How does this Diatone P610 look?

I have recently been recommended the Diatone P610 clones from AliExpress.

From previous experience, I know that there's quite a lot of money to be saved by sourcing stuff from Taobao instead of Ali. Looking for an alternative I have stumbled upon this version, which seems to have gotten some really good reviews: 6.5?HIFI?????? DIATONE P-610S-???

Is someone able to shed some light on this particular version? Heres a little info from the listing. Full info can be found on above link.


O1CN016sddPc1Nq0AFKjtGj_!!745691620.jpg


O1CN011Nq05dnyCdQ9yWo_!!745691620.jpg



O1CN011Nq05fuz0cKnVAa_!!745691620.jpg


O1CN011Nq05cUNO18zfCy_!!745691620.jpg


This is the version I was originally recommended: Buy Products Online from China Wholesalers at Aliexpress.com
Could they possibly be identical?

Cm6632a driver on the last ARM Mac

Hello,

I have a DAC (hegel hd12) which uses the cm6632a chip and I have a driver (kext format, which contains Intel unix exec) that works fine on Intel mac running on Catalina. This driver is necessary to stream DSD files (without the driver, only PCM).

If I upgrade to the new ARM mac, I think this driver doesnt gonna work anymore, but Cmedia doesnt do anything to maintain their old drivers... but technically, it must be a way to make it compatible, wrong ?

In the kext package of the driver, there is only a plist file (which is only plain text) and an executable.

Is there a way to create an ARM compatible executable from the original Intel executable, or we have to rewrite everything for an ARM architecture ? I dont have any competences for the second option 🙁

I think if we could create an ARM compatible exec from the original Intel exec, maybe we could create a Kext file which is compatible with the new ARM mac ?

I dont want to buy a new Dac, i'm very satisfied with the DSD on the HD12 😢 but I need to upgrade my computer, soon or later

Any ideas ?

Sorry for my english if I made mistakes, i'm not a native speaker 😉

For Sale Full range Markaudio Alpair-11MS pensil cabinets

For sale
A Pair of Markaudio Alpair-11MS drivers, in pensil cabinets.
Cabinets are made out of 3/4 MDF, Hemlock veneered and hand polished Nitrocellulose lacquer finish.

Very even sounding speakers. Tight bass response with a very pleasing, neutral top end.
Especially suited for acoustic music, heavenly with a good tube amp.

$625
Paypal or cash upon pickup

Local pickup only, in Jersey City NJ.

3s.jpg2s.jpg1s.jpgPensilA11-P11.jpg

For Sale FS/UK - SB Acoustics SB23MFCL45-4 8" 4Ω Subwoofer Drivers (x2)

SOLD.

SB Acoustics SB23MFCL45-4 8" 4Ω Subwoofer Drivers (x2)


Amazing drivers used in sealed enclosures for around a year. Never pushed or abused and kept at domestic sound levels. Original SB Acoustics packaging including individual boxes, outer pair box and inner plastic bags. Very nicely secured by SB Acoustics from the factory. Cost me £225 from Falcon Acoustics.

No blemishes other than a slight scratch mark to one cone which I only noticed upon getting out to photograph. This was hard to get a decent photo of.

https://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/downloads/SBA/8in SB23MFCL45-4.pdf

Postage is around £10 depending on the service you would like. UK Only.

£135.

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More Purifi goodies aka Erin you’ve done it again!

Thank you @bikinpunk who has posted the Klippel measurements and reviews of the aluminium 6 inch and 8” midwoofers and 6” midrange.

www.erinsaudiocorner.com


I need to pour myself a coffee to look at all the data and then sign myself up to Afterpay…

PS. Can you add normalised off axis measurements please?
Any chance of doing distortion at 102 or 106dB?

FS: Minidsp C-DSP 6x8 Digital Audio Processor for Mobile/Car audio installations

I have a used MiniDSP C-DSP 6 x 8, 6 IN, 8 x OUT 56bit Digital Audio Processor for Mobile/Car audio installations. Analog (High/Low) & Digital (SPDIF) inputs. 8 x Analog out. I'm getting out of car audio. I'll email the software plug-in to the purchaser.

$50 plus $21 for USPS shipping.

PXL_20220607_191422122.jpg

PXL_20220607_191430688.jpg

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Need advice on a faulty c audio ra3001!!

I have not long bought a ra3001 off the net, only used it twice, blown fuses both times!! First time it blew the external fuse, 2nd time tried to use it blew the first internal fuse on the left half of amp as you look at the front of amp (T1.6AL) The amp appears to have had couple of the components replaced before. Could do with chatting with someone who knows these amps well as would like to fix it rather than replace. cheers

Concentric tweeter

As an experiment for a 2 way, I tried fixing a tweeter in front of a full range, so both speakers are concentric. The speakers are:
  • Peerless India LR10DT, 1 inch dome tweeter
  • Philips 9710 clone 8 inch full range
  • Cabinet 21 L
Tweeter fixed concentric to the FR, with a 2 inch gap.
It sounds pretty good to my ears, as a point source with good frequency response. This speaker handles 100 Hz and above, with a 6dB crossover at 2200 Hz .
I use it as a nearfield, augmented by a subwoofer.
Thoughts?

