I assembled my simple SE and must say, the left side rocks. The right side, well it does not sound nearly, nearly as loud as the left side and it is crackly. I have tried re-melting the solder to the tubes sockets and caps, resoldered some odd looking resistor joints, checked the input and output connections, switched transformers, etc..... and nothing. I will report the separate voltages at different points later today.
In the meanwhile, I did notice that there are two open connections around C22 that I have nothing connected to. However, the picture in the website shows solder in those two holes (one of the holes sits on the outer diameter of C22). Am I missing a component in these holes? They are not marked as anything........
Secondly, I soldered a three way connector to the input of the right channel and later notices that it uses only a two wire connector. Is this a big issue?
Thanks for your input
Salsero😕
In the meanwhile, I did notice that there are two open connections around C22 that I have nothing connected to. However, the picture in the website shows solder in those two holes (one of the holes sits on the outer diameter of C22). Am I missing a component in these holes? They are not marked as anything........
Secondly, I soldered a three way connector to the input of the right channel and later notices that it uses only a two wire connector. Is this a big issue?
Thanks for your input
Salsero😕
Left vs Right side measurements
OK, here are some measurements,
Primary transformer - 427V, both sides
Primary transformer to the UL connection = 4V, both sides
Voltage drop across the transformer primary - 10V both sides
C21 and 22 = 228V, 222V respectively
R17 and 27 = 36V drop across resistor
C10, 20 = 1.88V
R14, 24 = 83V drop across resistor
R13, 23 = 2.8V
R13 and 23 to ground = 230C and 224V respectively
R19 and 29 to ground = 231 and 225V, respectively
Is this 6V difference between left and right a concern?
I noticed that when I switch transformers, my problem tracks with the transformer since the good sounding side switches. This indicates that the circuitry most likely is OK.
If I switch speakers, my problem also switches indicating that the speakers are OK.
So I assume I have a transformer problem. How can I fix or verify this prior to sending these GSX Edcors back?
😕Thanks
Salsero
OK, here are some measurements,
Primary transformer - 427V, both sides
Primary transformer to the UL connection = 4V, both sides
Voltage drop across the transformer primary - 10V both sides
C21 and 22 = 228V, 222V respectively
R17 and 27 = 36V drop across resistor
C10, 20 = 1.88V
R14, 24 = 83V drop across resistor
R13, 23 = 2.8V
R13 and 23 to ground = 230C and 224V respectively
R19 and 29 to ground = 231 and 225V, respectively
Is this 6V difference between left and right a concern?
I noticed that when I switch transformers, my problem tracks with the transformer since the good sounding side switches. This indicates that the circuitry most likely is OK.
If I switch speakers, my problem also switches indicating that the speakers are OK.
So I assume I have a transformer problem. How can I fix or verify this prior to sending these GSX Edcors back?
😕Thanks
Salsero
So I assume I have a transformer problem. How can I fix or verify this prior to sending these GSX Edcors back?
There have been two or three SSE's that had a bad channel upon initial power up. Most have been traced to a problem with the speaker jacks. The simplest way to test for this is to disconnect the output wires on the OPT from the rest of the amp and connect them directly to the speaker using clip leads. If this results in sound then there is a problem with the speaker jacks or the wiring.
The voltage readings that you posted look OK.
A bad cathode bypass capacitor will reduce the gain of the affected channel about 6-8 dB, but probably would not sound crackly.
Crackly is probably mechanical in nature.
Win W5JAG
Crackly is probably mechanical in nature.
Win W5JAG
Right side clear, but still low volume
OK, thanks for the ideas. I cleaned up the crackly sound by working on the speaker connection. However, the right side is still lower than the left and the bass is not as full.
Note - I am running ultralinear without Cathode Feedback.
Can the six volt difference between left and right be indicative of a problem with the ultralinear connection/circuit - I am tempted to resolder all UL connections.
Could the CFB feedback capacitor be the problem although I am not running CFB mode?
Thanks
Salsero
OK, thanks for the ideas. I cleaned up the crackly sound by working on the speaker connection. However, the right side is still lower than the left and the bass is not as full.
Note - I am running ultralinear without Cathode Feedback.
Can the six volt difference between left and right be indicative of a problem with the ultralinear connection/circuit - I am tempted to resolder all UL connections.
Could the CFB feedback capacitor be the problem although I am not running CFB mode?
Thanks
Salsero
The slight difference in plate voltage is normal behavior from the CCS forcing the plate current for each tube to be the same. Also, you have to take into account the 5% tolerance of R14/24. Measuring across R13/23 instead of relative to ground would be more telling and I suspect you will find they are within 1%.
Check you solder work around C12/22. Also try disabling CFB for both sides and see what happens.
Check you solder work around C12/22. Also try disabling CFB for both sides and see what happens.
Some more measurements
OK, more measurements follow -
Voltage drop across R18 and R28 = 0.52V
Voltage drop across C12 and C22 = 35V each
Thanks in advance for any suggestions
Salsero
OK, more measurements follow -
Voltage drop across R18 and R28 = 0.52V
Voltage drop across C12 and C22 = 35V each
Thanks in advance for any suggestions
Salsero
.........and we keep going here
Russ,
I am not running the CFB connections, they are shorted to each other as in the wiring schematics. What do you mean by "try disabling the cathode feedback"?
