Sure Electronics New Tripath Board 4*100W class-D Amplifier Board

Status
Not open for further replies.
One more question to add:

Most of these power supplies I see have an input voltage range of 90-132V.

It's a long story, but our power company insists on giving us 'extra' voltage. I have measured the line voltage as high as 149V here, or as low as 134V. What precautions if any would I need to take, given that ugly situation?


First off, if you are in North America, these issues can occur if you have a loose neutral in your power panel...check that!

If your power company just likes frying electronics, get a universal input PSU...or an automatic voltage regulator like an APC Line-R.
 
First off, if you are in North America, these issues can occur if you have a loose neutral in your power panel...check that!

If your power company just likes frying electronics, get a universal input PSU...or an automatic voltage regulator like an APC Line-R.

I'll check the neutral, but I'm pretty sure the power company just likes frying things. The voltage between the two phases at the 220 outlets ranges from 260-290. I read somewhere that power companies try to run hotter voltages when they have older systems with older transformers and don't want to replace them, because they can service more homes off of one transformer if the run it at a higher voltage.

Anyway, thanks for the tip. I'll check to be sure.
 
Crazy

I'll check the neutral, but I'm pretty sure the power company just likes frying things. The voltage between the two phases at the 220 outlets ranges from 260-290. I read somewhere that power companies try to run hotter voltages when they have older systems with older transformers and don't want to replace them, because they can service more homes off of one transformer if the run it at a higher voltage.

Anyway, thanks for the tip. I'll check to be sure.
Wow that's crazy! Mine never measures higher than 117v.
 
I ordered a board as well. I'm interested in knowing if anybody has any info on when will they ship.

Ditto. I ordered two on March 18th when they offered $5 off and said it would ship within a month. I messaged them last week and they sent back a broken english message that it was out of stock, but would ship Monday...but I don't think that happenned.

Is there any product even remotely similar in terms of bang for buck? I need 4*100 for active crossovers, otherwise I'd switch to one that would actually show up...
 
if your mains voltage looks as though it is always overvoltage then get your voltmeter checked.

If you still think you are overvoltage find out from your supply company the range of voltage for which they are contracted to supply you with power.

If you are over their maximum ask/tell the company to come and check your voltage. Insist they correct it so that it is ALWAYS inside the contracted range.
 
Just as an FYI, I received a note from Sure today that the items had shipped, so I'm a happy camper again as long as they show up in one piece.

Anyone else think it's possible the month of unavailability was due to a slight rework of some of the isssues in this thread? Or should I just expect the same product? I guess I'll have to wait and let everyone know, but I'm definitely planning to do some mods and get circuit crazy, so I'll post my findings.
 
I'm wanting to mount my 2*100 board in a case and want to fit a switch to the front of the case, I want to switch the 240VAC going into the meanwell smps its a 14.6Amp 350w.

This is the switch I want to use

IP67 Rated Illuminated Pushbutton Switch Blue - Jaycar Electronics

Its rated at 4A 250VAC, on the smps it says 200-240VAC/4.0A

Would it be safe to use this switch or should I install a relay? if so what type should I use?

Cheers
 
Yes, Btron, there has been a slight makeover...[my 2nd 4x100 arrived 2 days ago after a long delay. There was included without documentation an 8 watt stereo board using Mps7720 chips. perhaps a peace offering!!!].
The inductors are different. Now they are taller, with a single wrap of thinner wire around the ferrite rod. Also the skyblue caps labeled 684J63 are now a steelblue labeled 684J100.
I am delighted with the sound. I had played with homemade inductors on the other board. I shall keep these as is and buy another 4x100 for monoblock 4way active xovers.
I see that Sendler is still bagging these 4x100s on other fora as unreliable, 6 months after the bad start, in favour of the 2x100s. I am very happy...they run cool at 24 volts from a Sure [Modders] SMPS. By the way, I have both a 24 and a 27 volt from them...they are identical! Just adjusted ex factory. You can get the same range from both within seconds. For me, 24 volts sounds better than 27 volts into the 4x100.
Toodle pip
Phil
Poler...hang in there. This board is VG and Sure are very reliable [I have bought 9 items from them over a year and more.
 
