Sorry I can't find where I say that my Vout is 6V.
Main problem is that my pass device is DPAK CASE 396C, so it is only possible to add heat sink with double sided thermal tape
I already lowered my raw dc supply from 30Vdc (made mistake with psud2 with transformer parameters and think that my talema 2x18vac transformer will be ok) to 22.5Vdc with diodes in secondary and series diodes after bridge. And now added 10ohm series resistor to secondary and now have 20vdc with 50mA load. so it will be something like this: 20-15=5 0.06*5=0.3w so heat-sink of 25K/W will rise temperature about only 8 degree Celsius over ambient. and without heat-sink it will be 25 degree Celsius over ambient if 71.4 C/W as datasheet says junction to ambient thermal resistance.
I need to check my other op-amps to see if they all are capable of +/-15vdc power supply, so I can use 15v instead of 12v, because I will want to roll some op-amps and choose best sounding for me.
It is good that I measure 7.1Vdc on op-amp 2 and 3 pin? you said that it should be no more than 7V
Sorry for my English, I am not native speaker and make mistake
Edit. Adjusted to 15Vdc, current goes to 63mA. Vin drop to 19.6. No heating on pass device. I think I will try without heat-sink, and if I will have heating issues just add one
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Sorry I can't find where I say that my Vout is 6V.
Main problem is that my pass device is DPAK CASE 396C, so it is only possible to add heat sink with double sided thermal tape
I already lowered my raw dc supply from 30Vdc (made mistake with psud2 with transformer parameters and think that my talema 2x18vac transformer will be ok) to 22.5Vdc with diodes in secondary and series diodes after bridge. And now added 10ohm series resistor to secondary and now have 20vdc with 50mA load. so it will be something like this: 20-15=5 0.06*5=0.3w so heat-sink of 25K/W will rise temperature about only 8 degree Celsius over ambient. and without heat-sink it will be 25 degree Celsius over ambient if 71.4 C/W as datasheet says junction to ambient thermal resistance.
I need to check my other op-amps to see if they all are capable of +/-15vdc power supply, so I can use 15v instead of 12v, because I will want to roll some op-amps and choose best sounding for me.
It is good that I measure 7.1Vdc on op-amp 2 and 3 pin? you said that it should be no more than 7V
Sorry for my English, I am not native speaker and make mistake
Edit. Adjusted to 15Vdc, current goes to 63mA. Vin drop to 19.6. No heating on pass device. I think I will try without heat-sink, and if I will have heating issues just add one
Checked my op-amps and I am limited only on AD8610 to +/-13V if I decide to use them.
Sorry I can't find where I say that my Vout is 6V.
Main problem is that my pass device is DPAK CASE 396C, so it is only possible to add heat sink with double sided thermal tape
I already lowered my raw dc supply from 30Vdc (made mistake with psud2 with transformer parameters and think that my talema 2x18vac transformer will be ok) to 22.5Vdc with diodes in secondary and series diodes after bridge. And now added 10ohm series resistor to secondary and now have 20vdc with 50mA load. so it will be something like this: 20-15=5 0.06*5=0.3w so heat-sink of 25K/W will rise temperature about only 8 degree Celsius over ambient. and without heat-sink it will be 25 degree Celsius over ambient if 71.4 C/W as datasheet says junction to ambient thermal resistance.
I need to check my other op-amps to see if they all are capable of +/-15vdc power supply, so I can use 15v instead of 12v, because I will want to roll some op-amps and choose best sounding for me.
It is good that I measure 7.1Vdc on op-amp 2 and 3 pin? you said that it should be no more than 7V
Sorry for my English, I am not native speaker and make mistake
Edit. Adjusted to 15Vdc, current goes to 63mA. Vin drop to 19.6. No heating on pass device. I think I will try without heat-sink, and if I will have heating issues just add one
I think you are OK with that set-up.
The nominal voltage on the LM329 is 6.9V. Depending on temperature, and how good your meter is, I always say 'about 7V'. Not important, 7.1V is perfectly OK.