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When can a subwoofer be a woofer?

We have all seen the hatchet jobs where a car audio subwoofer is used to replace a bad woofer but that begs the question how rigid is the dividing line between woofers and sub-woofer drivers?

For example let's say one were designing a passive three way with the crossover from the woofer to the midrange in the vicinity of 400-450Hz could one reasonably use this driver as the woofer even though it is sold as a sub?

https://www.parts-express.com/Peerl...fessional-Paper-Cone-Subwoofer-8-Ohm-264-1480
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/264-1480--tymphany-fsl-1830r03-08-spec-sheet.pdf

The voice coil inductance is not any larger than drivers I have seen marketed as woofers.

High failure Rate of PAM8610 Board

We experience a high failure rate, up to 30%, on the PAM8610 breakout board. The faults are different. No speaker output, distorted output, High current consumption (>500mA), etc.
Anybody has the same experience? Do we do something wrong or is it a low quality item?
The attached diagram shows what we do. Confusing for us is the following: Setting the SW to 0, Fade is working perfect, If we open the SW, we measure the full supply voltage on the pin marked SW. The data sheet specifies that the absolute maximum rating for FADE is 0-6V. I have attached the data sheet.

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Silencio speaker, my take and taste on speaker building!

I have been building DIY speakers for many years and wanted to combine the benefits from some good (old) French designs, like Elipson and Jean-Marie Reynaud with improved housing, materials and speaker units. The idea was to have as less material possible around the drivers to avoid baffle diffraction and off set the drivers for time alignment which has a profound influence to get a coherent wave front. I opted for a closed enclosure because of the huge impact this has on the low midrange performance and a more tight, time correct bass.

The listing position meant that the bass enclosure could not be more then 80 cm high and the total height not more then 110 cm. Other important point was as less filter components as possible so the unit's needed to be able to handle 6 dB filtering, except for the magnetostat tweeter which has a 18 dB slope for protection and low distortion. The Dynaudo D54 54 mm dome is designed to handle 6 dB filtering and the Vifa 8 inch woofer has a flat curve and easy reproduces 1 Khz and forms a great match with the dome midrange. The dome midrange has a natural fall off at about 6 KHz. There is no coil for the high cut off because of this natural fall off. The magnetostat tweeter on the other hand has a 18 dB filter because these small diaphragms do not like big amplitudes of movement.

The driver lay out is more like a 2+ way because the woofer and dome midrange cover 30 - 6000 Hz together. This means in practice that bass and midrange do the most important part of the music and the tweeter does only the really high frequency's. The dome midrange is the core driver of this design because it's wide dispersion in the room gives the sound a natural character, even if you are outside the room. This specific character of dome midranges you hear very well when voices and saxophone is reproduced. It has this natural dispersion of sound in a room like a voice or instrument has.

Other objective was to avoid resonance and standing waves in the enclosure and the use of "dead" material without much ringing. The MDF baffle is covered in the inside with ceramic tiles (glued) to avoid sound leaving the enclosure. It is forming a acoustic barrier because of the two very different resonance frequency's of MDF and ceramic. The bass unit needed to be able to play up to 1 KHz and be able to reproduce the low-mid frequency's (voices ect.) with clarity and low distortion. This means a light (23 gram) non resonant poly cone with good damping like this filled poly cone from the Vifa 21WP250, which by the way play's very low in this 40 Liter enclosure.

I build a TL line subwoofer to add the low frequencies from 25 - 40 Hz with a 12 dB cut of at 40 Hz. The sub has a line of 3.2 meters and is 220 cm long.
Afbeelding van WhatsApp op 2024-12-13 om 14.45.18_89fc8b41.jpg
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Wanted to share the pleasure of building and listening..
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Silencio design and build

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Klipsch RF-82's Questions

So I have a 7.1 setup in my living room for HT and music. I love everything about how the Klipsch sound, very warm, suits my tastes well etc. My problem is that I can't seem to get the very distorted type of midrange that you typically hear from a good electric guitar amplifier. I'm talking about the grunge sound, the type that tingles your ears and is commonly present in alternative and rock music. The Klipsch seem to reproduce everything cleanly and accurately but for some reason I can't seem to understand how a good guitar amplifier wins in these particular frequencies. Any thoughts on why that would be? I simply haven't heard a HT or car audio system that is able to reproduce that particular set of frequency in such a "brute yet pleasing" way, my klipsch setup being no exception.

My system is far from perfect and the placement of the speakers and subwoofer are terrible, but this doesn't seem to correlate with what i'm talking about because even high quality setups with a lot of work put into the placement and tuning can't produce the sound I'm looking for.

My setup:

2 Klipsch Rf-82's for fronts.
1 klipsch Rc-52 for center
2 Klipsch Rf-62's for rears
2 Klipsch Rb-51's for sides
1 Klipsch rw12d Subwoofer in corner
1 Integra (Onkyo) receiver 7 channel 90 watts per channel.

Is it simply the live instrument will always be better than speakers? Even though Electric guitars technically play through a speaker, funny thing is typically the guitar amplifier combos have much worse components than my setup, yet they can play those particular frequencies that my system can't..

