I don't believe cables make a difference, any input?

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So the neutral and ground arnt connected at the panel or are they? I would assume they are or there will be safety issues.

I guess the point is; to achieve what youv done all you need to do is make sure only your audio gear is running of a breaker.(so that breaker cct only feeds your audio gear )

Yes they are both connected but not together.No safety issues,this is the normal wiring.
And yes,there is a 30A braker just for the audio system.This braker has its own cable directly from the main panel and not from the intermediate distribution ones in the house.So,it is the panel,the cable,the braker and the audio system.Nothing to do with the rest of the house wiring.
 
danielwritesbac,
In my case, only thing connected on the dedicated power line is my audio system. Here, we use three wires (separate earth). The house wiring has been bypassed completely. I don't think that anyone can give any reason why this power line is not better. No refrigerators, washing machines, TV sets, dryers, nothing. Just 4.5 m of 3-wire, shielded, 12awg cable, no PVC either. No need for filters, and my amp's PSU is just fine.

Is anyone who could get away with a dedicated 4.5m power line for his audio system and wouldn't do it? Please tell me WHY?

Sure. Its like this: There is more than one way to get clean power.

As for me, I certainly do wish that the buyers of my rebuilt computers would connect them as nicely as you have done your audio system.
Since that is never the case, then I can only hope that the spendy APFC power supplies last as least as long as the warranty.

With the cabling as you have indicated -and- if used with my computers, there is no difference to their audio performance as a source device; however, there is a great big difference to their longevity.
Here's the difference:
If they had demonstrated a difference to their audio performance, that's a sure-fire indication of a corrupt power circuit, either at the motherboard or at the power supply unit. I binned one of the motherboards last week for exactly this problem, and glad of it, because the replacement has a divine performance.

It is probable that your equipment will last longer since it is on its own circuit.

It is probable that your equipment is exposed to less noise now.

It is probable that high-class equipment which was designed to have nulled any difference in power and failed to do so, still needs a health checkup. This omission may be a problem. It would be good to know.
 
. . .
The pros (me at work) and audiophiles (me at home) have different demands. Pros want accuracy philes want everything to sound great. I couldnt mix on speakers that make poor mixes sound good. So HD-1s at work Dynes at home. I would love to hear from other recording engineers about there experience.

I'm not a recording engineer, but I have to hear what my equipment is actually doing. I had to return a set of AKG K240 because they did the "rose colored glasses" thing. Yes, everything was nice. But, it wasn't the truth.

This sort of thing sounds nice at first, but its exhausting when every song sounds the same, even when that is glamorous.
OH, I don't mind pleasing the ear (on the basics),
but these headphones carried it to such an extreme that it was a form of masking, like home theater effects or like the "branded" sound of radio stations ("our station sounds like THIS!!").

It seems that studio headphones come in two flavors--for performers or for recording engineers. And, guess what the proposed solution was? An upgrade cable, no less. lol!
 
To be honest, noise going down the speaker return line has never caused a problem in any of my systems. As long as the amp is designed competently, the speaker cables aren't bizarrely long, the system is not set up near a high power transmitter, and the grounding internal to the amplifier is done correctly (all easy things to do for 99.99% of us), this is a non-issue.
. . .

Well, my transmitter isn't high power exactly, but it does cover a section and a half of private property. Its not a cheap pirate model, but rather a pro model with a short antenna to reduce the coverage to the allowed amount. I had to do it that way to get enough filtering on the output.

On exposure to the transmitter. . .

The tube amp will say "Whee!!"

The Tripath lets out with some static. Its also sensitive to cellphone blips.

Most of the collection of customary designs make even worse quality bass, and a tiny bit of extra racket.

The experimental bridge amp that has already blown up in theory but works perfectly in practice 7 months so far, continued working perfectly; however, the bridge amp can carry a centerpoint ground (chassis ground) down the 3 conductor speaker wire to the speaker driver frame, for operating near a radio transmitter. Is that cheating?

Zero NFB tubes with output transformers. 😀

Well said 😎

Wow, really good bass and live sound dynamics too?

That might be a bit spendy for 200 watts?

Perhaps I could simply ground the speaker via a transistor instead of using the small signal groundpoint? This seems much less expensive.
 