Thanks, gracias, merci
Salsero
Russ,
I am not running the CFB connections, they are shorted to each other as in the wiring schematics. What do you mean by "try disabling the cathode feedback"?
Thanks, gracias, merci
Salsero
From your previous post, I thought you were using CFB. By "shorted to each other" I assume you mean the CFB connection is shorted to their respective grounds? In other words T2-SEC and T3-SEC should each have a jumper between the two terminals.
and it keeps going........
Russ,
The T2SEC terminal 1 is connected to T2SEC terminal 2.
The T3SEC terminal 1 is connected to T3SEC terminal 2.
Does this disable CFB? or should I disconnect terminal 1 and terminal 2 for T2SEC and T3SEC?
Thanks for your time. I feel I am close but still not there yet.
Salsero
Russ,
The T2SEC terminal 1 is connected to T2SEC terminal 2.
The T3SEC terminal 1 is connected to T3SEC terminal 2.
Does this disable CFB? or should I disconnect terminal 1 and terminal 2 for T2SEC and T3SEC?
Thanks for your time. I feel I am close but still not there yet.
Salsero
That looks fine. The voltages all look correct. Some things to look at:
- Double-check the UL wiring. Connect the screens to the plates instead to try triode mode if need be.
- Try swapping OPTs on the PCB leaving the secondaries untouched. If the problem side moves, then you know the issue is on the PCB.
- Try removing the CFB jumpers from both sides. This will take the cathode bypass cap out of the picture. The gain will go down, but you are looking to compare the two channels.
- Double-check the UL wiring. Connect the screens to the plates instead to try triode mode if need be.
- Try swapping OPTs on the PCB leaving the secondaries untouched. If the problem side moves, then you know the issue is on the PCB.
- Try removing the CFB jumpers from both sides. This will take the cathode bypass cap out of the picture. The gain will go down, but you are looking to compare the two channels.
Not the CFB cap I think......
I removed the T2SEC and T3SEC jumpers and the difference between the two sides is still there - I believe this rules out the cathode bypass capacitor (C12 and C22). I will be trying triode mode next, to rule out the UL connection.
However, keep the ideas comming.
Thanks
Salsero😕
I removed the T2SEC and T3SEC jumpers and the difference between the two sides is still there - I believe this rules out the cathode bypass capacitor (C12 and C22). I will be trying triode mode next, to rule out the UL connection.
However, keep the ideas comming.
Thanks
Salsero😕
grounding
I grounded the incoming signal to the chasis in one end and the chasis to the power inlet connecto ground on the other end of the amp for both channels.
Are you suggesting a different ground configuration?😕
Salsero
I grounded the incoming signal to the chasis in one end and the chasis to the power inlet connecto ground on the other end of the amp for both channels.
Are you suggesting a different ground configuration?😕
Salsero
I switched the sides of the primaries on the output transformers but the problem did not switch sides indicating that the PCB is likely OK. It may be the output transformer....how do I test it? What may be wrong with the trnaformers??
Are the left and right sides of the PCB connected the same way to the transformers (red cable - UL cable - blue cable) from left to right for both sides??
I set the primaries in triode mode but the problem persisted.
I switched the input connections to the board and got no difference.........
Any ideas???????????
Salsero
Are the left and right sides of the PCB connected the same way to the transformers (red cable - UL cable - blue cable) from left to right for both sides??
I set the primaries in triode mode but the problem persisted.
I switched the input connections to the board and got no difference.........
Any ideas???????????
Salsero
I switched the sides of the primaries on the output transformers but the problem did not switch sides indicating that the PCB is likely OK. It may be the output transformer....how do I test it? What may be wrong with the trnaformers??
I have a feeling you may still have an issue with your speaker jack wiring. Next most likely cause is perhaps a mis-wiring of the OPT secondary (maybe they used the wrong color wire on one?). Less likely is a problem with the OPT itself, but it is possible.
Maybe it's time to post some pictures of your wiring, especially around the OPTs.
Are the left and right sides of the PCB connected the same way to the transformers (red cable - UL cable - blue cable) from left to right for both sides??
Yes, that is right.
Are you sure you have your speaker terminals isolated from the chassis? Have you used a multimeter to make sure you have infinite resistance from each pin of the speaker terminal to chassis. Don't have the schematic with me, but you may need to disconnect the wires to the terminals to prevent odd readings. Also check no copper 'whiskers' from the wires shorting on the terminal blocks.
Good luck!
Good luck!
speaker terminal isolation
I have the speaker terminals grounded to the inlet power ground for both channels. I also grounded the chasis to the inlet power ground. Wouldn't this imply that my speaker is grounded to the chasis? Is that a problem?
Thanks
Salsero😕
I have the speaker terminals grounded to the inlet power ground for both channels. I also grounded the chasis to the inlet power ground. Wouldn't this imply that my speaker is grounded to the chasis? Is that a problem?
Thanks
Salsero😕
No...but it is possible that the positive terminal is shorting to ground...or partially shorting.
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