Like new, verry little use in original packing in 2 x 1 m lenght. Price 150 euro plus 7,90 euro shipping inside EU.
Verry good sounding cable. Payment Paypal for friends or bank transfer.

Hi all,

Been trying to get my hands on the DIYSG 1099s and MTMs for over 2 years now.. they seem to get bought out minutes after any stock is available.. and while during the pandemic I understood it might be hard.. it seems we're still not seeing any stock in at all.

I love to build things.. built a few speakers/subs in my days.. and want to build some custom but great sounding home theater speakers.. a full set.. LCR, surrounds, atmos, etc. They would all be powered by external amps and speaker wire runs.

I am looking to build two sets.. one set is for a smaller family room.. so the 1099s would be way too big. Something with a single 8, possibly a waveguide 1" or so.. but can be on par in terms of the 91 to 94db sensitivity the drivers that DIYSG uses (which I think are eminence? Not sure).

I've never heard any of the DIYSG speakers.. but they have amazing reviews.. and the HT8 and 1099s seem to be plenty loud for very large theater rooms, but more so have quality sound from what I have read rivaling much more expensive speakers.

So.. was hoping someone has found a few designs/drivers, crossover details, etc.. that have turned out amazing, but still cost a lot less. I liked the idea of the larger 1099s being about $500 a pop with wood. I'd obviously like to have something more affordable than that for smaller cabinets.

I am planning on running a 100watt to 200watt per channel amp.. talking Monoprice amps.. the big heavy ones that put out a really solid 100 to 200 watts, not a cheap thx receiver 7 channel amp in a 10lb receiver. So ideally whatever speakers that can be sourced and sound great.. can handle 100watts or so.. even though especially in a smaller room that volume is not necessary.. I like having more room.. so as to use less and not worry about blown out.. overheating, etc.

Thank you.

Blue Jeans cable argues for the case of using high-quality coax cable for stereo (analog) unbalanced interconnects or phono cable.
The stiffness issue aside, any thoughts about the uses of coax for normal (say 1m) interconnects with decent unbalanced RCA terminations?

https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/audio/LC1-design-notes.htm

Hi all!
I happen to have an Altec Lansing 515E and want to build an enclosure for it. Vented? sealed?
I'd like a smooth response for listening to music at no more than 85dBc.
The sub will sit near my Kef speakers whose frequency response (-3dB) low end sits at 54Hz

quick info about the Altec 515E (http://alteclansingunofficial.nlenet.net/Thiele-Small.html)

Xmax inch 0.18
Xmax mm 4.572
Re (ohm) 12
Vd (cubic inches) 23
Vd (liter) 0.377
Fs (Hz) 22.90
Vas (cubic feet) 23.50
Vas (liter) 665.446
Ref % 4
Qts 0.19
Qms 7.50
Qes 0.19

WinISD tell me an EBP of 120,53

thank you very much

Hi I have been building and experimenting with various configurations of a two way speaker. I also tested various three way designs and found that I prefer the sonic response and simplicity of a two way speaker to a three way for my home listening purposes at midfield distance and volume. The speaker I have settled on for now is a single 15 inch woofer crossed at 700hz and a 1.4 inch compression driver mounted to a wave guide. I would like to expand the low frequency section to either two 15 inch woofers or four 12 inch woofers. Is there an advantage to the four 12s over the two 15s with regards to bass and mid frequency response given the 700hz crossover point? Thanks.

Jay

the best for 2023 to Diya members, may the peace be with you

I am wondering about the cone material sound signature of some midrange units. Of course, all things being equals, i.e layout, designer's talent, etc. At the end, a driver must be chosen.

Kevlar is often talked for its neutrality, known as far I remember since the 80s. I do not remember the Focal and Davis sound of those days, never heard the yellows ScanSpeak, but B&W is known for good ones in the 800 series and cheaper models too.

I liked the Seas Excell woven composit midwoofer (woven plastic à la Discovery SS line) ? Peereless silver serie with its glass fiber, as wavecore with its odd glass fibers non woven cone are all said very good. Ok cone material is not alone in the driver sound but its sounding signature is often particular.

What your experiences over more classic euphonic paper cones for instance. I was lurking on drivers I can affoard for my budget midwoofer for a short 250 hz to 1100/1500 hz app. with a 6"-ish size and due to average budget several ref are appealing me for that midwoofer task with minimum 90/91 2.83V sensivity:


https://dibirama.altervista.org/hom...p-6-108pro-mid-woofer-6-5-8-ohm-150-wmax.html (carbon composit. woved ?)

https://www.bmsspeakers.com/index.php-314.html?id=5s117_curves0 (paper cone)

and a less modern challenger but 8" pro mid (certainly more difficult for passive filter newbie to tame the upper range) https://dibirama.altervista.org/hom...udax-hm210z10-mid-range-8-8-ohm-240-wmax.html

There are 2 papers with PHL Audio and BMS : pro but low THD

The Kartesian LOM seems modern with interresting T&S : low Qts and low mechanical loss, certainly detailled... but that old woven cone is less tempting than fiber glass !

I wanted to put a more expensive Wavecore with its glass fiber cone, but 4 ohms is too much lowish impedance to reach the 90 to 91 dB sensivity needed to handle some baffle step compensation.

