Dr. Suess is my hero so maybe that's why I'm so messed up in the head..lol
If you are ever in San Diego, go to the UCSD central library (The Suess Library, of course) and ask for the special collections section. They have lot's of Suess stuff, including many original drawings, including early political cartoons.
Sheldon
Delivered and hooked up but only got a 45 minute session in with some minor tuning and placement as the client is leaving for Chicago in a few minutes
But all I can say is that I have only gotten goosebumps 3 times from a home audio setup and this was one of them... more listening scheduled for Wednesday night!!!
xovered at 260 @48db
But all I can say is that I have only gotten goosebumps 3 times from a home audio setup and this was one of them... more listening scheduled for Wednesday night!!!
xovered at 260 @48db
So after a night or 2 of tweaking and tuning, the Blackmores are one of the most emotionally involving speakers I have ever heard as verified by the goosebump test..lol But I have sat in front of countless rigs in my life and very few have given me as much pleasure... Can't wait until the new 2way is completed!!!
Member
Joined 2009
Thank you!!!
the issue with trying to create a magnet solution is that is has a slight taper which prevents a solid mount.. I could possibly take a mold of the magnet but going forward a piece of 1/8 or 1/4 inch piece of aluminum will be used if I can find a local water jet shop that offers a decent price..
Thanks both of you..
in regards on how I go about building my pieces.. I typically do a sketch on paper first and from there take an engineer approach to how each section of piece will be built..
From there I will draw a very rough sketch on mdf to scale and then clean up the lines via jigs that I have made, straight edges I have kept from previous pieces of mdf or I'll cut 1/2 wide strips of 1/4 mdf and with air nailer will bend the 1/4 in gentle arcs taking ever 2 inches or so..
Or, my favorite tool is the flexible arc
adjustable curves
and then rough cut with a jig saw to less then half the width of the diameter of bit used and go to town on a table router..
in regards on how I go about building my pieces.. I typically do a sketch on paper first and from there take an engineer approach to how each section of piece will be built..
From there I will draw a very rough sketch on mdf to scale and then clean up the lines via jigs that I have made, straight edges I have kept from previous pieces of mdf or I'll cut 1/2 wide strips of 1/4 mdf and with air nailer will bend the 1/4 in gentle arcs taking ever 2 inches or so..
Or, my favorite tool is the flexible arc
adjustable curves
and then rough cut with a jig saw to less then half the width of the diameter of bit used and go to town on a table router..
Thank you!!!
the final step before I drop them off at the painters, is to do 2 coats of a high build filler/primer called Slicksand.. I spray it with a HVLP gun using a 1.8 tip and is a 2 part product.. It should be mixed a 2oz material to 1cc of catylist.
the first coat is laid down pretty thick. i then spend a fair amount of time block sanding with 220 grit DA paper. The second coat is a light finish coat that I will scuff down with a red scotch bright pad..
after that it's ready to paint
Phil featherfill is a great product and is really easy to sand but has a tendency to shrink over time.. Slicksand, if mixed right will never have a problem.. plus it builds better and seals the cut edges better as well..
in regards to the front loaded horn.. don't.. as this application was specific in 0 coloration.. I'm not a fan of any horn period and IMO would be going in the wrong direction.. IMO, this is some of the best midrange and emotional playback I have heard in 16 years of listening to hifi
Hello trusound,
"this is some of the best midrange "
how you drive it ? fullrange?,
did you made a measurement and an imp measurement, by only 1mm stroke
i think you will get a lot of distortion below 500 Hz, or is it made only
for householt SPL ~75 dB.
i look the thread but i didn´´t find something?!
"this is some of the best midrange "
how you drive it ? fullrange?,
did you made a measurement and an imp measurement, by only 1mm stroke
i think you will get a lot of distortion below 500 Hz, or is it made only
for householt SPL ~75 dB.
i look the thread but i didn´´t find something?!
yes, actual measurements would be interesting.
even just polars, not just on axis, if not impulse...
i am interested as to what makes this "some of the best midrange" to Randy.
maybe just different tastes, maybe something concrete that i'm missing...
i tried pm6a, hanging from string, found mids / highs downright unlistenable...
very colored, not worth measuring.
much nicer sounding with 160 Hz Le Cleach horn.
worth building mold for and pursuing, if i were to pursue anything with lowther drivers...
even just polars, not just on axis, if not impulse...
i am interested as to what makes this "some of the best midrange" to Randy.
maybe just different tastes, maybe something concrete that i'm missing...
i tried pm6a, hanging from string, found mids / highs downright unlistenable...
very colored, not worth measuring.
much nicer sounding with 160 Hz Le Cleach horn.
worth building mold for and pursuing, if i were to pursue anything with lowther drivers...
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