General Opinion Needed:
As I am a tube-nube, I am interested in whether there is any general opinion about a "pretty side" of any particular vacuum tube. My musing arose as I was laying out PC mount sockets on a board layout and thought, "should pin 1 face the front, side back...?!?"
For example, would a 5AR4 dual diode look better from the front of an amp if pin #2 was at the front, or pin #5, or something else entirely?
Same question for Octal pentodes (e.g. 6L6GC, 6550, KT88...).
Same question for 9-pin miniatures (e.g. 12AT7, 12AX7...).
Same question for 9-pin "compactron" tubes (e.g. 6LR8).
Same question for 12-pin compactron tubes (e.g. 6LU8).
I can only remember looking through the perforated masonite back of an Electrohome console colour TV to the chassis from above and seeing the glow of the tubes.
Thanks.
As I am a tube-nube, I am interested in whether there is any general opinion about a "pretty side" of any particular vacuum tube. My musing arose as I was laying out PC mount sockets on a board layout and thought, "should pin 1 face the front, side back...?!?"
For example, would a 5AR4 dual diode look better from the front of an amp if pin #2 was at the front, or pin #5, or something else entirely?
Same question for Octal pentodes (e.g. 6L6GC, 6550, KT88...).
Same question for 9-pin miniatures (e.g. 12AT7, 12AX7...).
Same question for 9-pin "compactron" tubes (e.g. 6LR8).
Same question for 12-pin compactron tubes (e.g. 6LU8).
I can only remember looking through the perforated masonite back of an Electrohome console colour TV to the chassis from above and seeing the glow of the tubes.
Thanks.
You can buy two different examples of the same type and they can look completely different inside so if you want to see the 'pretty' side than you will restrict yourself to one version of each valve you use.
No, stick to engineering principles. There is enough to think about when designing physical layouts without worrying about the 'pretty' side. One exception to this: you can usually ensure that rows of valves are evenly spaced rather than appearing random.
No, stick to engineering principles. There is enough to think about when designing physical layouts without worrying about the 'pretty' side. One exception to this: you can usually ensure that rows of valves are evenly spaced rather than appearing random.
Some data sheets (The Genelex KT88 comes to mind) specify the orientation of the pins when tubes are next to each other to minimize one tube radiating heat into it's neighbor, as well as recommended minimum tube spacing. Some data sheets also specify whether the tube can be mounted in orientations other than vertical.
http://www.triodeel.com/kt88p5.gif
http://www.triodeel.com/kt88p5.gif
That's only 50% of the job. Since squiffiness cares about aesthetics your suggestion seems a bit rude to me. Not worrying about the 'pretty' side will come eventually -when you're too old to care.
Anyway, I don't see much point asking other people what would look best. Figure it out for yourself.
Why "reinvent" the wheel, when budget is a consideration for me as well.
If I have PC mount sockets, I can't readily change the orientation like I could in a chassis-mount.
Thanks to all for the opinions on this thread. It appears to be getting a bit controversial, so I'll sign off this one but lurk if more answers come in.
Sorry to ruin your aesthetics, but orientation is dictated by engineering concerns. For example, noval (9 pin) tubes have to mounted with pins 4-5 to the chassis side, because the heater cables must hide in the chassis corner, octals with the "key" pointing the chassis, for the same reason. Beam power valves have to be wit the keys aligned and 9 cm distance between them etc. Would you like to have an amplifier that hums?
I also value very much the aesthetics of the device once mounted. By example I put all resistors and capacitor, with the markings to the same side, so they can be read from one point of view.
squiffiness: as the job at your pleasure, keeping in mind some basic concepts above mentioned.
Good luck.
squiffiness: as the job at your pleasure, keeping in mind some basic concepts above mentioned.
Good luck.
I have to laugh! That is exactly what I was thinking: generally since it is the heater wires which I run first, their layout is what dictates how the socket is oriented.
Nah, you didn't ruin anything. Filaments wires can go to the left, to the right and above the sockets (not through the sockets though). The only thing you should care is where the other wires go. Every brand of tubes have a different look, sometimes tubes from the same brand have different alignment so it's pointless to pursue perfect orientation. As long as the tubes are not crooked, I'm happy.
The KEG-EAR Amp PCB was designed for the newer Svet 6550's and I found a set of older Svet 6550 that the plates were rotated about 15 deg. Still looked OK but was missing the glow through the plate holes from the front. Currently running the newer ones, holding the older set for spares...
Attachments
Damn, then I feel DOMINANT!
Unfortunately, since the monos are mirror imaged, one side has the nice "Machlett" logo and the other has a warning stating 'Danger See Operation Hazard Sheet".
But that's what the layout dictates.
Attachments
You see it a lot in guitar amps, and yes, it is stressful (to power valves and rectifiers), as the hot electrodes can sag and short. Some data sheets specify certain mounting orientations. It isn't a big deal for preamp valves if they're operated at low power levels.
Upside-down mounting can also be stressful as the rising heat is blocked by the chassis and gathers around the valve base.
You're allowed to rotate your tube and use slightly different cable routing on your other monoblock! In the end, they'll be part of your home furnishings.. Make sure you'll be happy looking at them whether they are on or off.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.