Any though please ? Is it just euphonic paper VS colder Composit or not important and better to focus on the H3/H5 harmonics and T&S parameters as well as datasheet magnitude.

Thanks

Hello,

I just found out this week that my 211 SE tube amp is 25 years old. It sounds so good I never want to get rid of it. This amp generates a fair amount of heat and is a nice heater in the winter. But heat and age eventually wear components down. What are the most likely components I should look into replacing in this amplifier? I have already replaced some wire wound resistors that had a glazed look to them. There are some electrolyte capacitors in the tube circuit, and film capacitors as well. The big power supply has 6 transformers, 4 chokes, Diode rectifiers, some very big solen film caps and two Agastat delay timer tubes? for the turn on sequence at power on.

Im new here and am looking for a reputable repair person to work on a number of my Hifonics VII amps I've saved from the early 90's. If anyone can refer me to this person please respond.

I've just bought a Fosi Audio BT10A. It works straight out of the box but seems to have a fairly severe bass cut built in to it. I'm using it with some quater wave speakers with a decent bass response and there's just no oomph below 100 Hz. Is this a characteristic of the BT10A or is it a limitation of bluetooth? I've never used a BT amp before.

My second question is, is there a fix? I'm an electronics engineer so if there's a simple mod with a soldering iron, I'm all ears. Sadly, I suspect it's all done in software.

Edit to say it is fine when using the aux in, it is just bluetooth that has a high pass filter.

I made this post on a thread that was way off track on a different forum, I couldn't find the right forum so I will try here, maybe a moderator can move it the correct forum.

There was a post that stated the room followed by the speakers as the biggest influence on the sound stage and imagining if I actually understand what those terms mean. But there was mention of what creates these things being an allusion that our brains create. It seems this part was passed over very quickly but I find incredibly interesting for personal reasons.

I only realized that my brain worked differently than most people I know in the last few years, actually I knew it, but I didn't understand how it is different. By asking everyone I know a simple question I figured it, "Do you see a picture in your mind when you think of something?" Their answers surprised me and my answer startled everyone, I don't don't see any pictures and every one I spoke to did. They asked what do I see? Nothing, I just think about the object, face or what ever. This thread made me look at this more and what I have (actually what I am) is called aphantasia and about 2% of the population have it.

Why I bring this up here is it turns out to be more than a lack of "Mind's Eye" it goes to all senses. Reading about it revealed to me that I don't have a voice in my head either and the other 98% hear their own voice when they think.

Finally I will get to my point, for the last 50 years I have been buying audio equipment, placing speakers try to get the promised 3D sound with little or no results, so I think that my brain is incapable of building the illusion. I don't know if this true or not, but I would be interested to find out if anybody reading this is the same as me. Don't get me wrong, being wired like this is fine with me, I have been thinking circles around my peers all my life and look at this as a gift, not a handicap. It would be great if I could experience reproduced sound like everyone else, but I still enjoy what I hear, but a lot of descriptions I read about others experiences have always left me wondering. My theory now is my aphantasia also prevents me form building the 3D illusion that stereo depends on.

Hi I’m new to building speakers so I have a lot to learn….( go easy)
I’ve been lurking and checking out some drivers

Beyma tpl-150/H
Dayton pro Amt

18sound 8nmb420
Ae TD8M
Ae TD10M

Have been catching my eye, I’ve even glanced over the TD12M and Beyma 12p80nd…

Now I guess as Always it’s a set of trade offs with a speaker build
So I want to hit the best middle ground, 12s and even 10s may have a waf problem in my room and also beaming seems a issue

So my gut says 8” maybe the sweet spot, I have td15h+ as stereo subs so it will be a 2way build / 3 way in separate cabinets

Any opinions on the best matching drivers I’ve mentioned or other better options would be appreciated

https://headwizememorial.wordpress....e-ended-otl-amplifier-for-dynamic-headphones/ I'm interested in building this amplifier, but I'm unsure of the power supply circuit. The transformers are quite expensive and aren't readily available in europe. Is there an alternative power supply I could use? Is any 150vdc power supply suitable

I would like to build these in a larger floorstanding cabinet. Can you advise on the larger internal volume range I could use, how much internal stuffing to use (if any), and sealed or aperiodic? I'm a "newbie" on speaker design. A search didn't bring up any precise hits on this. Thanks

http://seas.no/index.php?option=com...eas-a26-kit&catid=66:seas-diy-kits&Itemid=250

http://seas.no/index.php?option=com...6re4&catid=44:utv-prestige-woofers&Itemid=192


Greg

I bought a Adcom GFP-565 preamp and all is good except a scratchy pot. It is not bad and has cleared up some with use. However I can't let it slide! So I was wondering if anyone can suggest a replacement that would work for that pot. The ALPS model number is 051C-4170A07 50kX2. It is a 6 pin pot. I would be surprised if that was number was still able to be found so a quality replacement will also do.

Pico's Toxic Masculinity Chassis 4U x 500mm - Who is interested?

Just been speaking with Gianluca (Modushop) about doing a 4U 500mm Chassis.

