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Joined 2002
thanks everyone who responded i am really in need of some answers.
so should i order the same coils that i just blew up?
i had a really hard time finding anyone, anywhere who would sell me coils. i would LOVE LOVE LOVE!!!!! to find coils with aluminum coil formers where do i even start looking for something like that?
how do i know if the former i have now is kapton? (ive enclosed a picture) is kapton the standard or should i even bother looking for something stronger?
the pictures i sent are the old coil and former (the intact one) and the new one you can see that the old coil came right off. can anyone tell if this replacement coil is a lesser quality one?
Nice Fluke meter in the background, recently bought ?
as she said,Everything is possible....to do the impossible just takes a little while longer.
😀
Regular voice coils are not that bad, but lately I've been experimenting with foil voice coils, without former. Now those are a true PITA!
Magura 🙂
did you spend the time and break in the sub? .
hahahhahahah yes 40 hertz 1400 watt "break in". but i didnt know how to break in a speaker and the result of my "test" didnt turn out so well
You are HOT!
😉
I'll tell her you said so.
She's old enough to appreciate that sort of comments 😀
Magura 🙂
do you sell any of the coils that you make? i would be very interested in buying some
Maybe we can work something out.
Magura 🙂
i have seen tempurature indicators that are lasers. can i mount one of these in the speaker to monitor coil temp? or is there anything else out there to watch the coil on the speaker?
even if i get a super alumininum coil im still not really any further ahead. i still wouldnt know how much power i could apply to it till its to late.
even if i get a super alumininum coil im still not really any further ahead. i still wouldnt know how much power i could apply to it till its to late.
You could mount a temp. probe on the former, and just use real thin wires from the probe to the meter.
A IR thermometer is not gonna bring you anything, as it measures quite a bit of surface area, not just the spot the laser points at.
Magura 🙂
A IR thermometer is not gonna bring you anything, as it measures quite a bit of surface area, not just the spot the laser points at.
Magura 🙂
running in a refurbished driver
just lay the driver on it's back with no box.
Apply a 5Vac signal @ ~50Hz and watch excursion. It will soon loosen up the spider and surround.
just lay the driver on it's back with no box.
Apply a 5Vac signal @ ~50Hz and watch excursion. It will soon loosen up the spider and surround.
when a voice coil fails is it only due to tempurature? or is it the electro magnet pulling itself apart? or is it the glue failing from tempurature?
the glue may fail first, the enamel will probably fail soon after. A paper former will probably smolder before either of these failures. Kapton will probably soften at around these temperatures.
just lay the driver on it's back with no box.
Apply a 5Vac signal @ ~50Hz and watch excursion. It will soon loosen up the spider and surround.
this is how you break in a rebuilt/recoiled speaker?
yes, just 3W of input into an unloaded driver will seriously move the cone at low frequency.this is how you break in a rebuilt/recoiled speaker?
I'd say test at 50-80% of the drivers rated RMS-continuous power to be safe (earplugs where appropriate). I like to look at THD as well as that tells you when you're getting to the excursion limit. Just did some 500mW speakers - it's hard NOT to blow them up🙂
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