So is it not enough distortion in the speakers?
Not enough power to the speakers?
These speakers can't produce a similar sound no matter what?
My receiver is too cheap?
My placement is off?
My room has bad acoustics?
The audio files I listen to strip this type of sound out?
The digital processing in the receiver finds these sounds too harsh and cleans them up?

Or something completely different? Any thoughts?

All replies greatly appreciated no matter how useless or uneducated, all welcome aboard.🙄

The amplifiers I find most terrifying to understand...

At least for me are the Studers...I remember one of my first ampilifiers I built to replace fried STK chips in musician's amplifiers 2 decades ago was based on bridged tda2040 supplied with just one 14...16 v rail and using the same topology as the one used by Studer in the transformer line out .What was really interesting was that musician's educated ears told me that amp sounded much better than the original STK.I always wondered if I accidentally discovered the most underated amplifier topology...cause it seems like the most natural way to fight back emf taking the whole signal from the opposite side of the speaker coil...

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Elekit TU-8500 Preamp Kit Build - My First Build

My first real build.... I built a little tube preamp from Amazon to actually test my skills before investing in a nice kit.

Well. This is a great piece of work. The instructions are great. The level of prefab is awesome. It really is a big jigsaw puzzle with a set of directions on how to figure it out!

I was really happy with the placement of the components. I didn't find anything incredibly hard to solder. All the pads were of good size so that the iron could get in and make a good joint. I actually thought the hardest thing to solder would have been the two ICs but in actuality I only really was concerned with the 1/8" jack.

I was very happy to get the kit together in an evening. Well, I got about 2/3 done in one evening and then finished it over lunch the next day. I was excited to have it power up and work on the first try! All the inputs including the phono work fine!

I built this because my Musical Paradise MP-301 integrated amp doesn't have a phono input. Running my turntable through to this amp made some sweet sweet sounds fill the room. I also tried pulling audio from my JDS Labs Element DAC, through the 8500, and out to my Koss Electrostatic headphones. Also great success!

I have encountered one issue, however. The flat gain switch is giving me odd behavior. When changing to 1x gain it seems like only one channel, the right, is going to the lower gain while the left says at the same level. I double checked the solder joints on the switch and they all look good. I took the board out and checked through everything and just can't seem to find a bad connection. I'd really like to get some pointers on what to check. It seems odd that at high gain things are good but low gain a channel performs weird.

I'm not the best at easing a schematic but I guess I'll have to pull it out and start poking around with a meter. A bad or off tube wouldn't be the culprit, would it?

In all I'm really happy with this kit. I really like Elekit's approach and the whole thing is top notch. I guess I'm now leaning on building the 300B amp!

SPK Audio FR03E(3" Full-range) sold only in Japan

SPK Audio FR03E (3" Full-range)

This is a low-priced product at about $22 per unit, but it is an excellent product that does not produce a natural and unpleasant sound.

Login to view embedded media

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FS: XRK FH9HVX amplifer set (amplifer boards + PSU + toroid transformer + heatsinks)

I have for sale complete kit (only chassis is missing) for assembling (gorgeous sounding) XRK FH9HVX amplifier. Kit consist of:

a) Set (2x) of XRK FH9HVX amplifer, carefully assembled with premium parts (Nichicon FG, Panasonic FC capacitors, Mundurf EVO 1,5 uF input capacitor). Output mosfets are ON SEMI FQA36P15/FQA40N25 type. All other parts equal to BOM. Set also includes (8xM3 standoffs and 4x AAVID Aluminium Oxide Ceramic washers). Weight is 200g / piece.

SOLD
AMP I.JPG


b) Set (2x) power supply boards. Each board consist of 4x6800uF 63V Vishay capacitors and 8 fast recovery diodes in dual bridge configuration. Dimension of board is 115x70x30mm. Weight is 220g / piece.

SOLD
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c) Toroid transfomer (1x) 500VA, 1x230Vac primary and 4x35Vac secondary voltages. It is special audio version with lower flux in ferrite core. Dimensions are 135x65 mm. Weight is 4,7 kg.

SOLD
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d) Pair od Fischer elektronik heatsinks with dimensions of 300x120x40 mm. No eloxation. There are profesionally made M3 threads for FH9HVX amp and PSU board provided on both heatsinks. Weight is 1,9 kg / piece.

SOLD
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If you take all kit above, shipping into EU (tracking included, no insurance) would be free. Payment via PayPal.

Strange off topic PSU question

I have a strange issue with the PSU of an elliptical.

The factory supplied unit is a linear wall wart type. Rated on the case at 6V 1000mA.

It accidentally got crushed between the wall and a piece of furniture so I decided to save the trafo for a future project and buy a new PSU from Amazon. SMPS rated at 6V 1A. Plugged it into the elliptical and the display turned on but very dim. When I try to adjust the tension on the flywheel, it barely increases from minimum.

I figured it's not meeting spec and returned it. Next I bought another SMPS, this time rated at 6V and 2A. Plugged it in and same issues. Measured it and it's doing 6.2V so it's not faulty.