For payment and ordering, follow link

Ricerca - 1HFTOXIC

For those who want to pay by PayPal or Credit Card simply choose "bank transfer" as payment method then send the money to webmaster@modu.it

Please make sure you choose the option "send money to friend or family member". The reason we are doing this is PayPal charges us a very high amount for, especially if the money comes from outside the EU.

Thanks for your understanding and your cooperation.

Back Panel

The IEC cutout on the back panel is compatible with either filtered or non-filtered Schurter power entry modules - Series 6765, FKI, FKH, FKID, FKHD should all fit.


If you're purchasing the Cardas Back Panel then you need to order these parts:

CARDAS PARTS SUPPLIED BY SONICRAFT

Binding posts

Cardas CCGR S Binding Post, Sonic Craft

RCAs SHORT VERSION

Cardas GRFA S RCA, Sonic Craft


RCAs LONG VERSION

Cardas GRFA L RCA, Sonic Craft

XLRs

Cardas CM F XLR Chassis XLR, Sonic Craft

Alternatively you could use Neutrik XLR jacks.


Shorting Pins For XLR's - OPTIONAL

Cardas CGSP, Sonic Craft

If you want to use other RCAs and Binding Posts then choose the back panel with pilot holes.
The XLR cutout is compatible with either Neutrik or Cardas this is common on both back panels

So far the list is:

Blk Dynamite x 2
Savu x 2
Mr Dewk x 2
Pico x 1 (maybe 2 if required to get to 25)
Gary S x 1 (maybe 3 if price is reduced further)
pwagner x 2 (maybe 3 if price is reduced further)
Hey Bill x 1 (maybe 2 if required to get to 25)
Super_BQ x 1 (maybe 2 if required to get to 25)
Mirio x 1 (maybe 2 if required to get to 25)
Ozorfis x 1 (maybe 2 if required to get to 25)
TungstenAudio x 1 (maybe 2 if required to get to 25)
ItsAllInMyHead x 1 (maybe 2 if required to get to 25)
Gnub x 1
Subbu k x 1
hifibluedevil x 1
BrianGasberg x 1
Gerald1951 x1
Cakyol x 1
vvs07 x 1
6L6 x 1
Theodosis O. x 1
Dennis Hui x 1
Kasey197 x 1
Sampsonite x 1
Argos x 1
wg45 x 1
dantwomey x 1
32y0 x 1
Kbergsson x 1
Analogdiy x 1
ggetzoff x 1

Well, I really don't use this amp so it's time to move it on to someone who will appreciate it more than I.

I rescued it from a music store going out of business. It was dead when I acquired it, so I pulled it apart and made some repairs to it, mostly bad solder joints and replaced all the fuses inside. The amplifier works, but it's going to need some assistance. First and foremost, the RCA inputs need to be replaced. The original ones use ceramic insulators which are cracked and no longer functioning well. The other issue is the left side meter does not work. If I jump the right meter to left it functions, so the meter itself is good, it looks like the board that drives the meter may need some help. Looks like a pretty simple circuit but I don't have time to play with it. One of the speaker terminals is missing its plastic nut, but still works.

You'll also notice the case is scuffed up and could use some help. Side panels are badly chipped but not dented, you'll also notice the right meter has a crack in the acrylic. I thought it was a scratch, but I was never able to polish it out.

This machine is 100% original. No modifications, no changes, no rebuild, it is bone stock. The meter switches on the front do work.

PM me if you need any more information I'll be happy to answer any questions. Shipping for this is probably gonna be about $100+ as it weighs 60 pounds.

I'm asking $800 O.B.O for it, substantially less than I can probably get for on eBay, but I'd rather have someone who could appreciate it get it.

WTB:

18M/4631T00​

https://www.scan-speak.dk/product/18m-4631t00/

I have a Alchemist Kraken power amplifier with what looks like a DC relay protection circuit.
There is no output on the binding post. If i mesure the speaker output before the DC circuit i get about 15 volts DC left and right.
There seems to be a repair don i the past (by factory?)

What will be the usual suspects, the PSU?

This is just a long shot and there is probably no satisfactory solution.

My Ditton 44’s are nearly 50 years old. I recapped them a couple of years ago and replaced the tweeters with Seas 19TFF1’s. (Thanks alan-1-b and others). I spent a lot of time fine tuning the voicing with ERS compensating resistors and they sound beautifully balanced; in fact better than original.

I have a spare set of mid drivers. I did have a set of woofers but they both failed after 6 months so I put the good originals back. (I always put the ones I buy in the speakers and keep the originals as spare).

Sooner or later though these old woofers will also fail but I don’t want to buy another set of used T1600s (or T2619s), so the question is: are there any modern 12 inch woofers which will work in 44’s without too much alteration to the crossovers? I can mess about with caps as I have some spare ones but don’t want the change the inductors as the cost would make this exercise pointless. The plan would be to buy one driver and test it out.

Some candidate drivers are listed below. I could only find three as the impedance of the T1600 is 4 ohms. Maybe there are others though.

What are the most critical values?

If Vas is critical then the volume of a 44 cab is about 60 L.

I realise that there may be some speculative replies but it would be really helpful if any of you have actually done this or can definitively rule out any / all of the drivers I listed.

