Hi,
how much current do you expect a reactive speaker to draw on fast starting or fast stopping transients when driven to near peak voltage output of a 300W amplifier?
If you don't have an idea of that current deamnd, then don't even dream of designing an SMPS, or other regulated PSU, for a high power amplifier.
how much current do you expect a reactive speaker to draw on fast starting or fast stopping transients when driven to near peak voltage output of a 300W amplifier?
If you don't have an idea of that current deamnd, then don't even dream of designing an SMPS, or other regulated PSU, for a high power amplifier.
Hi Alexw88,
For my first BPA300, I bought a speaker protector+soft start (in one pcb) from muzza, this is his thread :
Loudspeaker Protector - diyAudio
btw, I've been finished another 2xPA150, without any trouble.
PS, i will post pict later...
Regards
Jopie
would you sell a completed PA150?
Alex,Thanks you very much unselfish sharing of the PCB gerber files.
Here I can find a very low price processing PCB,So, I intend to order some to try。
There is a request,Can you please sharing the BPRE PCB gerber files too.
Here I can find a very low price processing PCB,So, I intend to order some to try。
There is a request,Can you please sharing the BPRE PCB gerber files too.
hi
hi guys
im new in this forum and im intrested to build a car audio amplifier and use the pa150 in that.
i know how to build the pa 150 but i dont know anything about the other circuits wich used in car amplifier.
can enyone help me about this?
thanx
hi guys
im new in this forum and im intrested to build a car audio amplifier and use the pa150 in that.
i know how to build the pa 150 but i dont know anything about the other circuits wich used in car amplifier.
can enyone help me about this?
thanx
I would go for a class-d amplifier in your position.
Less heat, more efficient, more powerful
yeh...no prob dude
but i want something ready to build. i dont have time and also talent to draw the pcb s so i need something ready for printing and assembling. can u help me? any links and etc...
thanx
Hi everyone - i've just built 4 sets off BPA300. Using the prv134 for unbal to bal, for the brigdeing off the 2 BPA150.
Now is was wondering - how about connecting the bal output from dcx2496, to the input off the to boards - instead off using af unbal source, and then thrugh prv134 to make i bal?
Is this possible? if so, has anyone tried it?
best regards
Peter
Now is was wondering - how about connecting the bal output from dcx2496, to the input off the to boards - instead off using af unbal source, and then thrugh prv134 to make i bal?
Is this possible? if so, has anyone tried it?
best regards
Peter
Well it is done 🙂 And it works without problems - output imp of the dcx is about 160 ohm. Might have to change the gain of the amp.......
Just and update, if someone had the same ?.....
Just and update, if someone had the same ?.....
does anyone have a supplier for the Lundahl 1545a transformer?
the gound loop breaking and the fact that its passive makes it very tempting
the gound loop breaking and the fact that its passive makes it very tempting
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yeh...no prob dude
but i want something ready to build. i dont have time and also talent to draw the pcb s so i need something ready for printing and assembling. can u help me? any links and etc...
thanx
Hypex Electronics B.V.
shipment cost
the shipment cost will be so high
from indonesia to usa
would you sell a completed PA150?
the shipment cost will be so high
from indonesia to usa
how have people bridged the input signal ? I ask as i've been experimenting with the second schematic here -
Bridging Adapter For Power Amps only with the LM4562 as the IC.
Now each PA150 runs very well by itself with zero hum but when bridged i get ground loop hum.
So my question is - how have you layed out the grounding for the 'front end' (i.e bridging stage) of the BPA300.
Bridging Adapter For Power Amps only with the LM4562 as the IC.
Now each PA150 runs very well by itself with zero hum but when bridged i get ground loop hum.
So my question is - how have you layed out the grounding for the 'front end' (i.e bridging stage) of the BPA300.
How does this amp compare in sound to the Aleph 2 or Aleph 5??
Has anyone listened to both and been able to compare??
Has anyone listened to both and been able to compare??
Hi
This is different class amp between Class A & Chip Amp.
