OK, I got it to fit in the dimensions I posted earlier. h60''x d42''x w25'' I wish I could have kept the first bend a little further out, but it's no big deal.
Here is the ruff in I just finished.
The only wasted space is in the three corners. It will have a side access panel. It will be about as simple a horn to build as you can get as well. You are looking at ~144dB at 30Hz with the 4-pack.
Any objections before I finish it up?
Here is the ruff in I just finished.
The only wasted space is in the three corners. It will have a side access panel. It will be about as simple a horn to build as you can get as well. You are looking at ~144dB at 30Hz with the 4-pack.
Any objections before I finish it up?
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I'm going with 18mm(3/4") ply.
There will be extensive bracing panels though out. Visually, a mixture of the Labsub and BFM's bracing schemes. All the 2' sections will be bisected. There will also be pieces connecting the two larger sides. The trick is to add them, and simplify the installation.
There will be extensive bracing panels though out. Visually, a mixture of the Labsub and BFM's bracing schemes. All the 2' sections will be bisected. There will also be pieces connecting the two larger sides. The trick is to add them, and simplify the installation.
OK, it's mostly done. I want to give it another once over, but I think it is mostly there.
The brown are finalized parts. Yellow are braces that need to be doubled like in the mouth, but the are a pain so I rendered only a single per area. The green corner is optional, and up to the builder whether it is added or not.
All braces should be 1/2". The yellows are rendered as 3/4", but use 1/2" when doubled.
If you feel like swiss-cheesing them go ahead.
The brown are finalized parts. Yellow are braces that need to be doubled like in the mouth, but the are a pain so I rendered only a single per area. The green corner is optional, and up to the builder whether it is added or not.
All braces should be 1/2". The yellows are rendered as 3/4", but use 1/2" when doubled.
If you feel like swiss-cheesing them go ahead.
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OK, here is the sketch-up, and final Hornresp numbers.
There are two different bracing methods shown in sketch-up, and all wood is sized correctly. The green corner is still up to the builder. You can leave it in, or chop it off.
All the corners to be removed are shown on the dimensional image as pink. Build the square sections, and then run a saw down the edge at the correct angle. A 10" blade should handle them all in one pass, other than the optional green corner.
There are two different bracing methods shown in sketch-up, and all wood is sized correctly. The green corner is still up to the builder. You can leave it in, or chop it off.
All the corners to be removed are shown on the dimensional image as pink. Build the square sections, and then run a saw down the edge at the correct angle. A 10" blade should handle them all in one pass, other than the optional green corner.
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I would recommend buying Bill Fitzmaurice's plans for this THT sub to get a better idea of how to piece it together. They are not the same, but they are similar. Some of the same steps and tricks will work here, and will save the builder from an " Oh FUDGE!" moment or two.
Tuba HT
At ~$15 it can't hurt.
Tuba HT
At ~$15 it can't hurt.
For some reason I didn't upload the last auto update. 
I would measure from this image below in the sketch up model. All internal pieces are the same width, so it is all you really need.
Don't worry about the braces to much. Any shape will do. The only two to watch for are the mouth fin, it should stay around 10-15" long, and the one right in front of the driver. You just need to brace the section without closing it off. Four small squares would work here.
Once you get a side cut out to the proper dimensions just draw this onto it. Then add in your own braces in the same general area as the model. If you go with the one on the far right all you have to do is cut one braces per spot, and center it.
I left all corners, and overlap up to the builder. That is what all the triangles are about. All he has to do is pick the joining method he feels most comfortable with, and ignore the rest.
I used mm in the sim for accuracy, and cm should be used when building to keep it square.
Don't worry about the braces to much. Any shape will do. The only two to watch for are the mouth fin, it should stay around 10-15" long, and the one right in front of the driver. You just need to brace the section without closing it off. Four small squares would work here.
Once you get a side cut out to the proper dimensions just draw this onto it. Then add in your own braces in the same general area as the model. If you go with the one on the far right all you have to do is cut one braces per spot, and center it.
I left all corners, and overlap up to the builder. That is what all the triangles are about. All he has to do is pick the joining method he feels most comfortable with, and ignore the rest.
I used mm in the sim for accuracy, and cm should be used when building to keep it square.
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