I've never had a conclusive demonstration of dramatic, life changing improvement via speaker spikes*, and after damaging my wife's living room pile carpet and Dave's planked fir wood flooring , I swore off them. I now use thin Feltack furniture pads on hard floors, and add a slab of 3cm granite for carpets.
*OTOH, I have heard things on which there is no scientific consensus work amazing wonders.
as to benefits of mass loading - the answer is a bit of both - this particular design is not as tippy as some ( such as)
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FAL/box-plans/fonken-tune-FE127-FS-Mk2.pdf
or Needles, Saburo, etc
Chris: Agreed! the only reason I installed spikes, was a) I had 'em b) used them to plumb the cabs-I have a thing about looking at speakers tilted every which way!!
Best, Don
Best, Don
Thanks, guys. Any thoughts on the damping materiel? I've had some difficulty locating (quickly) some 1/2" wool felt. Has anyone got a good supplier?
http://www.creativesound.ca
We're using the "ultratouch" insulation.
Beautiful to work with too!
Don
We're using the "ultratouch" insulation.
Beautiful to work with too!
Don
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>>> I've never had a conclusive demonstration of dramatic, life changing improvement via speaker spikes*, and after damaging my wife's living room pile carpet and Dave's planked fir wood flooring , I swore off them.
I like the metal furniture feet from the hardware store that nail right into the wood.
1-1/16" dia. Plastic Nail on Leg Glide
Something like the above link.
Sucks about damaging the floors.
I like the metal furniture feet from the hardware store that nail right into the wood.
1-1/16" dia. Plastic Nail on Leg Glide
Something like the above link.
Sucks about damaging the floors.
Chris: Agreed! the only reason I installed spikes, was a) I had 'em b) used them to plumb the cabs-I have a thing about looking at speakers tilted every which way!!
Best, Don
I just pour another 2 fingers of my flavor of the month and cozy over the other way in the recliner - the combination has a way of smoothing out a lot of deficiencies - including some in the playback system
It might (i wouldn't use it myself), but for essentially the same price ($10 for 4 ft^2) you can get Ultratouch cotton felt which is what is recommended.
dave
And what is the shipping on 3 ft^2 from PE?
You are going to need more than 4 ft^2 anyway, and i think you'll find shipping on 3 chunks will be the same. You'll need 4 pieces of the PE stuff.
And what value do you put on getting something that is known to work REALLY well, vrs something that might work OK?
Further, you can probably get Bob to cut the slices (it comes as a 200 ft roll) which wood be 8" strips (althou to fit around the holey brace, the cut-offs from 12 3/8" would be just about perfect width)
dave
You are going to need more than 4 ft^2 anyway, and i think you'll find shipping on 3 chunks will be the same. You'll need 4 pieces of the PE stuff.
And what value do you put on getting something that is known to work REALLY well, vrs something that might work OK?
Further, you can probably get Bob to cut the slices (it comes as a 200 ft roll) which wood be 8" strips (althou to fit around the holey brace, the cut-offs from 12 3/8" would be just about perfect width)
dave
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I added 8 pieces of Ultra to my shopping cart which indicated that I'd be charged 8 times for shipping. Still, may be worth it just for piece of mind.
i'm assuming you're referring to my questioning the cost/value . dave in no way am i questioning your expertise .
squeezing the most out of things in this sport costs money , but this is a diy think outside of the box forum . i'm a total newbie to diy audio , but totally diy in every thing in my life .
my using carpet felt came from our e-mails when you said to use 1/2 felt . readily available and cheap . i was just going to experiment with a few dif box configs anyway , not going for a final build so ..
would be interested in a techy comparison between them though . kinda like would i or any of us be able to tell the difference between $.50 /ft speaker cable and $358 / ft Goertz ?
cheers , Woody
The denim acoustic insulation looks nice and probably worth it, my first time seeing this stuff.
I have used this in the past with good results.
https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=404_116&products_id=767
I have used this in the past with good results.
https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=404_116&products_id=767
Once I tried the "ultratouch" blue, the advantages became obvious.
It's a dream to apply too.
Don
It's a dream to apply too.
Don
Carpet felt -- as long as not too dense -- works fine. It should be natural (or at least a high proportion) rather than synthetic.
I always encourage local sourcing, but if considering ordering from PE, why not Bob?
I'm on the 2nd half of a 200 ft roll of the UltraTouch. The stuff is a dream to use. Cuts with scissors, has a backing that makes it easy to glue, and is a nice blue colour (from the recycled blue jeans)
You could always split a roll with 30 friends, The 3 1/2" stuff is very nice for volume fill too.
dave
Now that the finer "threads" of batting have been explored, I would like to make more active inquiry into adding woofers/sub-woofers to the Fonken167.
The CSS SDX10 seems a good value and I would like to load the bottoms of the Fonken167 cabs with a pair of them. In my experience I can get away with a plate amp or some old commercial transistor amp sitting in a closet to power the subs. I think I have an old Hafler I built that would not take much dust removal if I can find it or an 80's "CLASS A" (LOL) Pioneer in some unlabeled box I know I can lay hands on.
My question is how best to tune a sealed box (to minimize cab volume) and where/how to cross it. A passive line level crossover keeps this from getting too overwrought an endeavor and since I anticipate crossing in the 150hz and down range it is just makes the most sense. (Thank you Dave.)
So, who has bi-amped the Fonken167's and what has been your experience? Or, if you have no experience, some base Fonken fantasy would be welcome. I have not noticed many children or small animals on this forum that would be offended.
The CSS SDX10 seems a good value and I would like to load the bottoms of the Fonken167 cabs with a pair of them. In my experience I can get away with a plate amp or some old commercial transistor amp sitting in a closet to power the subs. I think I have an old Hafler I built that would not take much dust removal if I can find it or an 80's "CLASS A" (LOL) Pioneer in some unlabeled box I know I can lay hands on.
My question is how best to tune a sealed box (to minimize cab volume) and where/how to cross it. A passive line level crossover keeps this from getting too overwrought an endeavor and since I anticipate crossing in the 150hz and down range it is just makes the most sense. (Thank you Dave.)
So, who has bi-amped the Fonken167's and what has been your experience? Or, if you have no experience, some base Fonken fantasy would be welcome. I have not noticed many children or small animals on this forum that would be offended.
I've compromised at 35 litre per SDX7, heavily stuffed with ultraTouch You'll need to scare up about 50% more volume than in the drawing.
dave
dave
While we're on the topic, I've seen a few examples of front firing subs on the bottom of the Fonken167. Can someone comment on rear or side firing options? How would affect sound, are there issues with it? I like the smooth look of the Fonken167 with the single driver on the front face...that's all...my reasons for the question are purely cosmetic.
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