I run into having to print a full sheet and need to fill square inches on my PCBs I will let you know, and maybe you will hook a brother up. 🙂
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I am now ;-) - The non-cheeky answer is that I went to University for EE a long time ago, followed by BS in Electronic Sound Synthesis & Recording & BA in Music. Have been building speakers for 20+ years, and am now getting into the idea and actual production of purpose-built amplifiers for my various sound-systems.... I know this is very NOT DIY, but I am using PCB printers rather than photo/acid/wash, because I know the details and how-to's, and don't want boards that are missing all of the professional things like printing, dual-layer and perfect drilling.
Glad to know about you and your work.
What is meant by "purpose built amplifiers" you mean amplifiers in your active speakers are something else?
Well I mean amplifiers custom built to go with a particular multi-way sound system. Basically, to guarantee speaker protection, user error, etc - I want to force users to use a 4 way driver device (drive rack, simple 19" 1 space rack, or bigger and 'maybe' better), and focus on best box construction, tuned extremely well, but also knowing that over time people will change drivers - so the construction of the box becomes more important than actual perfect tuning... Instead of hand-drawing, I use Autodesk Inventor now, and have 2 big CNC machines to cut panels, make joints, jigs, or anything I need. (Like those beautiful hand crafted wood horns we have all drooled over at some time.)
Anyhow - I've learned over the years that people who buy sound systems never imagine what a replacement driver costs. They blow a JBL 8" transducer, call the shop, and find out a replacement is $600... so they buy a great eminence speaker, but it is nothing compared to the original. So I think it's important to make everything with this in mind... Start with RCF, B&C, etc... and end with ????
Design Cabinets for:
- Long Life
- routed-screwed-glued
- cabinets do not color sound through vibration or flexibility
- use findable pieces and parts (excepting some drivers of course)
- try for no internal electronics (if the speakers will still be used in 20 years, expect that it will be driven very differently than originally expected.)
-NOTE: One of my first BIG systems (20 cabinets, original amps, original power box) just re-found me. EVERYTHING is still in perfect working order, same cases, same wire, same everything. It is about 15 - 16 years old, and I sold it 11 years ago... and it was just installed in a new club down the road...I was pretty stoked to see and hear)
Anyhow - I've learned over the years that people who buy sound systems never imagine what a replacement driver costs. They blow a JBL 8" transducer, call the shop, and find out a replacement is $600... so they buy a great eminence speaker, but it is nothing compared to the original. So I think it's important to make everything with this in mind... Start with RCF, B&C, etc... and end with ????
Design Cabinets for:
- Long Life
- routed-screwed-glued
- cabinets do not color sound through vibration or flexibility
- use findable pieces and parts (excepting some drivers of course)
- try for no internal electronics (if the speakers will still be used in 20 years, expect that it will be driven very differently than originally expected.)
-NOTE: One of my first BIG systems (20 cabinets, original amps, original power box) just re-found me. EVERYTHING is still in perfect working order, same cases, same wire, same everything. It is about 15 - 16 years old, and I sold it 11 years ago... and it was just installed in a new club down the road...I was pretty stoked to see and hear)
How to adjust the bias pot?
how many volts in the emitter resistors(power transistors)? or how many mA in the power rails?
how many volts in the emitter resistors(power transistors)? or how many mA in the power rails?
10mV across emitter resistors of output devices corresponds to 30mA through each device, should be optimum.
Fault,clip and signal wires go to front panel leds? or to additional circuitry?
they can be omitted?
they can be omitted?
They go to another pcb for additional features, you can omit them for time being.
Have you made the pcb?
I've created a wiki page for this project: [wiki=Workhorse_1500KW_Bipolar_Class_H]%[/wiki], Workhorse has agreed to fill in some of the info that I have missed.
Help from others would be appreciated too.
re: GB - count me in for at least 2
Help from others would be appreciated too.
re: GB - count me in for at least 2
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