Thanks Gordon

I was wondering if someone could help. I have a blue led in circuit. Running across it is 2.84 vdc but it doesnt light. When i take it out of circuit and test it with diode test it lights. Ive checked and it wired in correct way in circuit + and - correctly. I have a 100 ohm resistor before the led.

Hello dear forum users, my English knowledge is not good, so I use google translation. I need your help. I am looking for original transistors for the repair of my amplifier:
Sanken 2SA1295 + 2SC3264 + SK216 + SJ79
There are offers on the Internet, but these no longer seem to be originals, but fakes from China, bad replicas. Does anyone know of a commercial dealer who still has the originals on offer? Or do any of you still have some in your spare parts store?

Thank you very much

First off I am technically very ignorant so please bear with me. I just purchased an already built Korg Nutube B1 and have it paired with a First Watt F6 and my source is a dvd transport and solid state dac. I have a rapid sounding pop pop pop or click click click sound coming from the mid woofer on my two-way speakers (they are fairly inefficient speakers) when the Nutube is turned on. I have switched interconnects, switched to dvd transport only (eliminating dac) and I have taken the Nutube out of the circuit and the sound goes away.

I opened the preamp and there is no sign of burns or anything on the circuit board and all connections seem solid. Can I take this to an audio tech or is the circuit too esoteric and is there anything I can look for that would determine anything? Thanks for your help.

'Machang Music & Pictures' Seems to be a record-presser in Korea. We do have old scratchy films from the 1950s of how it was done at RCA and similar. This is a lot cleaner but also far smaller production.
On YouTube
Yes, "sound wrinkles" is not how we say it here, but is perfectly logical.

Hi, this is my first post. I just started to learn electronics repair from YouTube videos with no prior electronics background.
I am attempting to fix a Polk Woodburne Bluetooth speaker that would not power up due to a short circuit, as a learning project. With a dim bulb connected, I can power up multiple times without touching/changing anything, and get intermittent shorts. When it does not short, the speaker will work flawlessly until I either restart or put into standby and reawaken, and the intermittent shorts continue. In standby mode, which uses 5V power, I get no shorts. I have changed the amp power section capacitors in vain. Will try the power supply capacitors for 30V supply once I get the parts. I have also checked connections to speakers etc and all seem fine. Am I on the right track? Also, Google for schematics have not been successful, not that I would be able to properly understand anyway 😅. Thanks!

I have for sale one used toroid transfomers:

a) 60VA 1x230Vac, 2x12Vac (12-0-12), weight: 850g, price: 10 EUR + post costs + PP fee



b) 750VA, 1x230Vac, 1x18Vac, dimensions: 140x70 mm, weight: 5,2 kg, price: SOLD

Selling complete 94, 95, 96, 97 and 98 years as in various conditions as shown in the photos. Taking offers for shipping only. Selling All Years Together Only at this time. Please message me. Thanks.

I just picked up some Crystal 40 that the cross overs have blown caps,
can someone help with wiring back together, red black green yellow blue brown
Cheers
ng

Hello,

I have 2 pairs of vgs matched 2SK182ES that I bought from Pras a few years ago which I never used.
I would like to trade one pair of the two for a pair of vgs matched THF51S. You can choose the vgs you want from mine.

Thanks.

Best regards.

Hi all,
Been working on this receiver for a bit and have reached a blockage point. I'm hopeful for some insight on what's going on - thank you much in advance for your input!

This was a "not turning on" unit when I got it, that I tracked down to the MPX unit shorting the Vcc rail to ground (I could have fried some eggs on the regulator heatsink prior to fixing it). Upon recapping it (and the rest of the lythics - some were leaked), and tinkering a bit more with the connections to the board (such as reflowing the solder, cleaning up the grounds, etc.) it's now:
- working as far as preamp/amp stages go (which I adjusted and they're working very well);
- the tuning meter now deflects as I dial the tuning up and down (which wasn't happening before - neither AM, nor FM, as they were fed from the same clamped rail);

It seems the lingering issue is now still with the MPX module. I don't get audio out, and some voltage readings are enclosed (on top: stereo, bottom: mono, where different). Some obvious trouble seems to inflict Q401, Q402, Q403, though I don't have a good understanding of what's going on there.

I suspected Q401 has some issue (short?) between gate and source, and replaced the 2SK23 with a PN4393 selected for a Vgsoff of 1.17V and Idss of 8.45mA (which I feel is a suitable replacement, but welcome thoughts) but that returns returns the exact same values (and it seems to amplify the input signal to a decent waveform). I believe I also disconnected the input to the MPX and got the same elevated gate voltage, so the issue doesn't seem to be originating upstream. I am increasingly becoming weary that the coils there (MU401, T401) may be damaged. All transistors seem to pass the diode test out of circuit, though that's obviously not always positively relevant (so it very well could be that a certain transistor - such as Q402?... Q403? - is failed). But I just can't see how some failure of Q402/403 can trigger the Q401 gate issue, therefore my conundrum.

I am not sure the stereo bulb is conducting, but I assume R411 is there to prevent a burnt bulb from stopping stereo operation, so I didn't worry too much about it.

Any input much appreciated!

On the left we have Sweet Spot Gummi Worms
On the right we have Distinct High Performance Speaker Cables

The gummi worms weigh in at 400 grams and contain corn syrup, beef gelatin and citric acid, with 16 calories per worm.
Th cables are 14 gauge, 4 meters in length and have gold plated connectors. Spades on one end, banana on the other.

