hi
Hi there.
Thanks guys for help.
I do have one more question or opinion.
Im waiting for replacement ,i mean new board🙂(broke old one).
But i did maneg to mod old one as on the picture but felt maybe that was missing to much mids or just its me .i don't know if im right .maybe it is balance more than before and how it should.I just don't know .maybe i've done something not the way i should.I cant verified now coz cant played anymore.My power supply is just normal 24v laptop one.But there was lots of mids before.
what you think guys?.
Hi there.
Thanks guys for help.
I do have one more question or opinion.
Im waiting for replacement ,i mean new board🙂(broke old one).
But i did maneg to mod old one as on the picture but felt maybe that was missing to much mids or just its me .i don't know if im right .maybe it is balance more than before and how it should.I just don't know .maybe i've done something not the way i should.I cant verified now coz cant played anymore.My power supply is just normal 24v laptop one.But there was lots of mids before.
what you think guys?.
Attachments
I remember connecting the amp to some older speakers of some really good brand, but not liking the sound. I think it is more balanced now, and you are hearing the bad points your speakers have.
Cool new Zalman heatsink
These new Zalman heatsinks are pretty cool. Literally. They are a little too small to cover the entire surface of both chips but with my temp probe taped onto the exposed edge of the metal die of the one output chip, the temp runs 45C. The stock, third version heatsink went quickly to 65C with the fan removed. Even with the amp and power supply draped in a towel the temp only goes to 55C and comes right back down to 45 after removing the towel. A piece of modern art for $10.
.
::: Zalman, leading the world of Quiet Computing Solutions :::
.
These new Zalman heatsinks are pretty cool. Literally. They are a little too small to cover the entire surface of both chips but with my temp probe taped onto the exposed edge of the metal die of the one output chip, the temp runs 45C. The stock, third version heatsink went quickly to 65C with the fan removed. Even with the amp and power supply draped in a towel the temp only goes to 55C and comes right back down to 45 after removing the towel. A piece of modern art for $10.
.
::: Zalman, leading the world of Quiet Computing Solutions :::
.
Attachments
Hi Scott, my Wurth coils have finally arrived. Just about to remove the original slugs but do not know which way round the new ones should go in, ie; with the writing to the left or the right ? The originals have 220 written going across, the Wurths are printed side ways and not across in the same way. Will reluctantly abort this operation now until someone can tell which way they go ! 'A' or 'B' ?!
Either way
They can go either way just the same. I have mine all facing the same way right now. I suppose it is not beyond the realm of possibility that a slight difference in sound could be detected by facing the two outer coils in the opposite direction due to the way that any slight stray leakage may be picked up by the next coil. I probably tried it some where along the line but didn't take note of which way I liked better. Maybe we should roll them like dice and let fate decide.🙂
Hi Scott, my Wurth coils have finally arrived. Just about to remove the original slugs but do not know which way round the new ones should go in, ie; with the writing to the left or the right ? The originals have 220 written going across, the Wurths are printed side ways and not across in the same way. Will reluctantly abort this operation now until someone can tell which way they go ! 'A' or 'B' ?!
They can go either way just the same. I have mine all facing the same way right now. I suppose it is not beyond the realm of possibility that a slight difference in sound could be detected by facing the two outer coils in the opposite direction due to the way that any slight stray leakage may be picked up by the next coil. I probably tried it some where along the line but didn't take note of which way I liked better. Maybe we should roll them like dice and let fate decide.🙂
Ok got you thanks, thought as there had been no mention of direction here that they could probably go either way, but have buggered up too many things in the past because I was too idle to ask !
Cooler Zalman heatsink
These Zalman ZM-NB47J heatsinks are cheaper, cover the whole chip and run at least as cool at 44C even though they look smaller. $7.
.
::: Zalman, leading the world of Quiet Computing Solutions :::
.
These Zalman ZM-NB47J heatsinks are cheaper, cover the whole chip and run at least as cool at 44C even though they look smaller. $7.
.
::: Zalman, leading the world of Quiet Computing Solutions :::
.
Attachments
Really ? Which ones, please point them out for me. Using the Meanwell 24v to fire up these boards.
I was quoting sendler, but if you want to replace the input caps, use this:
Picture from audio1st
I don't think that was me. I've never tried the Sure with a linear, or even a good switched mode supply. I'm using Kodak 36V, 3amp switch mode bricks from a laser printer.
I think the quality of the design and parts, along with the amount of current, is more important than the type of power supply. In other words, a good supply that delivers a lot of excess current will sound good, and a bad supply that can't quite keep up will sound bad. Regardless of whether they are linear or smps.
Apparently the Meanwell is a good power supply. 10 or 15 amps is a generous amount. I'm not surprised they sound good. Likewise, I'm not surprised big linear supplies, or batteries, sound good. If you have a big, clean, stable current, it should sound great.
-dr_vega
if i want to just replace the input caps (c24, c18, c27, c17) with 2 4.7uf caps (what ive got about) and nothing else, can i do that ? i dont know if i bridge c25/c18 and just replace c24 and c18 with my caps or not.
i dont want to add a pot or anything like that.
ooh and if i do this, do i need to bridge the surpressor on the underside or just remove?
and given that im not adding a pot or using a off board rca connector- can i just remove r34 and r14 anyway?
i dont want to add a pot or anything like that.
ooh and if i do this, do i need to bridge the surpressor on the underside or just remove?
and given that im not adding a pot or using a off board rca connector- can i just remove r34 and r14 anyway?
Last edited:
I use a Sure to power a dual-voice-coil 15" open baffle sub. It sounds better than any other amp I've used to drive the sub. I'm running 4uF input caps and a 36v, 3 amp smps brick. I'm sure it would be better with a bigger/better power supply.
I listen to mostly acoustic music like vocal jazz. Acoustic bass sounds fine. I do not listen to heavy bass-laden music or movies on this system. I don't know if this amp is powerful enough to make room-shaking explosions.
-dr_vega
Very different from the Dayton poly/foils. Personally, I like them better. I find them more "musical," whatever that means. The Dayton's are crystal, the PIOs are velvet.
After spending some time now with genuine Vitamin Qs, I'm thinking they are too liquid for my taste. I think I'll go back to the Sprague 121Ps or the WestCaps.
dr_vega
Remove caps and suppressor
Remove C 16,17,24,25 and the suppressor on the underside. Install your cap in place of 16, 24 some where. I tried removing R 14, 34 but put them back as it sounded better with them in.
I was quoting sendler, but if you want to replace the input caps, use this:
Picture from audio1st
Ok thanks have already done so. Was a little confused at first asking the input caps as the picture I supply had them out of shot, and therefore questioned if there were any more lurking unseen ! Thanks all the same.
ive done it.- yay!
now,
how have you guys removed the fan/heatsink? just pulled it off??- not sure im comfy with that one.- i can hear a tiny amount of buzzing through the speakers that gets louder when i physically stop the fan- so i assure the noise is related to the fan?
so far the sound is a little softer- (good for me/my system) and more bass- yum.
now,
how have you guys removed the fan/heatsink? just pulled it off??- not sure im comfy with that one.- i can hear a tiny amount of buzzing through the speakers that gets louder when i physically stop the fan- so i assure the noise is related to the fan?
so far the sound is a little softer- (good for me/my system) and more bass- yum.
Last edited:
- Status
- Not open for further replies.