It doesn't matter a whole lot whether the Vout is 14.8 or 15 or 15.3V.
Jan
PS It is always nice to give some info about your situation, like country and occupation. Makes it easier for people to relate to you. But of course, up to you.
Thank you for your help and all information
I will update my profile, because I never payed attention to it
Thank you for your help and all information
After assembling these boards, I have about 1V more output voltage from both than what I calculated.
I was shooting for +/-12VDC output from the boards, but have a little over +/-13VDC from them.
I used 1k ohm for R7/R14 and 750 ohms for R6/R13.
Can anyone tell me what values I need for R6/R13 to get +/-12VDC out?
Thanks.
I was shooting for +/-12VDC output from the boards, but have a little over +/-13VDC from them.
I used 1k ohm for R7/R14 and 750 ohms for R6/R13.
Can anyone tell me what values I need for R6/R13 to get +/-12VDC out?
Thanks.
That seems to indicate the regulator works fine. The ref is a bit high (7.07 instead of nominal 6.9 but that's just 1.5%) and with 750 and 1k should give 1.75 * 7.07 = 12.4 or so.
However: if your DMM shows a bit tto high, then both the ref and Vout would show a bit too high. I would suggest to verify that the 750 is really 750 and the 1k is really 1k.
Jan
Yes, the resistors really are 750 and 1k. I measured every resistor before soldering it onto the board.
When you state that the ref is high, are you referring to the LM329 being 7.07V instead of 6.9V?
Yes; when you measured pin 3 you effectively measured that.
But a ref 0.1V too high only accounts for 1.75 * 0.1V at the output of course.
But I never worry about these things. 12V, 13V, who gives a hoot? These are no precision devices. As long as the reg works as it should, that is what counts for the final sound quality.
Jan
But a ref 0.1V too high only accounts for 1.75 * 0.1V at the output of course.
But I never worry about these things. 12V, 13V, who gives a hoot? These are no precision devices. As long as the reg works as it should, that is what counts for the final sound quality.
Jan
Yes, we are kinda "splitting hairs" here so to speak.
There are a few op-amps, like the AD8610/20 that top out +/-13VDC. That's why I prefer +/-12VDC outputs.
For most circuits 1V isn't going to matter one way or another.
As for sound quality, this regulator has exceeded my expectations when powering the op-amp circuits I have tried it with.
Great job Jan and Mr. Jung!
There are a few op-amps, like the AD8610/20 that top out +/-13VDC. That's why I prefer +/-12VDC outputs.
For most circuits 1V isn't going to matter one way or another.
As for sound quality, this regulator has exceeded my expectations when powering the op-amp circuits I have tried it with.
Great job Jan and Mr. Jung!
Hi all
I hope to assemble at least one of these in the next week, a +5V and a ± 12V or 13V.
I just read the article about the 2000 improved version; waltjung.org/PDFs/Improved_PN_Regs.pdf
Are we supposed to be adding a pre-reg to this? 317, 337 or maybe those 5 pin ones 1963, 1315 than need the earth connection, would they work for the pre-reg?
It was mentioned I think once before in this thread but I don't seem to have noted where. IIRC, the 'bake off' used the pre-reg version.
Thanks
I hope to assemble at least one of these in the next week, a +5V and a ± 12V or 13V.
I just read the article about the 2000 improved version; waltjung.org/PDFs/Improved_PN_Regs.pdf
Are we supposed to be adding a pre-reg to this? 317, 337 or maybe those 5 pin ones 1963, 1315 than need the earth connection, would they work for the pre-reg?
It was mentioned I think once before in this thread but I don't seem to have noted where. IIRC, the 'bake off' used the pre-reg version.
Thanks
Also, sorry to have to ask. Ideally this should be in post one of this thread, or linked to from there, but I if it is I couldn't find. I recall there was some mention of 5 Volt version a few pages back but I also could find.
Can someone please point me to the resistor values for the +5V.
I have the AD817, LM4040 2.5v ref., 1N5222B 2.5V Zener.
Is it just R7 and R8 that need changing or others?
