Working with breadboards

Status
Not open for further replies.
Jump to Latest
G

ginetto61

Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
#1
Hello to Everyone !

I would be very interested to know if:
1) a breadboard is still the best tool to build a prototype 🙄
2) the quality of a stereo amp schema can be assessed just building one channel. 😕
Actually my intention would be to mix the L and R signals at the input and using just one speaker to test and optimize it.
It is the first time that I try to convert a schema in a prototype, so I am very confused and unexperienced. 🙁
Building just one channel a time seems to me a much simpler approach then making all the two channels.
If the prototype channel will work then I will build another one completely identical.
Suggestions will be very much appreciated. 😱
Thank you very much and kind regards, 🙂
gino
 
Last edited:
#3
nigelwright7557 said:
I get along well with veroboard or stripboard..
Click to expand...

Thank you very much indeed for your kind and helpful reply
I understand that with these boards soldering is needed
Nebertheless I have read of some issues like bad contacts with breadboards
After all soldering is much more reliable connection

If one amp sounds great then I cant think of a reason why it shouldnt sound good in a stereo pair
I think the same as you, I am a strong believer in dual mono construction
By the way I saw a lot of very good preamp and amp where the two channels are identical either they were in the same chassis or not.
I will take some veroboards then.
Thanks a lot again
Kind regards,
gino
 
#4
Are you referring to the "old school" breadboarding technique of screws & dish washers holding down all the connections?

I've done this in the past and it works. If you use soft wood its harder to get a reliable contact than with a harder wood. Also, this technique makes all the leads really long and so parasitic inductance and capacitance can become a problem at HF if you're not careful.

And then there's the rats nest of wires with low impedance, high voltage supplies on them. If you've never shorted out a 50,000uF cap charged to 40V before - it's quite an event.

P.S. building one channel first is definitely recommended. You learn so much on the first one - building one first saves time in the long run.
 
#6
Like Nigel Wright, here's how I do it.
 

Attachments

  • top.JPG
    top.JPG
    38.9 KB · Views: 283
  • bottom.JPG
    bottom.JPG
    52.1 KB · Views: 285
#7
Iain McNeill said:
Are you referring to the "old school" breadboarding technique of screws & dish washers holding down all the connections? I've done this in the past and it works. If you use soft wood its harder to get a reliable contact than with a harder wood
Click to expand...
Iain McNeill said:
Good evening !
I am referring to something like this one
http://www.robotroom.com/Joystick/Breadboard.jpg
There are clips to make contacts

Also, this technique makes all the leads really long and so parasitic inductance and capacitance can become a problem at HF if you're not careful.
And then there's the rats nest of wires with low impedance, high voltage supplies on them.
If you've never shorted out a 50,000uF cap charged to 40V before - it's quite an event
To be more precise I intend to experiment a solid state line stage
60V single supply rails ... 470uF of capacitance max on the board
A very simple line stage

P.S. building one channel first is definitely recommended.
You learn so much on the first one - building one first saves time in the long run
Thank you very much for your kind and valuable advice.
Honestly I thought it were much easier, just two bjts per channel ...
I should pass to a only one bjt per channel ... if only I found a suitable schematic ...

Thanks again and kind regards,
gino
Click to expand...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom