Bleeder resistors
The are 270k ohm 1/4 watt I think and will check my math but, IMHO a person is just as well off to insulate the leads that the resistors are meant to protect you from because even with the resistors, it takes time after the power is off to drain the caps and with the power on they serve no purpose. So to make things more "idiot" proof- I would just put heat shrink tube on any open wire to prevent shock and short circuit.
Take care,
I am still looking for a better power supply for my K-16LS
The are 270k ohm 1/4 watt I think and will check my math but, IMHO a person is just as well off to insulate the leads that the resistors are meant to protect you from because even with the resistors, it takes time after the power is off to drain the caps and with the power on they serve no purpose. So to make things more "idiot" proof- I would just put heat shrink tube on any open wire to prevent shock and short circuit.
Take care,
I am still looking for a better power supply for my K-16LS
K-16LS
I finished a K-502 amp earlier this year and was so impressed on how a "cheap" tube amp could sound that I have decided to to build a K-16LS.
Can anyone suggest reasonably priced upgraded power and output transformers for my project? I don't want to make any other mods until I have tried better transformers. And to answer the question one member put forth as to why build a kit amp instead of buying a used Dynaco 70........It's fun!!!!
I finished a K-502 amp earlier this year and was so impressed on how a "cheap" tube amp could sound that I have decided to to build a K-16LS.
Can anyone suggest reasonably priced upgraded power and output transformers for my project? I don't want to make any other mods until I have tried better transformers. And to answer the question one member put forth as to why build a kit amp instead of buying a used Dynaco 70........It's fun!!!!
I have been running the amp for awhile and it sounds real good, but when I turn the volume up I get a hum and a small pop through the speakers. This is with the signal shorted to ground. Just wondering what I could try next to remove the hum and the pop (and where and why I get the small pop). I just added a 600v 0.01uf film cap on the HV leads but no real change in the hum.
Thanks,
Bob
History of my mods:
I replaced the .22uf Poly Film caps with .22uf Orange Drop 716 series caps, the 33pf Ceramic disc with 33pf Silver Mica caps, electrolytic caps (22uf, 100uf, 220uf)with Ruby gold caps (100uf,220uf,220uf) , I added filament snubber caps 50volt 1uf Ceramic Capacitors, changed the rectifier to UF4007 diodes and I changed the 3w and 1w resistors to 5w.
On the tone control board I replaced the .22uf Poly Film caps with .22uf Orange Drop 716 series caps and changed the electrolytic cap from 22uf to Ruby gold 100uf.
Thanks,
Bob
History of my mods:
I replaced the .22uf Poly Film caps with .22uf Orange Drop 716 series caps, the 33pf Ceramic disc with 33pf Silver Mica caps, electrolytic caps (22uf, 100uf, 220uf)with Ruby gold caps (100uf,220uf,220uf) , I added filament snubber caps 50volt 1uf Ceramic Capacitors, changed the rectifier to UF4007 diodes and I changed the 3w and 1w resistors to 5w.
On the tone control board I replaced the .22uf Poly Film caps with .22uf Orange Drop 716 series caps and changed the electrolytic cap from 22uf to Ruby gold 100uf.
I don't know if this is the appropriate place for this question, but since you were conversing about the tone control on the 16LS, I thought I might as well ask.
Q: Which is better, using the S 5 tone control or using an external, 80's Marantz pre-amp with tone control.
In terms of sound quality, has anybody done tests with and without the tone control on 16LS, and is it worth an extra $64?
Also does the 16LS kit come with tubes or do you have to pay extra for them? On their website they say shipping is $15 and tubes $10 (replacement tubes only $6 -weird-), but elsewhere they say everything needed is in the kit)
Clarifications anybody?
Q: Which is better, using the S 5 tone control or using an external, 80's Marantz pre-amp with tone control.
In terms of sound quality, has anybody done tests with and without the tone control on 16LS, and is it worth an extra $64?
Also does the 16LS kit come with tubes or do you have to pay extra for them? On their website they say shipping is $15 and tubes $10 (replacement tubes only $6 -weird-), but elsewhere they say everything needed is in the kit)
Clarifications anybody?
