warm is normal. Hot is not.
I measured my T2 : bottom of heatsink (closest to the ICs) gets close to 47°C when powered at 30VDC on the terminals. No difference if amp is iddle or playing loud.
Heatsink is warm if you put your hands on it. It is perfectly ok for the amp to operate fine
i see. thanks.warm is normal. Hot is not.
I measured my T2 : bottom of heatsink (closest to the ICs) gets close to 47°C when powered at 30VDC on the terminals. No difference if amp is iddle or playing loud.
Heatsink is warm if you put your hands on it. It is perfectly ok for the amp to operate fine
Do u guys have any suggestions for a tube pre amp for t2? btw the t2 has lotsss of bass!
Very interesting.
According to the TC2000 Tripath datasheet:
"The TC2000 is a 5V CMOS signal processor that amplifies the audio input signal and converts the audio signal to a switching pattern. This switching pattern is spread spectrum with a typical idle switching frequency of about 650kHz externally set by the CFB. The switching patterns for the two channels are not synchronized and the idle switching frequencies should differ by at least 40kHz to avoid increasing the audio band noise floor. The idle frequency difference can be accomplished by offsetting the value of CFB for each channel. Typical values of CFB with the TP2050 are 470pF for channel 1 and 390pF for channel 2."
On the T2 board the values are 390pF and 470pF.
Waiting for the hifimediy reply...
Absolutely. Sure boards have the same caps on both channels (390pF)
Hifimediy knows about that (countrary to Sure, he read the datasheet
). T3 boards are marked A / B depending on cap value.Hi, I bi amp with these 2050's I love them....but I too am wondering about those 3.3uf caps at the input....I have made a lampizator valve output/dac and the signal leaves the ouput stage thru 10.0uf caps so surely these 10ufs would allow me to remove the 3.3s on the 2050 boards as any dc has been blocked???
just thought I would add I run both boards of a pair on sealed lead acid 12 volt batteries. I have no noise issue maybe a very faint hiss at zero volume but it does not in my opinion affect the listening enjoyment.Its less hiss than the hum I get from my pair of Quadd 77 power amps!!!! When you add up the cost of decent power cable, capacitors etc its cheaper just to use the batteries. These boards are extremely efficient and I have no practical problems charging them. Just link them in parrallel put a car charger on the positive of one and the negative of the other. Leave over night. These boards are rediculously cheap and bi amping has allowed me to overcome a crossover problem with my diy speakers.I f anybody reads this don't ever waste money on big power amps buy a couple of 2050s.
Hi, we actually use 1k/14k on T1, so don't worry about that, 30V is ok for T1.
And for the feedback caps, I think some one has answered.
The output filter is determined by calculate and listening test, I think they are both ok for T1 and T2 design. But for T1, it's ok if change caps to 0.47uF as someone prefer.
I didn't try that, and nothing will be damaged when you do that. but I think you'd better add a 100~330pF caps to ground.
Yes, you can do that. But 10uF is a little too big in my opinion, some times will lead to clip-clop noise when power on and off. but it's worth to try if you like.
Warning to input cap removers
To all of the input cap removers:
Don't forget that the amp's input generates 2.5 vdc so if you remove the input cap you cannot jump the vacant pads unless you have also removed the pot. Now you have also eliminated the terminating resistance to ground at the amp so your source and cables may actually sound not quite as good. DC from the source is not the only reason for the cap. The amp also puts 2.5 vdc on it's side of the input, due to the use of single sided power supplies, which cannot be shorted to ground. The Charlize does not have a pot so that is the difference. Also, transformers may not like to have the dc from the amp running back through them and will also serve to short the voltage away so that the amp can't function.
To all of the input cap removers:
Don't forget that the amp's input generates 2.5 vdc so if you remove the input cap you cannot jump the vacant pads unless you have also removed the pot. Now you have also eliminated the terminating resistance to ground at the amp so your source and cables may actually sound not quite as good. DC from the source is not the only reason for the cap. The amp also puts 2.5 vdc on it's side of the input, due to the use of single sided power supplies, which cannot be shorted to ground. The Charlize does not have a pot so that is the difference. Also, transformers may not like to have the dc from the amp running back through them and will also serve to short the voltage away so that the amp can't function.
sendler
therefore sendler removing the 3.3uf caps is no good to me as i have a volume pot connected to both boards and I use the pots on the boards as a sort of "presence" control to make up for my speaker cross overs..it works really well. So is it worth putting in better input caps if I cannot remove them? I am weary of dc as my speaker cones where made in the 50's and I guess they are probably very fragile. Its why i have never experimented with the dutch guy's 2020's because I worry about speaker pop and I know his boards pop.
therefore sendler removing the 3.3uf caps is no good to me as i have a volume pot connected to both boards and I use the pots on the boards as a sort of "presence" control to make up for my speaker cross overs..it works really well. So is it worth putting in better input caps if I cannot remove them? I am weary of dc as my speaker cones where made in the 50's and I guess they are probably very fragile. Its why i have never experimented with the dutch guy's 2020's because I worry about speaker pop and I know his boards pop.
sandler
hi sandler, could I ask one more question...if the output stage on the dac was supposed to have 10uf as its output cap .....when we connect to another board with an input cap ... have we not just changed the "overall capacitance"? So if the designer of the output stage recommended 10uf then would I not have to change the capacitors on both 2050s and the dac output stage: to 20uf, so I achieve 10uf overall? Or again is the only answer by experimentation?
hi sandler, could I ask one more question...if the output stage on the dac was supposed to have 10uf as its output cap .....when we connect to another board with an input cap ... have we not just changed the "overall capacitance"? So if the designer of the output stage recommended 10uf then would I not have to change the capacitors on both 2050s and the dac output stage: to 20uf, so I achieve 10uf overall? Or again is the only answer by experimentation?
DC blocking
The output coupling cap of source components is not normally part of any reactive circuit so the value is arbitrarily chosen to get adequate bass. Most mid-fi companies use 47uf electrolytics. I have used 2uf into my 4k stepped attenuators but 3-4uf would be better and is plenty when going into a 50k pot. So the absolute value of coupling/ blocking caps doesn't matter as long as they are not too small for poor bass extension.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.