Why would a linear PSU work but two different SMPSs with the same (or higher) rating not work? I'm baffled.

Fake LM 3886 IC at Electronicscomp.com

I recently bought 2pcs LM3886 IC from
LM3886 IC - 68W High Performance Audio Power Amplifier IC buy online at Low Price in India - ElectronicsComp.com

They show LM3886T on the website. Then supply LM3886TF.
Further it is fake. When i put in circuit it blown my mains fuse & also track on PCB. Then I checked the 2nd piece along with one that was with me working.
Even the leads length was short.

So don't buy from this supplier. Be cautious.

Very bad response when made complaint.
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Cheap multichannel DACs: Sound Blaster X3 vs Xonar U7

Hello,
I own a Xonar U7 usb soundcard that I plan to use in a budget multichannel system, but I have two concerns:
  • only 1 volt line output
  • two different dac chips: CS4398 for the main 2 channels, and the lesser CS4362 for the rest

The low output voltage bothers me....

I am thinking on getting a Sound Blaster X3, that has a 8 channel AKM AK4458vn (don't know if it is an upgrade relative to the CS4398), but more relevant for me, does anybody know what is the output voltage of th Sound Blaster X3? Cannot find it anywhere

Thanks!

WTB: Tube Preamp (1+ Inputs, Volume)

Hi,

I am just looking to buy a simple tube preamp to run into a primare a30.2 amplfier. I would rather buy someone's interesting diy project than a cheap aliexpress one but I also don't have the resources to build my own. Perhaps someone on here has an extra tube preamp project laying around that they could sell? I just need one input and output but more is fine. Located in WA.

Thanks for considering.

Denon 103 played through an arm with an Eff Mass of 35 grams

After the interesting discussion I had with some members regarding this subject ''Cheap MC cart compatibly'' on another forum. I decided to put my new developed removable Head-Shell arm on my main rig. Increase the Eff Mass to 35 grams, courteously of two large daubs of Blue-tac. To set the cart tracking weight to 2.1 grams I had to add an extra counterweight to my arm. Connected it up to my favorite MC phono amp and played through some of my favourite LP's.

So how did it sound, well it sounded absolutely marvelous

Cheers

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Coaxial driver advice

Hey Guys

I’m looking to build a pair of speakers for my living room. They will be mounted on the back wall. The room is 60 m2 with 5 meter ceiling height. So pretty big room🙂

I using a sub from about 100 Hz and down, and the speaker drivers will be high-passed.

The speakers will be active with a Hypex module or similar.

I’m looking for a 10” or 12” coaxial driver that will work in a sealed cabinet.

I’ve tried a couple of PA coaxial drivers and they all have this thin or shrill quality that I don’t like. I’m looking for a driver that sounds warmer than that.

I’m hoping some of you have the perfect suggestion for me. I don’t mind buying used. Maybe there’s even an old Altec or JBL coax that will work?

Hope you can help🙂

Kind regards,
Mads

A question about testing for noise

So I have recently completed my first chipamp ( https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/a-first-lm3886-project.386817/#post-7040805 ). To the ear it is whisper quiet but I do like to verify things and so was seeking to measure the output without any signal. I have a Levell Microvoltmeter and it serves me well.

Initially I just connected it up with nothing at all connected to the inputs and got an impressively low noise of 210muV - both channels the same.

But I thought the inputs should be shorted to get a proper measurement and so knocked up a shorting RCA plug (soldered shield to core of a very short lead - photo attached. It did have some shrink tubing on but I removed that just to make sure it really was soldered under there. Also tried with another similar lead) and used that. The measured noise goes up! I measure 1.2mV with that shorted lead attached. Of course in neither case is anything audible without sticking and ear almost in the speaker driver - but I would like to know what is going on.

I am using the 20Hz to 100kHz bandwidth setting on the Levell but all other settings are consistent (obviously noise goes down for narrower bandwidth and up for wider.

I am mystified. Is that even very short lead picking up something? Why isn't the 'something' just shorted to ground?

IMG_5469.jpeg

looking for good audio grade toggle switches

I'm looking for a line of "quality" toggle switches. These will be used for switching line level audio signals. These will be used in a microphone preamplifier for things like phantom power, phase reverse, hi/lo impedance, pad and so on. I think they all can be DPDT. I need them to have an excellent "feel" and to take some minor abuse and gold contacts would be nice. and if they could have a traditional or even retro look that is best.

I've got many switches in my parts box but none I like. I guess because I keep going for low price. This time I need "audio grade" switches. Price is still important as I might need a dozen of them for a two channel preamp.

I'm in the US, in California. so I'm looking for a US source of supply. The trouble is that there are so many. Hundreds of switches.

Mark Audio Alpair 10.x/FF165wk compact Floorstander Intro & Questions

We have developed a new compact floorstander for the Alpair 10p, A10.3, A10.2 and Fostex FF165wk.

As well as plans for these going into the appropriate plan-sets, we are planning on doing flat-paks of these, and want to inquire as to whether front or rear vent is preferred (designer prefers the latter)

Chris has a new front row for his HT based on the A10p prototypes (with metal grills -- the Pensil 7 for comparison).

