hermanv said:
What you say about tube SE amps is strictly true, but with high damping voltage amps the "norm" everything else has been lumped towards the other end of the spectrum,
We have a couple proototype variable transimpedance amps (TransAmps) that allow one to dial in output impedance essentially from 0 to infinity with a knob on the front... it is a very interesting excercise to dial the amplifier until its output impedanc eis just right.
dave
do you mean my use of Ω=ohm=impedance and @=at, because i don't know what high ASC11 is?planet10 said:
re: stable flat impedance/nfb set amp, that statement leaves one with the idea that flat 4 ohm speakers such as those from dynaudio and thiel would be a match when in fact the networks used to achieve the flat impedance would be a drag on a set. many of the speakers designed for nfb set amps such as audionote speakers and others have impedance plots resembling a mountain stage of the tour d'france.
mp9 said:
But what is the reactance like?
I'm not at all enthralled with the audionote speakers.
dave
this is related but it's getting further away from my question and i don't know, i'd need to see measurements.
i haven't listened to many AN speakers to have a opinion. at a audio show i got a fortunate invite to a after hours extended listening of a all audionote system consisting of AN-E/S something or another speakers, neiro amp and AN TT2 analogue source, etc. i wasn't blown away by the speakers but didn't dislike them and other than cost i couldn't find fault (show conditions take a toll too). the systems sound was very nice to my ears, much better than most mega$$ systems i've heard and lots better than the entry level AN gear i've had (past tense), or listened to. i tend to gravitate towards old quad esl's, single driver systems and multi way's/front horn loading. something about the way voice sounds with front horns when drivers are integrated (not easy to do), correct that i really like, just not practical for me.
i haven't listened to many AN speakers to have a opinion. at a audio show i got a fortunate invite to a after hours extended listening of a all audionote system consisting of AN-E/S something or another speakers, neiro amp and AN TT2 analogue source, etc. i wasn't blown away by the speakers but didn't dislike them and other than cost i couldn't find fault (show conditions take a toll too). the systems sound was very nice to my ears, much better than most mega$$ systems i've heard and lots better than the entry level AN gear i've had (past tense), or listened to. i tend to gravitate towards old quad esl's, single driver systems and multi way's/front horn loading. something about the way voice sounds with front horns when drivers are integrated (not easy to do), correct that i really like, just not practical for me.
I know the AN speakers of old, and, with no offense implied to anyone, I can't say I'd shed any tears if I never heard one again. I didn't like the Snells, and I don't like the ANs. I usually walk away from a system with them in thinking something on the lines of 'possibly decent, but struggling to get past the transducers.' YMMV as always of course.
I might be missing something here, but the F3 is not actually a current source amp; it's a voltage source, albeit with a fairly high output impedance. Like the Zen amps, and most SET amps etc. It's the F1 & F2 that are the FW transconductance amps (or as close as is practicable).
You can't have heard any good ones then, or ones properly matched to the speakers. SET amps do not have to have 'muddy bass.' Many do, that's for sure, usually due to rubbish output transformers, or (this is a favourite for 300b amps) not driving the output valve hard enough.
I might be missing something here, but the F3 is not actually a current source amp; it's a voltage source, albeit with a fairly high output impedance. Like the Zen amps, and most SET amps etc. It's the F1 & F2 that are the FW transconductance amps (or as close as is practicable).
You can't have heard any good ones then, or ones properly matched to the speakers. SET amps do not have to have 'muddy bass.' Many do, that's for sure, usually due to rubbish output transformers, or (this is a favourite for 300b amps) not driving the output valve hard enough.
Hey all,
Anyone have an opinion on speaker cable given THIS application? I recently rebuilt a pair of Dynaco Mark VI tube amps. I'm driving a pair of original Snell type A speakers. The Dynacos only drive the upper cabinets (midrange and tweeter). And the runs would be short @ 5 feet. Money IS an object here.
Anyone have an opinion on speaker cable given THIS application? I recently rebuilt a pair of Dynaco Mark VI tube amps. I'm driving a pair of original Snell type A speakers. The Dynacos only drive the upper cabinets (midrange and tweeter). And the runs would be short @ 5 feet. Money IS an object here.
Common 2-conductor, #16 stranded copper lamp cord will please your ears AND your budget.
I'm using the old standard Monster cable And it has a veiled quality to the high frequency. My budget will go beyond the monster cable just not out to say, Transparent.
If you are anywhere near some scrap Cat5 cable (solid core, teflon insulatated preferred), try a couple starands of it.
dave
dave
I find solid copper twisted pair to be very hard to beat . It is very inexpensive and if you want to get fancy look for something with teflon insulation and high purity copper, which can still be had very cheaply.
My fave is 14ga. Seems to strike a nice balance between bass and treble.
If you're going for treble only, then individual pairs of CAT5 or CAT6 make for good wire. Just keep in mind it is only like 24ga.
For your exact app, I'd try the CAT5-6 . A very short run , mids and treble , what can you lose ? You can find scrap pieces almost anywhere. Teflon jacket , twisted pair , high purity copper , with bandwidth that FAR exceeds audio limitations.
