Please help! How is this SOOO loud and low?

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Anyone have a link for Mr Kings sweet goodness sofware so I may further my knowledge.
Also, I should note, Cal nailed it in post 33.

I would like you guys input good and bad, so far we have -
1.) I am swinging my meatstick
2.) it's a one note wonder,
3.) it's nothing special.

I would love to be able to conquer this "nothing special" design so as to avoid special education and the short bus, I am 34 so it might be too late for me, lol.

I realize this is a DIY forum, but I don't want to do-it-myself - thus, I am here, funny I know. It took a lot to decide to post this, I don't know how this box works, and don't want to end up and an altar boy on the heels of the uber-cathol-quater-wave-bishops. Ok, that wouldn't be so bad... lol. <--- truely how I feel

Aboot dis software, eh...
 
and please point me in ther direction of the better sounding/louder box.

Those can be very conflicting directions...

I used to have a thread on SSA that had links to a lot of good info for speaker designing. I'm sure I posted the MJK and t-linespeakers.org links there. Unless those have been replaced since I was banned, I have no idea...haven't been on that forum in a year now. The admins there and I don't exactly see eye to eye.
 
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Anyone have a link for Mr Kings sweet goodness sofware so I may further my knowledge.
Also, I should note, Cal nailed it in post 33.

I would like you guys input good and bad, so far we have -
1.) I am swinging my meatstick
2.) it's a one note wonder,
3.) it's nothing special.

I would love to be able to conquer this "nothing special" design so as to avoid special education and the short bus, I am 34 so it might be too late for me, lol.

I realize this is a DIY forum, but I don't want to do-it-myself - thus, I am here, funny I know. It took a lot to decide to post this, I don't know how this box works, and don't want to end up and an altar boy on the heels of the uber-cathol-quater-wave-bishops. Ok, that wouldn't be so bad... lol. <--- truely how I feel

Aboot dis software, eh...

Don't worry about the skepticism. Make a drawing that show's all the missing dimensions and make it as close to your wonder box as possible.

Is that Hifonics trick the only thing in the signal path other than the power amp?

I'm just curious.. How's the response when driving into a larger volume, like outside a vehicle etc.
 
Yea, Glowplug, I got into it with the owner of Fi(the infallable I-Own-FI-And-You-Don't) on that site over a warranty issue. I did see a lot of really good articles, gap treatment, coil design, fabrication, I was impressed with the knowledge-base. But you ask what I am asking and you get flamed like Elton in the late '80s.

"and please point me in ther direction of the better sounding/louder box. "
^
My trump card for any who say this is a typical box and nothing special. I, like everyone else here, want something special like ed.

Heres a vid of another set of 15s with 1500 watts in the same style boxes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_-XNyTY8nk
 
''Don't worry about the skepticism. Make a drawing that show's all the missing dimensions and make it as close to your wonder box as possible. ''

Done pics posted, off by very little.

'Is that Hifonics trick the only thing in the signal path other than the power amp?''

Yes that is the only thing between the deck and the amps, one amp handles + and the other -

"I'm just curious.. How's the response when driving into a larger volume, like outside a vehicle etc. "

It unloads completely, and sounds brown and squishy. Almost REQUIRES 1/8th space to work at all.... Like if the back wave does not see enough resistance? I can check for impedance rise... trunk open and closed.
 
The reason this hasn't been modelled yet is because it's too much work to get the appropriate dimensions from the pictures you posted. If you do the work I'm sure it will get modelled right away. We need to know the exact volume of the back chamber. Then we need the cross sectional area of the line at several different points - the throat, at the beginning, apex, and end of the little triangular "chamber", and at the mouth. Then we need to know the length of each of these sections. I could figure it all out myself but I'm not going to.
 
Danley has used car drivers. I haven't. But I have used the Tang Band w6-1139, which is not dissimilar to car drivers. Especially when you consider that my measured specs are considerably different than published - higher fs, for example - that are comparable to some car drivers with high xmax that like small boxes.
 
I got it, thanks for being so patient. I did not multiply each sq area by the hight, I figured I would add that separatley. Heres the meat and potatoes....

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


I will multiply each number by 15.5 for each sections total cubic feet, should I just upload this to the Sketchup community so you guys and see this model??
 
Well... I see some numbers and lines but it's all too small to see exactly what you are doing.

Just to give you an idea of what I can work with, check out the pic below. I need to know the volume of air behind the driver before the "port" starts. Then, I need cross sectional area of the line at every point where the cross sectional area changes, and the length of each segment. In the picture you posted it's hard to tell where the csa changes, but if you could get a reading at each red line and the distances between the red lines that should be enouth to work with. Maybe that's what you are already doing but I can't tell. Give me all this info and I can sort through what's important and what's not.

Just remember, I need cross sectional areas and lengths at different spots in the "port". NOT total cubic feet of the sections. The only area where I need total cubic feet is the area behind the driver, before the "port" starts.

fz6tdc.jpg
 
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