A10p-trap-FS-comp.jpg


Here is an extents drawing which shows how compact these are. A10p, A10.2, FF165wk are the sameoutside demensions, the A10.3 is narrower (same as the EL70 trapezoid FS these were developed from (bottom picture)

A10x-trap-FS-extentsX.gif


The original MAr-Ken70 trapezoid Floorstander (the small speaker in front, in solid yellow cedar by Bernie)

MK70-trap-FS3-comp.jpg


dave

FS: A lot of PCB's

Here we go...
Hiraga 2 PCB's 5 euro each
JLH 2 PCB's 5 euro each
Lynx V3 8 PCB's 7,5 euro each
F4 4 PCB's 7,5 euro each
Aleph30 4PCB's 10 euro each
AlephJ 12PCB's 10 euro each
Aleph mini 2 PCB's 5 euro each
Hawk A18 2 PCB's 13,5 euro each
MC phono (Peter Daniels design) 1 PCB + SMD opamps + Xformer - make me an offer.

Also have 4 PCB sets (Driver board, 2 output boards, 1 powersupply board. These will build a Pass X=amp with 20 fets per channel
Pls PM for more details. PCB's are designed for output currents of 50Amps.

P.S. for the Pass lovers....Have a lot of selected fets laying around that are VERY closely matched.

Carver Magnetic Field Power Amp -whazzit????

I don't know 'what' this gizmo is so I put it here. Can anyone explain what a Bob Carver Magnetic Firled Power Amplifier is? I have wondered about this for long enough. There is a pair on ebay now here. < http://cgi.ebay.com/Pair-Bob-Carver...839295670QQcategoryZ71544QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem >

With a name like that I have visions of a saturable reactor being used as the amplifying device. Am I correct?
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Better bass? How and why?

I've had two prominent speaker designers tell me bass can only get so good. The Bordeaux loudspeakers for example, has its designer stating he doesn't know how to get better Bass then the Dayton audio reference series can give him according to the Distortion measurements ge gets.
Another designer says never spend mire than the cost if LRoy woofers ... because your SQ will not improve.
Are there bass drivers that actually sound better, IF the distortion is already super low?
Thanks for the education!

Kenwood KR-6600 amp board advice

Hello all, newbie here who created their own issue - shorted the wrong pins when connecting meter to set bias. When I did this a pop happened and all the sudden the 180ohm R58 resistor went glowing red. I have 180 ohm resistors to replace this one, however I’m wondering if this is a protection type resistor that stopped further damage. The four main transistors on the power amp board all seem to check out fine and do not seem to be shorted. I see no other evidence (visually) of any other burnt up resistors, just this one.
any advice you can give I would greatly appreciate it. I’m including a pic of the board showing that resistor and a copy of the service manual if needed.
This will be powered back up with dim bulb tester in line next time as well

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How to Fabricate Amp Cage?

Hi all,,, I have this great little Bogen amp chassis that needs a cage cover, about 4" high, 7" deep & 11" long. I saw the perfect metal at Home Depot, but don't know how to quite pull it off. I tried looking for YT tutorials, but all you find is Farady & bird cages. Please check my photos for 2 different cage styles on my exact amp. I'm sure I wouldn't need a degree in Origami, but any tips? I'm not looking to do the exact replacement, just a rectangular cover that would be open air on all 5 sides.
Thanks all & stay well!!

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Sony CDP-30 Won't Read TOC - Diagnosis Thread

Looking for expert attention. I will add photos and hard info later.

CDP-30 from thrift store. The manual says KSS-121A but really it's KSS-120C. RF Amp is CX20109, Focus/Tracking/Sled is CX20108, DSP/CLV is CX23035.

Clean, powers up, display bright, laser lights up, seeks and locks focus, spins, locks tracking, but does not lock spindle, and gives up again.

In Test Mode (uC pin 22 grounded), it keeps spinning but still does not lock. Speed goes up and down, never stopping or winding up super fast. MIRR is low (false) with bursts of high. GFS is low (false) with occasional pips.

Objective lens tracks for some seconds then jumps and resumes tracking, so sled is not moving. This may be uC intentional because I know the sled can move - if I mess up E-F balance far enough, the sled wobbles outward or inward on its own.

Initially RF was absent, but I think the sled was hard against the stop due to dirty contacts on the limit switch. With exercise, limit started to close and now when I crank the sled outward by hand then unload/load, it cranks in and stops when limit closes, and we get some RF, presumably the TOC.

RF is weak and (of course) blurry, with dropouts that IIRC are not once per rev but some slower pace, not necessarily regular.

Here's a clue, I think. If I unlock tracking (by grounding TE at RV104 slider), RF increases. A lot. (That is, the maximum increases; minimum is zero as we drift off the pit spiral on every revolution.) Maximum amplitude is a volt-something for sure. When I allow tracking to lock again, RF goes weak again.

What do you think, grating's come loose? (Plus the failure to lock spindle, which might be a separate problem.)

Thanks,
Dave

6 Channel Amplifier for LXMini+2

Hello,

I recently got LXMini+2 and really like the sound. It offers big spacious sound that is hard to get from boxed speakers.