That is , as long as the mid doesn't cross over real low. I don't like the sound of little wire in the bass range. Sounds great for upper mids and treble , though.
Just my opinion.
..................................Blake
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The wire you need will fit in an envelope. Let me know if you'd like me to mail it to you. It'll cost you $1 including postage. It will be a piece of leftover I have laying around.
Please stop worrying about what cable you wish to use for a 5 foot run. If your Monster cable is displeasing, that's good, Monster Cable is a #$@%ing nasty company and should be avoided at all cost (Google Monster Cable lawsuits). The only problem is if you are finding something wrong with your system, it's not likely the wire's fault and changing it is not going to solve your problem, there's something else wrong. You have to look high and wide to find a wire that will offer a veiled sound.
Please stop worrying about what cable you wish to use for a 5 foot run. If your Monster cable is displeasing, that's good, Monster Cable is a #$@%ing nasty company and should be avoided at all cost (Google Monster Cable lawsuits). The only problem is if you are finding something wrong with your system, it's not likely the wire's fault and changing it is not going to solve your problem, there's something else wrong. You have to look high and wide to find a wire that will offer a veiled sound.
Living across the pond, I have NO IDEA what that means.
Gauge ?
Here in the States 14ga. is rated for 15 amps for typical power wire (120V AC) , and it could be solid or stranded.
................................Blake
Try using 16ga Radio Shack "Mega Cable" and let me know what you think then.
By F A R the worst sounding wire I've EVER used. I didn't believe the wire could sound that bad until I changed it.
.....................................Blake
If you purchase Pure Silver Wire from a jewelry/precious metal supplier, they only charge you by weight, not length - and silver (in diameters of 1 - 1.5mm = approx #18 - 16 AWG) isn't particularly heavy at this diameter - find a common sleeve from electrical wholesalers anywhere.
Inexpensive, excellent quality speaker wires.
The Silver MUST be 99.99% pure (known as 4 nines) and not the common silver alloy (sounds harsh, too bright) and is quite comfortable carrying a couple of amps all day - also suggest fitting it inside your amp, including the -ve return to central 0v gnd point.
Inexpensive, excellent quality speaker wires.
The Silver MUST be 99.99% pure (known as 4 nines) and not the common silver alloy (sounds harsh, too bright) and is quite comfortable carrying a couple of amps all day - also suggest fitting it inside your amp, including the -ve return to central 0v gnd point.
What does 'a veiled quality to the high frequency mean?' That's a serious question, because as-phrased, it could be almost anything. You mean the system's rolled off on the top end? Assuming this to be the case, it's more likely to be the amp or tweeters than the wire, which would need to have insanely high inductance to cripple the top end over a v. short 5ft run. If you must, you could try a v. low inductance wire; the high capacitance can cause some frequency peaking, which might either be to your taste or balance out a problem elsewhere, although even then, it would have to be extremely high to have much of an effect over such a short distance.
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It is 240 volts and 13 amps flexible mains cable that is used on general equipment like TV, fridge, hoover etc etc
Scott, I believe you are mixing/confusing two different posts.
The guy who mentioned his system was veiled never said anything about the length of the run, only that he was using Monster Cable.
There was another post about the 5' run to a set of Snells , used for the mids and tweets.
...................Blake
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I think you might be getting yourself mixed up as both posts I responded to appear to be by the same gentleman, viz. Mr2racer58. I refer you to posts 326:
...and 328:
...and 328:
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I think that part of the reason you pay such exorbitant amounts for speaker wire is the termination. I believe that audioquest(?) brags about how their terminations are welded with extreme pressure. At least they did years ago when I bought my six nines copper cable from them.
With that in mind, I removed the speaker cable running from the circuit board of my amp, removed the interconnect running from the circuit board, and soldered new expensive interconnects to the input tube pins and speaker wire directly to the circuit board. I eliminated probably 20 places where the signal went from one wire to physically into another wire.
Audible illusions 2A preamp, Moscode amplifier, sota cosmos turntable acoustat 2+2 speakers, vandersteen sub dedicated listening room with cement floors,walls room treatments etc etc ad nauseum, so all in all a pretty decent set up
Very little difference in sound. I recently made Tubelabs little single ended amp and audio nirvanas open baffle HUGE improvement.
I believe Mr Brines: speaker wire (within reason) has no effect on your stereo
Paul
With that in mind, I removed the speaker cable running from the circuit board of my amp, removed the interconnect running from the circuit board, and soldered new expensive interconnects to the input tube pins and speaker wire directly to the circuit board. I eliminated probably 20 places where the signal went from one wire to physically into another wire.
Audible illusions 2A preamp, Moscode amplifier, sota cosmos turntable acoustat 2+2 speakers, vandersteen sub dedicated listening room with cement floors,walls room treatments etc etc ad nauseum, so all in all a pretty decent set up
Very little difference in sound. I recently made Tubelabs little single ended amp and audio nirvanas open baffle HUGE improvement.
I believe Mr Brines: speaker wire (within reason) has no effect on your stereo
Paul
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