Which one wins? That depends on your criteria.
The gummi worms come it at $4.99 CAD
The cables are $3.49 CAD

Since they actually work, I'm heading back to the store and not for more worms.

Hello diy people!
I'm sure it's been discussed. I just can't find it. I have a Chinese board that calls for 32-0-32 vac with only three terminals. I want to use an transformer with 32v secondary and four wires. Can this be done? How is it done? Or, can anyone point me to the threads/posts about this? The Chinese transformer with 3 wires will cost an extra 50 bucks to ship. The Antek with 4 is free shipping.
Thank you for your help
Kevin

Do any of you know if Kondo (Audio Note Japan) uses a regulator on the heater supply for the Ongaku M77 preamp? Looking at pictures on the web, I see a TO-3 package... but it could be a slow start, a capacitance multiplier, a regulator, or something else. In my DIY, I identify products that appeal to my leanings and learn from them, but I haven't been able to crack this nut.
Thanks muchly.

I have an offset rv7 and RV8 at the back of a Rogers a75-s2 amplifier that needs to be adjusted. I don't know how many millivolts the resistance at both ends of its emitter e is. Please help me have a look. The manual of the machine is attached. Thank you,

Sorry if this has been discussed (I must have missed the meeting in that case), but what are the thoughts on adding a shoutbox for people to shoot the crap with while online?

I have 2 Adcom GFA-565 Monoblock Poweramps and while both turn on having power, they are not delivering any sound to connected speakers. The speakers work properly as well as the cables connecting them function. Also, there's no "pop" noise when turning the amps on from the speakers connected. There used to be this noise when switching on the amps, along with the sound being delivered to the speakers, but all of a sudden this has stopped. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hello,

I'm looking for a monitor to use in video van.
Listeners are only at 1m from speakers.

Due to programs captured (live music), it will be nice to detect defects, but I understand that I'm far from normal listening conditions.

Auratone/advantone are used for proximity monitor, but is it the answer ?

thanks

Hi All, happy new year. there attached the ARC sp10 circuit, the red circle is J175 , can i replace it with LM335 .
however i dont know actually this circuit require how much constant current and the LM335 40v can support to this design ? If LM335 is not suitable, can anyone advise other FET and how to set required constant current for this design ?

WTB: BUD Alu box 12 x 8

I'm looking for the simplest way to do this. I want use the stereo Aux outputs on my receiver to connect to another amp to power two subwoofers. Effectively I want to put a low pass filter on a 400mv 75ohm signal. What do I need?

After decades of service, my Praxis measurement system apparently has died. Praxis is by far the best measurement tool I know of for design work. If anyone out there has Praxis hardware lying around, could you please email me a info@philharmonicaudio.com. I'll make it more than worth your while financially. Thanks! Dennis Murphy

Complete. Box not essential. From EU.

I've always balanced and eq'ed my pa systems by ear, with an occasional use of swept sine waves. I've gotten pretty decent results, but now that I'm building custom subs, I want to learn how to do this right.

This weekend, for the first time, I used RTA software. (Real Audio's TrueRTA, which I'm not sure was the right purchase, but good enough for now.)
Man, I thought it would be easy! Famous last words.

My first attempt was with pink noise, and a 1/6th octave read out. I played around with processor setting while watching the RTA display, then checked with actual song audio when I thought I was close, or when I had to choose between two different settings. I must say, it sound better than when I did it by ear, but that bloody RTA display refuses to get flat. - And when I do get CLOSE to flat, down to maybe 35 hz, the song audio sounds overly LF-heavy, to the point that I'm losing "punch" from the subs.


Uggh. I'm totally in the weeds here.
I don't expect easy answers on a forum, but can someone point me to a good tutorial that explains the typical steps used to achieve this goal?
--------------------------------------


Also: I intended to use TrueRTA for both PA setups and room acoustic tuning. (The latter is something I did years ago, as an extra business designing recording studios.) . I'm disappointed that the software I bought has no warble tones and no waterfall display, which were critical components of my old hardware-based system.
Can anyone recommend a really good software system that can do all of this?

thx.

Hey peeps!
Up for grabs is a 6N1/6N6 active loaded headphone amp.

Designed for high Z cans, but it'll swing 20mA so 32R is quite loud.
150$ obo plus shipping or pick up in the GTA.
Come with PSU and new tubes.

I've been using Electronic Workbench software since its inception about 25 yrs ago.
EWB was developed right here in Toronto 'The Big Smoke' & sold to NI around 2005.
So EWB was born long after the heyday of tubes, it has no pentodes. And I could find
no way to load a pentode file. But there is a triode whose parameters can be set.

I had some ideas & here is how it evolved, written up much later.
It depends on the Inverted Triode concept somewhat to complete the puzzle.
Complete with actual measurements on the bench, a lot more than just talk. 🙂

Hello,
I have an issue with my Sansui AU-70 where right channel is silent (almost) when Tone Defeat switch is OFF. Once I turn Tone Defeat ON, then everything works fine (except I'm left without tone adjustments).
Here's a quick video to showcase it: https://photos.app.goo.gl/kHmQUfcoy44AQGWn9

I was told to apply some DeoxIT into the switch, but I'm hesitant that this just won't address the issue long term.