I would like to ask other LXMini+2 owners what amplifiers use and recommend. I am currently using a cheapo 6 channel class D amp from PartsExpress and would like to upgrade within a reasonable budget.
https://www.parts-express.com/Sure-AA-AB34181-6x100W-TDA7498-Class-D-Amplifier-Board-320-307

I found that most of the multichannel amps are AV receivers when I google 6 channel amplifiers.

If you are using LXMini+2, may I know what amp you are powering them with? I see that Emotiva power amp is common choice and wondering if there are better ones out there without spending a lot of money.

I am also okay with DIY route too if it is not too hard to make them.

Thank you very much for your suggestion in advance. 🙂

DSP options?

I can't as yet build the needed new subwoofers due to the budget restraints related to Covid.
Pulled the old passive boxes from the shed and they need some help to boost the bottom end. I was going to buy a new XO unit and use the parametric EQ of the Behringer Ultradrive DCX2496LE [ replacing the current CX 3400] but there is a cheaper option in the Dayton DSP unit.

Just a quick and dirty solution to get some bass boost down low

These are the CerwinVega Vega124s in large sealed boxes; which can take more power than I currently have available, and the pair is also the stands for the tops
Funds are tight and if the cheap unit would work I'll go with what I can afford

DSP for a DIY version of Genelec W371A. Possible?

I've been toying with this idea for awhile, to build subwoofers like the Genelec W371A. I've read about DSP for multiple subwoofers for years, so I feel this is a clever application of those ideas. But I'm not sure if there is an off the shelf DSP that can do the job? A MiniDSP 4x10 would have enough channels. The mains would have to be on the same DSP

For background, what Genelec is doing is combining a front firing 14" woofer and a rear firing 12" subwoofer in the same cabinet. The frequency range of the 2 drivers overlap, and the different placement of the 2 drivers is enough to create different room nodes. The EQ takes advantage of the different room nodes from each driver and adjusts both drivers individually so together they create a flat response.

I already did some rudimentary testing of this concept. I have 2 M-Audio BX subwoofers, and I stacked them on top of each other, with the bottom speaker facing the rear and the top facing the front. The height of the two subs stacked was 34". I also added spacers to get 41", and again raised it to match the Genelec's 43" height. This test is NOT meant to represent what Genelec's product does, but it is intended to see how much of an effect this unique speaker alignment makes.

I found that the 34" height showed the most difference in room nodes, in my very not good room. (The subs were spaced ~32" from the wall.) The effect seemed to diminish with height, but I expect it begins increasing again at a certain height.

I also found that it works for a limited frequency range, between 60hz and 200hz. The response curve above and below were identical in all tests.

This leads me to believe that Genelec have a trick they do not mention in their marketing--they sum the low frequencies below ~60hz and below! The driver separation on the individual w371 is not enough, so the low frequencies are split between the two W371 units, using the same DSP trick.

I think this last trick is the one that is hardest to pull off for an off the shelf DSP? Is it possible to low cut two stereo channels at 60hz, sum everything below 60hz, and combine that summed signal back into the original stereo signals?

Measurements via FuzzMeasure:

34" stack

34 subwoofer stack.jpg


41" stack

41 subwoofer stack.jpg


43" stack

43 subwoofer stack.jpg

Weather Change and Bias

I built and initially biased my F5 going into summer last year. Lately with the onset of winter the ambiant temperature has dropped down into single figures. Yesterday I fired up the F5 when I noticed it sounded a little thin. I checked the bias and noticed it had dropped down from 0.59 to about 0.56v, DC offsets had gone up to around 10mV.

Is this normal when ambient temps change this much?

When I built and biased the amp, ambient temps where about 25degC., they're now down around 8 degC. I checked the thermistors, they've not moved. Bias voltage are stable so I figure the thermistors are good, its just the bias dropped as outlined.

Audax pr170mo Woofer selection... which 15 inch woofer 98db eff...

hi everyone

I already have my Audax pr170mo and audax pr120 in a 30L sealed box and Im looking for a hi-efficiency woofer, around 98db eff that can reach down to f3: 35hz. im willing to use a very big bass enclosure (up to 250L) if needed.

ill use a 400hz 1st order XO

my choice so far for hi-efficiency 15 inch woofer are:

Eminence omega pro15
Beyma 15b100
Audax PR330M0
JBL 2226h

Id like more recommendations and suggestions!

my budget is max 600$ for the pair.


thanks a lot

Cabinet volume question / woofers

Ok this might be a dumb question but here goes.

when constructing a cabinet and using two woofers do you follow the recommendations from the woofer specs which for example might say 30 liters?
So for using two woofers you would have to use at least a cabinet with 60 liters of volume ?

is it also dependent on the crossover?
what cabinet size would be needed for let’s say a
2nd order
3rd order
4th order?

much appreciated !

Removing SMD components; masking

I am preparing to remove a pair of smd clocks, and was going to flood them with solder and remove them. The potential issue is that there are some very small capacitors nearby that would be best left if possible.

Has anyone successfully used a masking scheme to prevent any solder from disturbing nearby parts?

Painters tape would even work, any residue removed using a mild solvent, or alcohol.

