I am collecting a pair of esl63's tomorrow, one of which doesnt work.
Is there any info on-line regarding where to start looking for problems?
I believe it just doesnt work at all, but i doubt ill be lucky enough for it to just be a fuse!
What else would stop one from working completely?
Any tips otehr than check the fuses, visual check for burnt components then trying to trace the signal/voltages to see whats going on?
Is there any info on-line regarding where to start looking for problems?
I believe it just doesnt work at all, but i doubt ill be lucky enough for it to just be a fuse!
What else would stop one from working completely?
Any tips otehr than check the fuses, visual check for burnt components then trying to trace the signal/voltages to see whats going on?
Try this link:
http://www.euronet.nl/users/temagm/audio/esl63/esl63_manual.zip
You will need to unzip it, but I think the last 2-3 pages should have a troubleshooting flow chart.
Good luck,
David
http://www.euronet.nl/users/temagm/audio/esl63/esl63_manual.zip
You will need to unzip it, but I think the last 2-3 pages should have a troubleshooting flow chart.
Good luck,
David
Been reading alot about these.
I know ill end up re-building the panels at some point.
How do you cut the holes for the bolts neatly enough to not create a weak point where the film wants to tear?
Also, the damping in the back, leave it in or take it out?
I know ill end up re-building the panels at some point.
How do you cut the holes for the bolts neatly enough to not create a weak point where the film wants to tear?
Also, the damping in the back, leave it in or take it out?
Hot tip of a soldering iron melts nice holes with no weak points.
The damping mesh is part of the low frequency response tailoring and diaphragm damping so I would leave it in.
Also while you have the panels apart, make sure the mesh is glued well to the stators. I've heard of them coming loose in places.
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ESL-63 troubleshooting
The first thing you should check is the light that is connected to the EHT supply board; assuming the red power light comes on when you power up the speaker...
There should be a small black rubber plug on the speaker base near the power switch; pull the plug off and power up the speaker (AC). No need to have the speaker wires connected.
The light should flash about every 3-5 seconds or so; even slower than that if the panels are in really good shape.
If you see rapid flashing, or hear squeeling or cracking noises from the speaker, then one or more of the panels are bad.
If the AC power circuit checks out, you should be able to rebuild the panels DIY; there are a bunch of kits available, or you can source the parts separately.
If you want a good one stop rebuild kit; check out ER Audio in Australia.
Their kit is probably one of the most complete and is geared towards the home user...may not be the best parts available, but it will get your speakers sounding way better than they do now...
Good luck.
The first thing you should check is the light that is connected to the EHT supply board; assuming the red power light comes on when you power up the speaker...
There should be a small black rubber plug on the speaker base near the power switch; pull the plug off and power up the speaker (AC). No need to have the speaker wires connected.
The light should flash about every 3-5 seconds or so; even slower than that if the panels are in really good shape.
If you see rapid flashing, or hear squeeling or cracking noises from the speaker, then one or more of the panels are bad.
If the AC power circuit checks out, you should be able to rebuild the panels DIY; there are a bunch of kits available, or you can source the parts separately.
If you want a good one stop rebuild kit; check out ER Audio in Australia.
Their kit is probably one of the most complete and is geared towards the home user...may not be the best parts available, but it will get your speakers sounding way better than they do now...
Good luck.
The speaker that works is a bit quiet, not sure if the top and bottom panels are working. Neon flashes about once per second.
The one that doesnt work at all, the power LED comes on but no neon at all and no signs of life at all.
The one that doesnt work at all, the power LED comes on but no neon at all and no signs of life at all.
Hmmm, ive been following the flow chart but im not sure on a couple of things.
Does LED come on? yes
Apply test 8 (as far as i can tell thats just means try both amp channels)
Does speaker shut down? (i dunno, its not doing anything, what is 'shutdown?) so, i assume No
Sparks visible but speaker does not shut down? No, no sparks
Audio output is low No, no output at all
Speaker makes ticking or fizing noises No, no noises
Speaker sounds distorted No, no sound!
No audio output Thats me
So, diagnosis J, which is No output, audio path O/C
Sound about right? If so, how do i now go about working out whats wrong with the audio path?
Am i following the flow chart right?
Here is the flow chart if anyone wants to check my deductions
http://www.onethingaudio.net/FOR/QUA/63/PDF/9512-QUA-63-MAN-SER.pdf
Does LED come on? yes
Apply test 8 (as far as i can tell thats just means try both amp channels)
Does speaker shut down? (i dunno, its not doing anything, what is 'shutdown?) so, i assume No
Sparks visible but speaker does not shut down? No, no sparks
Audio output is low No, no output at all
Speaker makes ticking or fizing noises No, no noises
Speaker sounds distorted No, no sound!
No audio output Thats me
So, diagnosis J, which is No output, audio path O/C
Sound about right? If so, how do i now go about working out whats wrong with the audio path?
Am i following the flow chart right?
Here is the flow chart if anyone wants to check my deductions
http://www.onethingaudio.net/FOR/QUA/63/PDF/9512-QUA-63-MAN-SER.pdf
Okay,
The "bad" speaker you have will need more in depth diagnosis than just following that flow chart.
Since you have absolutely no sound output, and the neon light does not flash at all, there could be a problem with the EHT power supply circuit or one of the three power transformers.
You will need a multimeter as well as a high voltage probe to be able to check this; be careful as the you will be dealing with high AC voltages.
Once you solve the power circuit out, you still may need to rebuild the panels especially if they are over 10 years old or so...
There is much information on the internet about rebuilding the ESL-63's, so do some research.
A total rebuild DIY can be done, as I've managed to rebuild two pairs with great results.
Cheers.
Ive been reading alot 🙂
Rebuilding the panels doesnt bother me but im pretty sure they dont need it. I was expecting to but ive heard them all and they all seem fine. How long they stay like that is another matter.
I swapped bases and the broken speaker worked fine so all the panels, wiring and coil boards are fine.
So, its either audio signal or EHT.
I swapped some more stuff from speaker to speaker and ive narrowed it down to either the eht capacitor/neon board or the audio transformers.
Ill swap the tx's over in a bit and see what happens.
I know 100% for sure that everything else is working.
It seems logical that the problem is in the eht cap board as the neon doesnt light. Would broken audio transformers stop the neon from flashing?
Rebuilding the panels doesnt bother me but im pretty sure they dont need it. I was expecting to but ive heard them all and they all seem fine. How long they stay like that is another matter.
I swapped bases and the broken speaker worked fine so all the panels, wiring and coil boards are fine.
So, its either audio signal or EHT.
I swapped some more stuff from speaker to speaker and ive narrowed it down to either the eht capacitor/neon board or the audio transformers.
Ill swap the tx's over in a bit and see what happens.
I know 100% for sure that everything else is working.
It seems logical that the problem is in the eht cap board as the neon doesnt light. Would broken audio transformers stop the neon from flashing?
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