Please help! How is this SOOO loud and low?

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I've got a design in hornresp with six 15" crap-drivers in a front-loaded horn which will install in the back of my truck and do 142db at 55hz with 1500 watts input. Is there any combination of Digital Designs components in any of their recommended configurations that'll do 142db at any frequency given equal input power?

Any single 15 inch sub from Digital Designs should do that number happily with that power input in a bog standard bass reflex enclosure. I've used two DD2515s (their cheapest 15's at the time) and 3,000 watts to hit 151 at 50hz. Now if you want 142db at 20hz you may well need a bit more displacement.

Why don't they give up proper specifications like the rest of the crap-driver companies (Pyle, Pyramid, Eminence, etc)? In my not so humble opinion, this company looks like a joke.

They give sufficient specs to start off a box design.

A joke that brakes many world records including first single driver install to break 180db in dbdrags.

I'm not recommending their subs for home audio use - however they did start out as a manufacturer of high end PA drivers. And they do produce a quality product, that genuinely is a world leader in their current target market.
 
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Hi,

FYI,If my added T/S parameters are ok, see the picture.then IMO a closed box solution (placed in a car) would be better SQ-wise when compared to Compound Horn's or TH/T-TQWT:s.

b
 

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  • Audioque HDC3xx-TH_T-TQWT.GIF
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Any single 15 inch sub from Digital Designs should do that number happily with that power input in a bog standard bass reflex enclosure. I've used two DD2515s (their cheapest 15's at the time) and 3,000 watts to hit 151 at 50hz. Now if you want 142db at 20hz you may well need a bit more displacement.

I'm having a hard time with that.. the OP indicates that the sensitivity of the driver is 91 db. 1500 watts yields another 31.76 db - that's barely 123 db. You're indicating that the remaining 19+ db (142-123) comes from a ported box and room modes?
 
I'm having a hard time with that.. the OP indicates that the sensitivity of the driver is 91 db. 1500 watts yields another 31.76 db - that's barely 123 db. You're indicating that the remaining 19+ db (142-123) comes from a ported box and room modes?

It's definitely possible - vehicle acoustics can make mid-140s at single frequencies possible with less than you'd think. Which is also part of the reason why building something that sounds musical is a challenge :)
 
I genuinely want to know how this is happening. Seriously. Heres the design. You guys tell me how it works.

33 wide
22 deep
17 tall

l1 is 15
l2 is 19 1/2
l3 is 11 going into the 45 degree up 5 inches on one side and down 5.5 inches on the other.

Unravel how this is nothign special, and please point me in ther direction of the better sounding/louder box.

BTG
 
I genuinely want to know how this is happening. Seriously. Heres the design. You guys tell me how it works.

33 wide
22 deep
17 tall

l1 is 15
l2 is 19 1/2
l3 is 11 going into the 45 degree up 5 inches on one side and down 5.5 inches on the other.

Unravel how this is nothign special, and please point me in ther direction of the better sounding/louder box.

BTG

There's no mystery. It's a resonant line. DONE. Yes, a scoop or horn proper would work better. It may be that it's a perfect carbox for your needs though, so if you're that happy, why go any further? This isn't a place where you can get everyone to do your homework for you. Look up quarterwave resonators. That's all it really is. A horn proper, or larger line would give more output and/or lower output. But if it's tuned centered on where you want the thump, you're fine.
 
Markus, I'm not sure that is intended as an insult. I am reading it as his recognition of the abilities of those on board here and that they offer assistance for free. While many of us don't have a real interest in the project, I think perhaps he is young, full of questions and wants to experience an even better box than he has now.

Mind you, it would be nice if he did a little homework. The amount of time spent typing questions and waiting for answers could have been better spent googling bass horns and bass transmission line theories.
 
I genuinely want to know how this is happening. Seriously. Heres the design. You guys tell me how it works.

33 wide
22 deep
17 tall

l1 is 15
l2 is 19 1/2
l3 is 11 going into the 45 degree up 5 inches on one side and down 5.5 inches on the other.

Unravel how this is nothign special, and please point me in ther direction of the better sounding/louder box.

BTG

Hi BTG,

Can you provide the dimensioning data needed for simulating your speaker with MJK:s program: TL-Sections?

b
 

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  • BGT-horn.GIF
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"I am reading it as his recognition of the abilities of those on board here and that they offer assistance for free."

^^^^^^^ Nailed it.

"Mind you, it would be nice if he did a little homework. The amount of time spent typing questions and waiting for answers could have been better spent googling bass horns and bass transmission line theories. "

I do that all day long... lol

Here you guys go, I think my dim are off by a little bit since they don't match what I tild you earlier. Since I build this box a lot, I don't need plans and I made this just to look at. Again this is my FIRST attempt with Sketchup.....
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Thank you all for helping me out
 
I genuinely want to know how this is happening. Seriously. Heres the design. You guys tell me how it works.

33 wide
22 deep
17 tall

l1 is 15
l2 is 19 1/2
l3 is 11 going into the 45 degree up 5 inches on one side and down 5.5 inches on the other.

Unravel how this is nothign special, and please point me in ther direction of the better sounding/louder box.

BTG

I probably wasn't real clear in my first post, but what I meant is that everyone here is going to look at that in terms of how it models relative to known designs. There is a good chance that what you have is really nothing special and indeed it's probably not optimized for anything in particular. The main point of my post, however, was that analyzing what Exactly Is going on with that specific box geometry wont be done properly with usual formulas or canned softwares with a few coefficients to plug in because you have some totally arbitrary funny business going on with odd arrangements of volumes, cross sections, and features that will not allow the air column to be compressed or driven to flow in a highly predictable manner over an interesting band of frequencies. If you seriously think there is some science going on in there you'll have to dig in.
 
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I also noticed every single time I change ANYTHING in the system, you can hear the diff. I consider that a clear indication that this is a non-typical box. I tweaked thousands of systems, and this one actually suprises me. I have something called a Maxx LInk from Hifonics that controls upper and lower freq cutoff and slope, input sensitivity, output sensitivity, cross-over point, subsonic cutoff, freq to boost and gain on that boost. It is crazy, but every time I adjust something even slightly - you can tell.

This box is pretty decent from 20-45hz. I have a vid of it playing 20hz, <don't argue this point, save it or IM me, I can put up a link of the vid if you want, and yes the camera picks it up.

Here is another shot of the box.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Ii had another post but it is not up for somereason.
 
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