Should C3 and C9 be smaller values?
R3?
Anything else?
Current peak:
R1, 249 Ohms; says in the article that this allows 200mA if the pass transistor has gain of 40, I bought the DH4411 so should be that. I'm driving headphones and in case I need a peak current of a bit more than that, can someone please tell me, or point me to, what was the old resistor value, that I presume yielded a bit more current?
Current path:
If the headphones ask for some current, as there's only small caps where does it come from. It has to come from the main res caps?
The regulator can react to the dropping post reg voltage during current demand, but then the pre reg voltage will drop if there no current ready to deliver. Ultimately it comes from the mains supply via the transformer every 100ms, so won't caps still be required to drive even a small current into headphones?
Thanks
Can someone please point me to the resistor values for the +5V.
I have the AD817, LM4040 2.5v ref., 1N5222B 2.5V Zener.
Is it just R7 and R8 that need changing or others?
Should C3 and C9 be smaller values?
R3?
Anything else?
Current peak:
R1, 249 Ohms; says in the article that this allows 200mA if the pass transistor has gain of 40, I bought the DH4411 so should be that. I'm driving headphones and in case I need a peak current of a bit more than that, can someone please tell me, or point me to, what was the old resistor value, that I presume yielded a bit more current?
Current path:
If the headphones ask for some current, as there's only small caps where does it come from. It has to come from the main res caps?
The regulator can react to the dropping post reg voltage during current demand, but then the pre reg voltage will drop if there no current ready to deliver. Ultimately it comes from the mains supply via the transformer every 100ms, so won't caps still be required to drive even a small current into headphones?
Thanks
If the current transient lasts 1 microsecond (1µs) then the HF local supply rail decoupling will supply the majority of the short term current.
If the transient is 100µs duration, then the combination of HF + MF decoupling will supply most of the longer duration current.
If the transient is 10ms duration, then the combination of LF + HF + MF decoupling will supply most of the longer duration current.
Which is my whole point. This super reg has only some not particularity good 120uF caps.
In the 1990's, preceding 7815 7915 regs, one evening during some testing with a pals very expensive Hi-Fi, I got up to 40,000uF for a Linsley Hood class A pre-amp and it just sounded better and better with every extra 10,000uF. Smallish transformer, normal bridge. For the Philips 7350 DAC and two op-amp per channel output stage on my CD player I had 20,000uF of Nichicon KZ, Philips discrete regs, followed by a bank of Black Gates and Conductive Polymer. All of it improved and improved the sound. What seems like a ridiculous amount of capacitance. A similar supply fed the players digital board, with similar improvements.
Currently that supply is attached to my headphone board. Yet, adding another four Black Gates near the output chips did what those caps do, plenty more bass.
Recently I've been soldering a 0.33uF to the ± pins of op-amps and that has been giving us all a lot more transient response, especially in the mid area but is probably the treble area texturing the mid, and fuller louder bass.
I'd like it if these super regs did even better. But will I still need all those caps to give me bass and transient response that's not being limited?
In the 1990's, preceding 7815 7915 regs, one evening during some testing with a pals very expensive Hi-Fi, I got up to 40,000uF for a Linsley Hood class A pre-amp and it just sounded better and better with every extra 10,000uF. Smallish transformer, normal bridge. For the Philips 7350 DAC and two op-amp per channel output stage on my CD player I had 20,000uF of Nichicon KZ, Philips discrete regs, followed by a bank of Black Gates and Conductive Polymer. All of it improved and improved the sound. What seems like a ridiculous amount of capacitance. A similar supply fed the players digital board, with similar improvements.
Currently that supply is attached to my headphone board. Yet, adding another four Black Gates near the output chips did what those caps do, plenty more bass.
Recently I've been soldering a 0.33uF to the ± pins of op-amps and that has been giving us all a lot more transient response, especially in the mid area but is probably the treble area texturing the mid, and fuller louder bass.
I'd like it if these super regs did even better. But will I still need all those caps to give me bass and transient response that's not being limited?
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