Veneer wisdom

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I have never done it and I want to try it on my project.

I can use any and all experience on this. Is the Band-IT brand that PE sells ok?
What is the easiest method (hot iron etc.) that still gives a good result?

What tools are needed or easiest to deal with (Router,scalpel etc)

THANKS
 
I haven't tried band-it. but i've used regular old veneer to very good success with the hot iron method. it really is nearly fool-proof. as far as tools go, i've always used a box cutter/scalpel to the the veneer close to the right size and then cleaned the edges with a router and flushtrim bit after the gluing as set. hope this was helpful.
 
I did my first wood veneer last weekend. It was a lot easier than I thought. The wood veneer cuts with scissors and trims with a utility knife very easily. I did the paper backed type; used wood glue to secure it.
Lessons learned:
- make sure you have a roller handy to work out any bubbles
- if you must wipe something off the veneer (in my case, glue that "squished" out), use a SLIGHTLY damp cloth. Too much moisture makes wood veneer swell.
I'll be doing more veneer, now that I see how simple it is to apply. If I do paper backed again, I'll probabaly use contact cement though; not as messy.

Mike
 
I used the PE stuff with contact cement. The veneer is very easy to work with as mentioned. I had a little trouble with the contact cement. I applied it as directed to both pieces, let dry for 15 minutes, and applied with a roller. Everything looked nice and flat, but after a day or two I got some pretty large bubbles on one side. I was able to cut a tiny slit down the middle and inject super glue, but it still wasn't perfect. I would recommend wood glue if you can clamp the pieces down well- my speakers were too large for that.

Oh yeah, and remember that the layer of real wood (maple, cherry, whatever) is extremely thin. You can sand through it in no time and you won't notice until you finish it. If you're mating the veneer against any molding or whatever, let the molding sit a bit higher and sand that, not the veneer.
 
I used the PE stuff with contact cement. The veneer is very easy to work with as mentioned. I had a little trouble with the contact cement. I applied it as directed to both pieces, let dry for 15 minutes, and applied with a roller. Everything looked nice and flat, but after a day or two I got some pretty large bubbles on one side. I was able to cut a tiny slit down the middle and inject super glue, but it still wasn't perfect. I would recommend wood glue if you can clamp the pieces down well- my speakers were too large for that.

mattmcl,
Thanks for the tip on the contact cement. Maybe I'll stick with wood glue after all.
Mike
 
While contact cement like 3m 77 or 90 is quick and easiey, using contact cement for veneer can come back to bite you. Over time things expand and contract and the cement can let go.

Cold glue like typical wood glue needs clamping and time, but works well.

Heat lock goes on like cold glue but you let it dry and then use a steam iron to iron the veneer on. The glue reactivates with heat.

I've used all the above and now only use the heat lock. It is more forgiving. If you get a bubble, just heat it again and press it out.
 
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