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it seems that studio headphones come in two flavors--for performers or for recording engineers.

There only for the players(although some mixers check there mixes on them) and there not for fidelity, they need to be very loud (so the drummer(giutar player) can hear the click track (bass) over his live drums (marshal stack at 11)) with minimal leakage into the mic. And they have to take the abuse they get. AKGs are nice but over priced and not as Hi Fi as most people think.
 
Still not clear, how is the ground wire conected to ground and where is the neutral and ground conected together? They will have to be conected somewhere down the line dont they?

I´ll try to enlighten you then.
In most of Europe you have a 3 wire system, where Brown is live, Blue is Neutral and yellow is Earth.
In reality the blue one is earth at the powerplant, the yellow one is connected to a ground rod which at least must be 3m long/13 feet or so. and placed near by your house, thus you could call it "local ground" and it isn´t connected to neutral anywhere.
To protect you against currents on the surface of i.e. a washingmashine, there must be a very sensitive fault current relay in the system, which is required by law.
We also use 230V/50Hz in Europe, and fuses are mostly 10/13 or 16A, depending on the wiregauge used in the house.
Most homes do also feature 3 phase electrics, which means you can have 3*16A and then 400V between 3 different live wires in special outlets with 5 leads. The live wires are called "Top, Trunk, Root, and then you have neutral and ground, the two additional live wires are gray and black. Beween one live and neutral you have 230V RMS, between 2 live wires you have 400V RMS. This is often used for stoves, ovens and heating or so, earlier it was also used for washingmachines, discwashers etc.

In i.e. Norway it is different though, as they have both the brown and the blue leads live, 2 live leads and one local ground or cliff one might say😀, in a normal 230V outlet.
So they do not have to orient their power plugs correctly as we do.

Three phase sinusoidal power illustration, pay attention to the much larger voltage between L1 and L3 compared to L1 and neutral Fil:Tidskurve-3-faset-sinus.gif - Wikipedia, den frie encyklopædi
one phase generator http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a8/Simpel-1-faset-generator.gif
three phase generatorFil:Simpel-3-faset-generator.gif - Wikipedia, den frie encyklopædi
Ground rod as they look in DK they are typically 2-4m long http://cubus-adsl.dk/elteknik/billedopslag/jordspyd.jpg
 
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To be stricktly correct, most 3 phase engines, heaters or so, will only use 4 leads, as neutral is not used. Only the phase to phase voltage is used, as otherwise, the neutral wire would have to be as heavy as the 3 phases all together.
By the way phase to phase voltage = Phase to neutral voltage * sqrt. 3.
That means if 110V/60Hz is distributed the same way in NA, the P-P voltage would be 190V.

Don´t ever mess with this kind of voltage yourself, 400V in the wrong place is fatal to humans and animals.
I´ve seen once someone fooling around with this, who ended up with 2 phase 400V in the outlets, this damaged both TV set, lightbulbs and a lot of other stuff.
 
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Wow, really good bass and live sound dynamics too?

That might be a bit spendy for 200 watts?

Perhaps I could simply ground the speaker via a transistor instead of using the small signal groundpoint? This seems much less expensive.

Tubes sound so much more "real", so we do not have to turn them up to ear splitting levels, to attain "clarity" 😀 Ancient Chinese secret in audio 😎
 
Don´t ever mess with this kind of voltage yourself, ................
I´ve seen once someone fooling around with this, who ended up with 2 phase 400V in the outlets,
I have three phase (240Vac/410Vac) in my house and have had in my previous two houses. Yes, every house I have lived in since 1981. That's 28years I have avoided foolishness.
I have NEVER had 410Vac to any of my single phase socket outlets.
 
I actually agree with SY, what would the purpose of a blind test be if you can't even hear a difference with sighted listening?
<snip>

Bias mechanism don´t work in only one direction. That´s the reason why during tests in institutes an universities quite often something like a "triple blind test protocol" is used, what means that participants don´t know what effect is under test.

So if someones argues with science and uncontrollable bias mechanisms then i think he is obliged to take at least his own arguments serious.
The quoted scheme above does only rely on what the experimentator _beliefes_ and therefore has nothing in common with proper methodology.

Wishes
Of course one could do it that way, but
 
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