Would you guys have any advice on what may be the root cause as well as what are the potential solutions?

Best,
Kamil

Hello all,

I would appreciate a check over from a more experienced engineer, to change the input sensitivity of the ClassDaudio TAS5630 board.

Its based on the TAS5630DKD2EVM (Datasheet here), which shows the OPA1632 on the inputs (Datasheet here).

I require it to match a MiniDSP which outputs 0.9v. In order to reach the full output with a 50V supply / 48V output voltage, then the gain needed (I believe) is 35dBv, or a 56x voltage multiplier. I have contacted ClassDaudio and all they are able to say is that it matches the evaluation board at 23dBv.

Below is my thought process:


TAS5630 datasheet - 5v input for full output


OPA1632 datasheet- As far as I can see I would be aiming for a voltage multiplier of 5.6x for full output (5v into TAS5630 / 0.9v into opamp).



OPA1632 datasheet- The opamp Datasheet shows Rg and Rf here


OPA1632 datasheet- Example layout matches with schematic


TAS5630 datasheet- I assume Rf are R63/65 and Rg are R62/66


Own photo -

On the board I measure R26/28/29/32 to be 2.2k each and <1R to the op-amp input pins, indicating they're Rg.

The components R25/21/22/33 measure to be 10K resistors. I can't see the traces exactly, but resistances are <1R to where they're meant to go if they're Rf.

In which case 10k/2k2 = 4.54x gain rather than the ideal 5.6x.


Changes to board-

Am I right in thinking replacing the Rg resistors (R26/28/29/32) with 1.78k (1% E96) will yield the desired input sensitivity?

Thanks for checking this over.. I have seen warnings of incorrect values leading to burned ICs and appreciate your time taking a look!

2 pcs. 10" woofers, model 245/37100
4 Ohm
F res 22Hz
120W in 25l sealed box

C$ 50/pair, plus shipping from Vancouver, Canada

Hi, for background, I play upright bass and am using a yamahiko dual sensor pickups. these replace the adjuster wheels of the bridge.

The stock configuration is that with a bridge cable, they are connected in parallel. and the signal then goes to a preamp with 10+ Meg Ohm input impedance.

By using two separate cables into a two channel preamp, I find I prefer the balance favoring one side or the other but this comes at the cost of complexity of outboard gear.

Is it possible to connect the two piezo sensors together with a passive attenuator between them such that I get a similar result to using the two separate channels with unequal blending? I suspect that any un buffered attenuator between them will attenuate both sensors.

FS 2SK117 jfets I have 2 x Y grade, 8 x GR grade and 8 x BL grade, the BL and Y grades are still in their cpc packaging







Take them all £10 gbp plus postage at cost

Hi all, looking to build some mid tops to go with my PA rig, 2 B&C sub15 mod kickers and a dual 15" ppsl sub - i have lying around a pair of PD.123C01 and B&Cde750 2" CD drivers so just need something to base a design on for some reflex tops. Had some yamaha club 12"s which i liked before and was thinking to more or less copy the design but without modelling and measurement knowledge not sure how to mod to best serve the PD drivers I have. Help appreciated!

I am getting ready to build my next 2-way prototype, a ported 12L 2-way with a Fountek NeoCD3.0 and a 5.5-ish woofer-mid.

My "short list" of woofer-mids is:

Satori TeXtreme MW13TX-8
Purifi PTT5.2508-NFA-1
Audio Technology Flexunits 5 H 52 17 06 P (w/Sandwich Cone and LR Magnet options)

(Comments on the above welcome, of course.)

I was inspired by Troels Gravesen's "3-Way Classic" to consider mounting the woofer on a .75-inch panel epoxied to the flush-mounted front panel holding the tweeter, with the top edge of the woofer panel beveled 20 degrees.

The woofer driver would be inset or countersunk to the depth of its basket rim, meaning 6 to 7mm, which would mean a net offset of 11 to 12mm. In theory I could make the woofer sub-baffle 1.0 inches. Which would mean a net offset of 17 or 18mm.

It's not so much a matter of expense (I already have Richlite boards in both .75 in. and 1.0 in.), it's complication and weight.

Thanks in advance for your comments and advice.

john

Anyone heard the new ones? 2nd favorite sub I ever ran. Still ugly as hell, but are they true to the original design?

I remember the sound.

Hi guys,
An avid enjoyer of the Sonic Frontiers Power 2 tube amp, and have (under the guidance of Chris Johnson) systematically upgraded power tubes over the years, from KT88, to KT120, to KT150... With the new KT170 Tung Sol tubes out, and so many good things read about them, I'd like to try them in the Power 2 amp. Has anyone done this successfully? I did pose the question to the guys up at Parts Connexion, while still awaiting a response (I'm sure they are 'end of year' crazy buys) I was wondering if anyone might've paired the KT170's with the Power2, or might know if the Power2 would be fine with the upgrade?
Thanks
Mick

Howdy,

I purchased this only two months ago with the ambition of it being a little project - I now find myself in the position of having three DIY music servers and no time to complete this build!