DC adjust resistors

Did they fix the dc adjust resistors on the new version so that there is enough range of adjustment to get the amps to .0v?
.
.
Yes, Btron, there has been a slight makeover...[my 2nd 4x100 arrived 2 days ago after a long delay. There was included without documentation an 8 watt stereo board using Mps7720 chips. perhaps a peace offering!!!].
The inductors are different. Now they are taller, with a single wrap of thinner wire around the ferrite rod. Also the skyblue caps labeled 684J63 are now a steelblue labeled 684J100.
I am delighted with the sound. I had played with homemade inductors on the other board. I shall keep these as is and buy another 4x100 for monoblock 4way active xovers.
I see that Sendler is still bagging these 4x100s on other fora as unreliable, 6 months after the bad start, in favour of the 2x100s. I am very happy...they run cool at 24 volts from a Sure [Modders] SMPS. By the way, I have both a 24 and a 27 volt from them...they are identical! Just adjusted ex factory. You can get the same range from both within seconds. For me, 24 volts sounds better than 27 volts into the 4x100.
Toodle pip
Phil
Poler...hang in there. This board is VG and Sure are very reliable [I have bought 9 items from them over a year and more.
 
The inductors are different. Now they are taller, with a single wrap of thinner wire around the ferrite rod. Also the skyblue caps labeled 684J63 are now a steelblue labeled 684J100.

To my very green knowledge, this sounds like a potentially big change if the actual value of the inductor has changed, since the output filter is a fairly critical design decision. It may very well be an improvement, I just don't know. The schematic for the original version of the 4*100 had 10uH inductors and 0.68uF Capacitors, which equates to a LP frequency of 61kHz. Google says the new capacitors (684J100) are also 0.68uF, but the 100V variety instead of the 63V variety. Not sure if that matters.

The original 2*100 board had (judging from pictures, I never had one) 0.68uF caps and 22uH inductors, making the corner frequency 41kHz. This is all in comparison to the suggested 80kHz (actually 73.4kHz) by tripath:

Tripath Datasheet said:
Tripath amplifiers generally have a higher switching frequency than PWM implementations, allowing the use of higher cutoff frequency filters and reducing the load dependent peaking/drooping in the 20kHz audio band. This is especially important for applications where the end customer may attach any speaker to the amplifier (as opposed to a system where speakers are shipped with the amplifier), since speakers are not purely resistive loads and the impedance they present changes over frequency and from speaker model to speaker model. An RC network, or “Zobel” (RZ, CZ) should be placed at the filter output to control the impedance “seen” by the TP2050 when not attached to a speaker load. The TP2050 works well with a 2nd order, 80kHz LC filter with LO = 10uH and CO = 0.47uF and RZ = 10 Ohm/1W and CZ = 0.47uF.

NOTE: Output inductor selection is a critical design step. The core material and geometry of the output filter inductor affects the TP2050 distortion levels, efficiency, power dissipation and EMI output. Please contact Tripath Applications for additional information about recommended inductor sources.

Any clue what the inductance is of the new inductors?
 
Temperature?

I see that Sendler is still bagging these 4x100s on other fora as unreliable, 6 months after the bad start, in favour of the 2x100s. I am very happy...they run cool at 24 volts from a Sure [Modders] SMPS.

When you say the new 4x100 runs "cool," what temperature do you mean? According to Sure's posted measurements (here: http://www.sure-electronics.net/rf,audio/AA-AB009_9_b.jpg), heatsink temperatures at 24v are in the 70s (Celsius). Is the heatsink cool enough to touch (be careful 😉)?
 
Me too, also with the spare 2*8W. Not sure exactly what to do with it, any funny ideas? Computer speakers or something? For some reason I have this image of a bread box or a toaster pumping out tunes with some of those transducers from Parts Express...

I'm busy the next few, but will dig into the 4*100 next week. Exciting stuff.
 
I got my 4x100 a few days ago, to fit into my sharp ghettoblaster.

really impressed with the sound, considering getting another for my studio.

As for the cool running, Ive been listening to very high levels, close to the limit of this amp with a 19v laptop PSU and the heatsink just gets warm, no more than 30c

I too got the 2x8w amp, thinking about upgrading a toy ghettoblaster with it!
 
I ran it yesterday and today using a 24v 14A smps. So far so good, no issues, no sparks or explosions, just good clean sound. I'm waiting for a DAC board to arrive then I will build a proper case for each (in the meantime it resides inside a shoe box :/ ). Took a temperature read right now (at the inner part of the heatsink) measured 46c; however i'm not pushing it. Also wondering what to do with the cute little 8w amp...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.