Yes it comes with GE 6005 tubs
The K16LS kit is great as a stand alone amp but it is a very nice upgrade with the integrated pre-amp/tone control. I have put it up against a NAD 973 and the DYI tube kit from S-5 has a much fuller and clearer sound. I used an old set of PhaseTech towers with 10" woofer running 8ohms. The NAD was of course the power house but for comfortable and even not so comfortable sound levels, the kit does a very good job. It comes with every part needed to make a functional vacuum tube amp. Of course that being said, there is so much information on this site that a guy can't just leave well enough alone. The mods are mostly inexpensive up to the opt upgrade from Edcor for $114.00 (highly recommended). I am not an electrical whiz but with a little caution and patients I have built a couple of these and love to show them off to anyone that I can drag in to listen.
The K16LS kit is great as a stand alone amp but it is a very nice upgrade with the integrated pre-amp/tone control. I have put it up against a NAD 973 and the DYI tube kit from S-5 has a much fuller and clearer sound. I used an old set of PhaseTech towers with 10" woofer running 8ohms. The NAD was of course the power house but for comfortable and even not so comfortable sound levels, the kit does a very good job. It comes with every part needed to make a functional vacuum tube amp. Of course that being said, there is so much information on this site that a guy can't just leave well enough alone. The mods are mostly inexpensive up to the opt upgrade from Edcor for $114.00 (highly recommended). I am not an electrical whiz but with a little caution and patients I have built a couple of these and love to show them off to anyone that I can drag in to listen.
Point-to-point
Hi all,
I have had this amp for a while and been using it as standard. (unsafe on the bread board)
I have finally finished the chasis and it looks awesome. I will post pictures soon.
I have decided to do a point to point so will basically be doing a new build. I am going to use turret board as i already have some from another project (not sure if that is strictly point to point).
This is the first time I have created a layout myself and was hoping that maybe someone could take a look and let me know if i've done anything stupid.
I haven't shown any of the valves, transformers or input wiring but you should be able to get the idea.
I will be using the majority of the mods already mentioned. i.e., replacing the bridge rectifier, upgrading all the caps, snubber on the HT etc. Any other suggestions for the layout would be welcome.
Thanks.
Hi all,
I have had this amp for a while and been using it as standard. (unsafe on the bread board)
I have finally finished the chasis and it looks awesome. I will post pictures soon.
I have decided to do a point to point so will basically be doing a new build. I am going to use turret board as i already have some from another project (not sure if that is strictly point to point).
This is the first time I have created a layout myself and was hoping that maybe someone could take a look and let me know if i've done anything stupid.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I haven't shown any of the valves, transformers or input wiring but you should be able to get the idea.
I will be using the majority of the mods already mentioned. i.e., replacing the bridge rectifier, upgrading all the caps, snubber on the HT etc. Any other suggestions for the layout would be welcome.
Thanks.
stl said:
I spoke to the guy who makes these kits and this is what he had to say regarding the tone control:
1>The tone control kit is essentially the same as the pre-amp kit, the only difference is that it has bass and treble adjustments.
2> If you are using this for a Gramophone it is recommended that you get the tone control or pre-amplifier because of the very low signal coming from the gramophone.
3>If you are using this kit with a DVD player or CD player / computer you don't really need the tone control. In fact, if you use tone control, you might get too much gain (not to mention the possibility of distortion) and have to turn down the amp's main volume to compensate for it .
So, I guess I'm going to pass on the tone control because (i) I intend to use this amp with CD/DVD player and (ii) my Gramophone has a separate pre-amplifier with a line out.
Hope this helps someone in the same dilemma.
millerlitescott said:
I like it, my old boombox project that I built during the summer sounds shameful compared to it, and the speakers I'm using are terribly cheap, slightly modified no-name bookshelf speakers so I can't wait until I rebuild those into something more suitable. I'm amazed at how good it sounds though. Definitely worth the money in my unprofessional opinion, and great fun to build.
millerlitescott said:
You could wire up an unmodified output that could be sent to a self-powered sub, but I don't think that connecting a sub is possible. With only 16 watts per channel running a large sub just wouldn't work. This amp isn't for shaking plates out of the cupboards and shattering glass, thats for sure.
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