• CPU- i7
• MB - NUC7i7BNH
• M2 SSD included - 256GB Sabrent
• Memory : 8GB Apacer

Its has three onboard Connor Winfield clocks, which are all supplied by a 3 pin miniature connector (same type Teddy Pardo uses) this needs 12-19v @ 2A, then the NUC section is powered by its own DC Jack power supply 12-19v @ 3A.

No PSU included, but I can throw in single PCB of Salas L-adapter, this is a very well regarded linear power supply - all you need to do is populate it, attach to a transformer and put it in a 25 x 25cm enclosure and supply the two rails that the NUC and OXCO needs. Total cost probably about £250, but you could also use an aftermarket power supply of choice if you don’t fancy building your own, or go the whole hog and supply both the clocks and NUC separately (probably little need for this to be honest as there are already regulators on the clocks). I’m happy to advise on the build.

A very good sounding NUC. I’ll ask only what I purchased it for, which was a bargain.

£350/$400

Item is located in Oxford, UK.

Thanks

I made a channel with parts that I had in the drawer, replacing mje340 that I don't have, with ktd2061. Everything works but I can't adjust V/2 by acting on r11. I checked the components and everything seems ok, I measure V/2 as described on the diagram.

I have plans for an ob solution in a slot. In this I want 4 pcs 12" or 15".

I have considered using the BEYMA SM-112N. Does anyone have experience with this driver in OB sub configuration?

I have built a rear loaded horn using the Fostex 166 En driver and am extremely satisfied with the performance. I am now contemplating building another horn using the Fostex FE 126 En. Can anyone in this forum comment on the performance and the bass response of the 126 En drivers?

So I have a factory restored set of Tympani IVa's that I was able to finally unbox and set up. Love the mid/high end, but the bass leaves me cold. Also, these things are not making the significant other happy with their cut the room in half size. So, here are my options:

1. I can ditch the 2 bass panels per side and build a set of h frame woofers run up to say 250hz or so. I would convert the mid/tweeter panel to actively amp the woofers, mids, and tweeters. I have 2 AE dipole 18 woofers factory new in boxes I bought to use for subs but could use them instead of the bass panels.


2. I also have 6 24" neoplanar drivers made by ATC with B&G. They are said to cover 180hz to 20,00hz. I would make a baffle with 3 per side and use these with h frame 18" woofers as above.

3. I would make a baffle and use the Magnapan tweeter with the ATC neoplanar ribbons as mids, woofer as above.

4. I have 20 neo-8's I could use as mids along with the Magnepan tweeter in baffle, along with the woofer as above.

5. I understand that Magnepan is now upgrading the mid panel to a foil mid. I would replace the Tympani mid with the new foil mid and use it along with the Magnepan tweeter and AE h frame woofer in an active 3 way.

Any suggestions???? Thanks!

Hello and happy new year to all!
Being sort of a multilateral character, my dreams always are several steps ahead of my mind.
Just like my DCG3-build: Not quite finished (almost done, but still not even heard how good it is!)
It is my second build with an opamp in the circuitry (bugle2 being the first), and opamps are like capacitors—there's rumors they can be rolled 🙄

There aren't many mentions in the build-thread, and I am basically clueless, so I looked up the datasheet for the AD823ANZ in use (here), which left me quite as clueless as before.

Then there's the store's Burson Audio V6 offer, where AD823 is mentioned as "AD823, AD823AN", but no "AD823ANZ".

How to discern the variants, and what are the differences anyway? (between the AD823 to start with)?

Is there any way to identify this woofer without removing it? It's 8" with an inverted surround. It's in a cabinet that is 18" H x 10" W x 8" D (457mm H x 255mm W x 204mm D) that is probably a DIY build as there's no branding or stickers. Many thanks!

Offered due to another project a 4-deck DDDAC 1794 NOS DAC complete in new parts except capacitors and rectifier for the power supply. List of parts is available.

Including finished and tetsted mainboard, 4x DDDAC-modules, enclosure by Modus including customized to mount diplays, power switch, buttons and in- and outputs .
2x Display, power supplies, choke, connectors, switches, Raspberry 3B+, Ian Canada parts, Accusilicon AS318 clocks, Cinemag 600/600CLI Transformers and more..
Part list and schematic are available.

Please, if you are intrested, sent a pm to request info as questons, part list and photo's. .
I paid up to $2500 for all parts and will consider a serious offer.
It can be picked up or worldwide shipping.

GIANT TOROID 42.8 VAC CT x 6


P/N: TRN012000-020 (TOU548007F0-T04760). 120 VAC Input

6 separate windings with this configuration:

21.4V—————0—————21.4V (42.8 VAC CT)

Toroid was specified for a 12 channel amp, 360W RMS

Windings could be added in series to produce higher voltages

Removed from a Niles XZR-4630 Amplifier

Weighs 12.5 lbs

$50 + shipping

This is not DIY - but I hope someone will find this useful anyway
And I know - the post could just as well have been posted in "Instruments and Amps" for the musicians there.

Anyway: I have been searching for an over-ear wireless headphone that could be used for practicing playing electric bass.
Wireless - because all the headphone, I've tried, conducts the noise from the wire moving over my shirt just perfectly 🙂
And no: I can't sit still - I have to move my head to switch between watching the fretboard and the sheet music.