In my comparable i can say
Aleph 5 is very beautiful in sound better in high and good punch in bass
than BPA 300, but to build this need higher cost (120.000uf capitance,
bigger heatsink, bigger transformer & bigger electricity charge)
For BPA 300, i just try 2 modul without bridge them. Sound was ok, better
performance if in 10uf film caps you pararel them with Mundorf silver in oil
& electrolyth caps 100uf 50v use Panasonic FC / Nichicon FG / Elna Silmic
good in high and more than standart for the bass. Sound was so staging.
try to use for material Alexw88 suggest. Cause LM 3886 was invert IC
connect + module to - speaker and - module to + speaker
( Wanna Try Mods again ALEX ? change jumper with 0,1uf Mundorf silver in oil
just in your + PCB )
For Alexw88 did in Chipamp class i thought was one of state of the art.
I cant saw another LM3886 Design beat his masterpiece here. In a blind
test people always said in the begining your amp must be less in sound
quality than my LM 3886. But at the finish line they keep silent
I remember i use AlexPCB with china toroids versus LM 3886 other design
use 4 toroids and i can beat them easily. Thank you very much to Alexw88
to sharing, giving his masterpiece, for his patience to reply a lot of letter to
newbie like us before ( You liked be teacher to us 🙂 )
I didnt build like AlexW88 did, bridge two boards with Lundahl input
transformer and use BG Standart 1000uf 50v x 16 pcs. I BELIEVE
EVEN I DIDNT HEART IT MYSELF IT MUST BE BETTER RESULT
This is different class amp between Class A & Chip Amp.
In my comparable i can say
Aleph 5 is very beautiful in sound better in high and good punch in bass
than BPA 300, but to build this need higher cost (120.000uf capitance,
bigger heatsink, bigger transformer & bigger electricity charge)
For BPA 300, i just try 2 modul without bridge them. Sound was ok, better
performance if in 10uf film caps you pararel them with Mundorf silver in oil
& electrolyth caps 100uf 50v use Panasonic FC / Nichicon FG / Elna Silmic
good in high and more than standart for the bass. Sound was so staging.
try to use for material Alexw88 suggest. Cause LM 3886 was invert IC
connect + module to - speaker and - module to + speaker
( Wanna Try Mods again ALEX ? change jumper with 0,1uf Mundorf silver in oil
just in your + PCB )
For Alexw88 did in Chipamp class i thought was one of state of the art.
I cant saw another LM3886 Design beat his masterpiece here. In a blind
test people always said in the begining your amp must be less in sound
quality than my LM 3886. But at the finish line they keep silent
I remember i use AlexPCB with china toroids versus LM 3886 other design
use 4 toroids and i can beat them easily. Thank you very much to Alexw88
to sharing, giving his masterpiece, for his patience to reply a lot of letter to
newbie like us before ( You liked be teacher to us 🙂 )
I didnt build like AlexW88 did, bridge two boards with Lundahl input
transformer and use BG Standart 1000uf 50v x 16 pcs. I BELIEVE
EVEN I DIDNT HEART IT MYSELF IT MUST BE BETTER RESULT
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I agree, I have built A30, F3 and F5 as well as the PA150, to me the PA150 has just as much as detail as the F5 and so much more bass than the A30 which makes it the best amp I have built so far. In fact, I am so happy with it, I am not planning on building any more amp until I get the rest of my system up as well.
If didnt work i must consider to tell alex
some people say that input capacitor brings coloration
but for 0.1uf Mundorf silver in oil or Vcaps TFTF for me
like you saw the star with "Hubble" telescop
if you use 10uf pararel them below the PCB
if you use input transformer, change the jumper with caps
for economical efficiency you can replace the jumper in v+
some people say that input capacitor brings coloration
but for 0.1uf Mundorf silver in oil or Vcaps TFTF for me
like you saw the star with "Hubble" telescop
if you use 10uf pararel them below the PCB
if you use input transformer, change the jumper with caps
for economical efficiency you can replace the jumper in v+
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