Magnetic feet

I am not sure if this has been discussed yet. The search function did not give any hit.
Let's take two neodymium disc magnets with their same magnetic pole facing to each other, so there is a repelling force between them. The closer they are the bigger is the force. Put the magnets in a somewhat larger diameter PVC or copper tube, and support from both ends with some cylindrical rods.
This construction could act as a spring, used as feet of a turntable, amplifier, loudspeaker etc. If more weight should be supported, more magnets could be added.
Has anybody tried it?

Single-crystal OCC Wire - Can It Make a Difference?

I recently posted up a request for good sources of OCC wire to make some nice DIY cables of all sorts. I'm still waiting on the materials to make the cables, but I was wondering what the community here thinks about the possibility of higher-purity single-crystal wire having better signal transmission properties than the same gauge of wire made up of many grains?

Here's the theory as I understand it (copied and pasted from my forum posting asking for sources of OCC wire):

Everything made of atoms has a structure to it. In metals, this structure is crystalline below specific temperatures (when they are solid), which occurs at a different temperature for each metal. Take a look at some of these microstructures of the crystals that make up metals:

crystalgrain1.jpg
crystalgrain2.jpg
crystalgrain3.jpg



And wherever the crystal structures (or "grains") meet within the material, you have microscopic "grain boundaries," like this:


CrystalGrainBoundary.jpg



When electricity travels through material, it has an easier time (less resistance) flowing across fewer grain boundaries. Electricity obviously jumps gaps, either at the atomic level, or at the macro level like how electric current can literally jump across the air from a door handle to your fingertips when you have enough of an charge-differential between yourself and the door handle, say after your feet have exchanged enough electrons with a wool rug.

Check out this primer on the flow of electrons to create electric current >>

The organization of the crystalline structure of a metal wire is dependent upon the purity of the material used, and more importantly the manufacturing process of the wire itself. By using casting techniques at controlled temperatures, it is possible to create metal materials which are organized as one continuous crystal structure as opposed to a fractured assembly of crystal structures, with far fewer grain boundaries. One guy who did this is Dr. Ohno (queue that awful TikTok song) who patented the "Ohno Continuous Casting" process (OCC).

Here are microphotographs of the crystal structure in OFC (oxygen free copper) vs OCC copper for illustration:

occ.jpg



So far these are well-settled scientific facts, not audio theory.

The theory is that by allowing the modulating voltage of the signal to move more continuously along a single crystal structure, unimpeded by the normal breakages you'd find in the many-crystal formation of the regular metal material, you will get a smoother signal.

I have heard the argument that resistance is resistance, and that's how wire should be measured. That feels a bit like comparing 90 mph in a Ford Taurus vs 90 mph in a Porsche 911. The speed gun shows 90 mph on either one, right? But your experience of traveling that same speed in a vehicle designed for high speed will result in a smoother ride. The comparison here refers to the musicality of a cable. Maybe resistance isn't just resistance, and maybe there are other factors involved which do affect the end result that reaches our ears, which we are more sensitive to, and which don't have discrete measurements.

It would be cool if everyone could stay respectful in this, sticking to your own opinion without judging others' opinions. I'm just wondering what everyone's take is on this.

So...can a single continuous crystal structure of metal material help audio signal transmission? Would single-crystal metal make no difference whatsoever? What do you think?

Purchase of usb I2S converter

I would need a recommendation for USB to I2S converter. I need the best possible sound quality. There are too many producers and sellers and it is not easy to find your way around. Is there any sound difference between xmos XU208 and XU216?

I like jl-sounds for its wide range of settings and options external masterclock, xmos from diyinhk has compared to that a more powerful XMOS chip. I don't need a flip flop reclock or isolated i2s. Diyinhk do not offer any datasheet for their product. It is not good to buy only according to the picture, even if iz has more powerful xmos. Masterclock from diyinhk is only 49,xxMhz? I have older DAC, i need also 24,xx MHz MCLK.

Thank you.

I2SoverUSB - I2S over USB Audio
Home
XMOS 768kHz DXD DSD512(DSD1024) high-quality USB Type-C to I2S/DSD PCB - DIYINHK

Coaxial drivers for ultimate speaker?

I have come a long way building loudspeakers, first with traditional passive crossovers and then switched to most advanced custom digital crossovers using Analog Sharc DSP processors. Also I have always used upper market drivers like higher Scan Speak or Seas lines. Based on this experience and experimenting with different designs and DSP I believe the best concept to build an ultimate quality loudspeaker is using a coaxial driver or possibly a fullrange plus tweeter. The key justification is our ears are much more sensitive to timing dimension than to the frequency reponse. This is getting more and more recognition recently in hi-fi, see e.g. MQA technology.
Coaxials or fullrange are much better suited to time dimension fidelity but a question I am not sure about is are there drivers on the market that offer comparable overall speaker parameter quality as the best classical drivers ? Or is it more a niche segment where no serious R&D is happening ?
I am not interested in opinions how coaxials/fullranges "sound" since it is way too much dependent on the individual appplication and conditions. It is more about their technical parameters, technology advancement and overall technical potential. I am not too much worried about problems in frequency response either since I can correct them using DSP . Although unfortunately any DSP also distorts the timing since otherwise it could not work. So what I need is decent FR and best possible impulse response in possibly 150Hz - 15kHz range delivered from a point source over this range.
The ones that I have looked so far were Seas Prestige coaxials and Jordan Eikona fullrange.
What are your opinions or experiences with coaxials/fullranges ?