Given that I need to hear the bass together with the music, I'm practicing to - I thereby get a setup that is very sensitive to latency.
I used to have an old (10++ years) Sennheiser wireless headphone using an old fashion FM modulation.
And that worked latency wise - but had too much noise and far to little acoustic output.
This technology is unfortunately not available anymore.

Bluetooth is out of the question - it is too slow (the theoretical 32mS minimum latency is just that: theoretical)

I then tried the Sennheiser RS175 which uses a 8 FSK modulation (not bluetooth) - no latency was documented and reviews and marketing material indicated that latency was not an issue.
It did nevertheless have an audible - and problematic - latency and after diving even deeper in the search I found a note from Sennheiser stating that the latency would be around 45mS.
I measured 48mS - and was lucky to get my money back for the headphone.

Then I had the fortune to visit the Thomann shop in Germany (mostly to window shop) - and in the headphone department I asked about this obvious lack of available products - and "Bingo": they had a TMA-2 from AIAIAI (no I am not screaming - that is the company name).
It states (or boasts if you like) a 16mS latency - and I measured 17mS, BTW.

Probably if I had the ears and playing technique of Victor Wooten playing his double thump, double pluck the latency might be audible, but for me it works now.

A note: the 48mS with the Sennheiser RS 175 could be counteracted by adjusting my playing, but that way I would have practiced something that would make the drummer in my band go mad.

Cheers, Martin

comp

Hi All
Looking for 845 valve amps
Anything out there
Cheers

Hi guys
I need help with this beautiful Kenwood CD player.
The drawer opens and closes, display is OK, but the motor that moves the lens does not powered (no voltage to it - CN5)
There is no mechanical obstacle to movement along the axis, but no matter where I put it it doesn't go back to the beginning to read TOC
Power to driver Q19 - STA341M is OK (+-10V)
Any ideas how to proceed?

Thanks and happy holidays!

I want to place the OPT directly above the main transformer. Both are toroidal. Rather than ask the question I setup a test. The two 6v3 windings in series of the mains transformer goes to a bridge and 40000uF of cap. Then on to a 40W 12V halogen bulb. The idea is to load the transformer and generate some rectifier harmonics similar to what would happen to the HT. The OPT is connected to a speaker.

Anyway the short of it is I don't hear a thing out of the speaker not even a squat with my ear right against it. So you can place the two right over each other.

Well it has been a rough year for me with back problems, car wrecks and probable prostate cancer. That said I am still waking up every morning and facing the dragon for another fight.

I wish you all a Happy New Year and wonderful 2023.

I will be toasting with Y-2-K champaigne glasses. What a long strange trip it has been.

Is there a good free box program on the net ?

The manual doesn’t say the box specs I also tried googling it and nothing comes up for a recommendation for the box size.

Or does anyone know what size box would work for this sub ?


https://audiolegion.com/products/maximus-series-06-6-5-400-watt-max-car-subwoofer

Hi all,

What flavor of Linux is the current go to install for things audio such as EQ, streaming, crossover, testing.
What packages will I need to install for the audio back end and front end.

I am only in need of the OS to choose for right now as I have to download the img and install it.

Please now that I am not looking for a guarantee of success just a place to start. Also I can install multiple versions in case it is a tossup or one is better for streaming and one is better for testing.

thx
Jeremy

I have a BGW Model 350 on the bench. I found the schematic, but i am still looking for the parts list. Any leads would be appreciated!

Happy New Years!

Hello
I am restoring a pair Dahlquist DQ10. The owner befor tray to repair them,
but didn't make a fine job.The Dome tweeters are not original and also the bass
units are not original.I am looking for a set off tweeters and some original bass
Units .It is no problem to rebuild the bass units for me.

Regards
Piet

One issue that I have running the Raspberry Pi OS with the infamous systemd, is for some undefined weird reason, the detection of the IQaudIO DAC is not done making sure to mute the sound card. On every boot, I get a strange sound from the speakers, as if, it comes from some alien! Before, the detection and initiation of the card were done silently: What happened now?

Now, the Raspberry Pi developers insist on users to use their OS! Is this some kind of vendor lock-in? To me, it is a message not to buy more Raspberry Pi mini-computers.

Pelé has gone today at its 82. With Diego they will play an eternal footbal match in the heaven (My hearth is with Diego, however).

I bought a JVC XL-Z1010TN CD player months ago on EBAY. Non-functional headphone output and variable level output problems were known and detailed in the auction description. When I opened the chassis, I found that a number of modifications had been attempted. Most were substitutions for larger value and/or quality capacitors (Rubycon and Multicap) and shielded DC supply wiring. There is one mystery mod that sticks out. My guess is that it is DC power supply related. There is a 5V regulator on one side and the inside of the box is potted. Any thoughts as to the function of the potted box? Have there been any documented mods for this player?

Just purchased a headphone amp (Schiit magni 3) and would like to eliminate the giant wall wart and have a power supply in a separate chassis. Its 14-16vac, 1.5-2.5A is acceptable. I'm pretty green at this stuff, but I know how to solder and can follow directions pretty well.

What are some good beginner friendly pages i can read through to learn about design considerations for building a low noise power supply.