just to warn people and hopefully not to get banned or sin binned heres a little rant.
Where the hell has the "go ahead try it and see what it sounds like" mentality of this site gone? it used to be "i want to build X with x and x to do x what you guys think"
and everyone would say "X with x like thi will do better than x.
Where the hell has the theoretical ouput vs actual output knowledge gone. i mean come on people you guys should know this better than i do. like some drivers can be coaxed to go lower than designed for or some woofers can be tuned into subwoofers and shake that room. for crying in the sink people all i want is a design not f***king sell those drivers and get something worth it. i want to try it out and see what it performs like then if not happy ill sell the F***cking things got that? GOT THAT? huh GOT THAT?[/I]
Sorry about that but cant you understand.please dont put me under moderation just omit the post if you dont like it
Where the hell has the "go ahead try it and see what it sounds like" mentality of this site gone? it used to be "i want to build X with x and x to do x what you guys think"
and everyone would say "X with x like thi will do better than x.
Where the hell has the theoretical ouput vs actual output knowledge gone. i mean come on people you guys should know this better than i do. like some drivers can be coaxed to go lower than designed for or some woofers can be tuned into subwoofers and shake that room. for crying in the sink people all i want is a design not f***king sell those drivers and get something worth it. i want to try it out and see what it performs like then if not happy ill sell the F***cking things got that? GOT THAT? huh GOT THAT?[/I]
Sorry about that but cant you understand.please dont put me under moderation just omit the post if you dont like it
The cables are neutrik speakon cables 4 conductor designed for using a biamped system with the tops and subs off the same amp. but i have powered tops.
No sense of humour, so no funny stuff, got it.
Tight schedule, so no fancy stuff, got it.
Plywood enclosure, two separate chambers in the one box. Each chamber about 150 litres, ported, tuned to 40 Hz. The driver specs are close enough that both enclosures can be equal volume, but it is important that they be sealed from each other. You can replace the 2225H with another 2226H later to get better use of the box.
If you want to run them from a single amp channel make sure you wire them in parallel, not series. Don't exceed about 400W total. You should get at least 119 dB. Make sure you use a high pass ("subsonic") filter set at about 40 Hz.
Forget about an angled front. If it's going against a wall, put both drivers flat on the front. If it's going in the middle of the room, mount the drivers on opposite walls of the box so that they face in opposite directions.
Use a port at least 20 cm diameter, preferably 25 cm. A 25 cm diameter port for a 150 litre enclosure will probably be about 40 cm long, so make sure the box is at least 70 cm deep. You said you have about 90 cm depth allowance, so you should be OK.
ok fancy stuff is allowed as i said earlier tight schedule if it allows but i can go for a month building it if necessary. and um INCHES please.
how about one of us come over and hold your hand while we build it for you.......?
you have been given many options(here and by p.m.) yet you still are crying for something easier or faster or or.....who knows.
first problem was asking for "directional" subs. no such thing as subs have sound in front of them in all directions after reflection.
then its midbass not subs you need(but your in the sub forum?) to compliment the midbass that is falling short from your 18" subs crossed over from 80hz and 35hz.
well no wonder that the 18" cabs are falling short.
so the next logical question is........what are you using for tops? what cabs are not making enough midbass?
there lies the problem. its nice that you have two unmatching 15" speakers that you want to use, but sometimes its not that simple, nor the answer to your problems
if you have the power(amps) and cabs(who knows) then i am coming to the conclusion that its operator error here. you are not using the rooms acoustics to your advantage or are limited by cab placement in such a way that anything short of a "van halen" floor to ceiling stack of speakers can fix.
now here this!!!!!.......put both 18" subs coupled together at a 45 degree angle facing the center of a corner in the gym. thats facing the wall. bass will be everywhere and heard by everyone.
take what you are using for tops and spread them out every 40 feet apart, 8 feet high or at 20 feet of either side of your dj table. if you need more sound get more tops and make an array out of them. i have built arrays that can be heard a tremendously far distance away. the same speakers sperated had only half the sound.
if you need more sub bass, get rid of the 18's and build some 12"-15" horns. two should be plenty, 4-8 will break windows two miles away.
if you want a stage for dancers just build one.
😀friendly, fast advice, like its always been here.😀
All quantities in Canada must be specified in metric units. It's the law. (Imperial units are allowed, but they must be in addition to the metric units and must be less prominent.)
150 litres is about 5.3 cubic feet, and there are about 2.54 cm to an inch.
its not a law... besides your specifying them from wherever the hell that flags from. so therefore you would get away with displaying imperial only.
It's the law.
Canadian units - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
(Yeah, it's Wikipedia, but it quotes your government's official pages.)
"Wherever the hell that flags from" is also a metric units country.
How are you getting on deciding what path to take? If you need maximum sub (deep bass) reinforcement, the ported box is as good as any for those drivers. They're not really sub drivers, they do better higher up. If you want more upper bass (60 to 80 Hz and up), front loaded horns are likely to provide more bang in the space available.
Its says MAY in that wikipedia link,thats also for bought and sold things such as a 2 litre of soda. I go to the hardware to buy lumber and you know what its measured in INCHES F****CKING INCHES 2x4 8 foot 12 foot 16 foot.... 4 foot by eight foot sheet of plywood 3/4's an inch thick. however when i go to my PA store i buy fog machine dluid by the Gallon.
here is what im really thinking. Take my 18's out of their current home and build then into a couple sinbins or cerwin vega earthquakes. do you think that would be any better?
Yes, I think that's exactly what you should do. Come back and show us pictures when you're done.
What the law says is, you *must* use metric units. You *may* use imperial units, provided that the metric units are also listed, and the imperial units must be less prominent (listed second, smaller lettering etc) than the metric units. If your hardware store is selling 2 x 4 by the inch, then they need whacking upside the head with a piece of the aforesaid 50 x 100.
If you're looking to re-cab your 18s, you could consider 2 of these:
Rubic Horn - Speakerplans.com Forums - Page 1
(Each unit splits into two for transport.)
Remember, "there's no substitute for cubes", in speaker cabinets as well as car engines.
Hi mulletdude,
FYI, Tapped horns with those drivers would probably sound good but not easy to move around as they are a bit large.
If built to be placed with the 2225H TH pointing forwards and the 2226H TH placed behind with reversed polarity, a crude cardioids dispersion would be formed with cancellation depending on the inter driver spacing.
b
Attachments
devlish grin....he might just believe you and do it...
nope. ya can't just yank out any ole speaker and throw it in a different design and make it sound good. different numbers for horn cabs.
the cerwin vega "short" horn path does put it in the bass, not sub bass class if that is what you are looking for.
IMO though an 18" speaker making bass hz's is going to sound sloppy at higher volume and run out of spl sooner.
the recent tapped horns with the dual 12" in this forum are outperforming that cab using inexpensive speakers and lighter weight.
easier to build than the "bill fritzmaurice" designs, but not better sounding or more efficient than his.
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