Magnus 1400 "Cathedral" chord organ - any info?

I just picked this up for next to nothing on FB Marketplace. Very cool piece!

I can't find any reference to this model anywhere, nor any pictures. It appears to be the "mack daddy" of the Magnus Electric Chord Organ line - it has every feature that I've ever seen on a Magnus; 37 key manual with switchable chorus, major and minor chord box, 8 bass tabs, voicing switches, tremolo, and a surprisingly beefy tube amp (push-pull EL84, with three 12AX7 for preamp, tremolo oscillator, and phase inverter, EZ81 rectifier) going into a comically-undersized 8" ceramic speaker. The transformers date to late 1961, so it's probably a 1962 model.

The acoustic portion works perfectly - quiet blower, no hung notes, no sticky keys, all chords and bass notes work. The amp needs some work, but hopefully it's something simple; the rectifier lights up, but none of the other heaters come on, so I suspect loose/broken heater wiring. Regardless, barring a blown transformer, I'm sure I can fix it.

Unfortunately the manual is about 20 cents sharp, and the bass tabs are a full quarter-tone sharp, but that's what Melodyne is for, right?

I'll add pictures later when I get a chance. In the meantime, is anyone else familiar with this model, or can anyone provide any other context? Thanks!

Is Room Correction Always Really Necessary?

There seems to be a certain train of thought in this forum that room correction is always necessary. That every room must have some sort of absorbers or reflectors in order to get the best sound possible for you to enjoy. And there are no exceptions or differences as a function of the type of music you listen to. At least that’s the impression that you get when reading a lot of the posts here.

But is that really true? Well some experts certainly don’t think so. Take for example Toole where in his book on page 197 he says:

…”we decided that absorbing side wall reflections seemed to flatter some recordings (mostly pop/rock) while leaving the walls reflective flattered others (mostly classical and jazz).
Conclusion: one size does not fill all. Personal taste, music and the reason for listening are all significant variables.”

But here we see many people who insist on room correction as a must regardless of the type of music being played or any other variables.

It seems to me that the need for room correction, if any, is a lot more complicated and is based on many more individual details than often presented here.

Current Sharing in parallel diodes

I was thinking about current sharing in parallel damper diodes (or diode wired triodes for that matter). Not being able to find a rule of thumb I decided to crank up LTspice and see what I could see as it were.

To simulate fairly mismatched diodes I used two somewhat similar triodes in the form of 12AU7 and 6SN7. As a first pass I ran a single 12AU7 and divided current by voltage drop and got an effective resistance of 2K. This is no where near the data sheet Rp but I just ran with it. Now with the two "diodes" in parallel with a 2K resistor in each plate I got a 10% current difference v.s. 32% with none (1 ohm) and 27% with 200 ohm resistors.

I suppose the 200 ohm would be "safe" but the 2K seems really solid given that the simulation was with totally different triodes.

Does anyone have a rule of thumb that they use?

CurrecntShare.png

YBA CD3 with Sanyo SF-P1 lens tracking problem : Please help.

Hi,

The player is unable to read TOC and play cd discs frequently.

The lens is cleaned.

Attached photos of the player showing tuning ports that can be adjusted to make the player track properly again. They are F OFFSET, F GAIN, E/F BAL, T OFFSET, T GAIN, K GAIN, PLL F.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


F GAIN, F OFFSET, E/F BAL was tuned ( rotated anti-clockwise ) years back by the authorised agent when the player had the same issue.

If you have knowledge with Sanyo SF-P1 lens / circuitry / tuning, give your advice.

I have ordered a New identical original SF-P1 lens to replace. Should i set all the tuning ports to original factory makings after changing the lens?

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Regards.

Placement of resistors in signal path.

Good evening, I just wonder. Maybe this is a silly question but here we go. Say we have a construction that have a resistor in signal path, then a another component then a resistor again. Or even 3 resistors in the signal path. But say we have two. And you have picked up two resistors that you will go for, say Shinkoh Tantalum and Vishay VAR / Charcroft Z-foil The first one natural and tiny warm / colored and the second one neutral with no coloration. Witch to place first in line, the one that has the clean sound or the one that set the " coloration / warmth ? Or does it not matter? Or why mix two different brands, just go for one brand ? ( I know I with many like to mix parts to maybe get the good stuff from both parts ).

Frank

Texas Instruments LM4700 chip amp

Why isnt there any information on the Texas Instruments site about their Overture high chip amplifier LM4700 ?

Search results - TI.com

4700 suggest its "the newer and follow up version of" 3886, yet it has become obsolete. Why?

Also how does this LM4700 compare to the LM3886 in terms of high fidelity audio quality?

Is TI's LM3886 after all those years still their "highest fidelity" chip amp in the critical 1W ~ 10W range?
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