Live sound specific Tapped Horn thread...

That is like the statement of
"everything is a bandpass".

A RLH (scoop) is not a TH nor is a a cabinet like
the EV T18. A TH has to have the radiation from the mouth side able to transmit down the horn path to the throat and back. Distance of which aligns those phases. So this means the angle of the driver mount is crucial.

But then again I wouldn't call a TL a reflex.
And also would call your current truck (?) enclosure a dual tuned 4th order BP.

I sim'd the driver in the same cab as that Beyma.
Which was slightly bigger than my Mini Clone. It didn't perform well at all. I am still fiddling with the sim but so far the driver really likes the 200 - 400 Lt range.
I never said "everything is a bandpass". I said all horn enclosures are bandpass based on a +/- 3db frequency response. RLH is nothing more than a vented box with a flared port.

The box in my truck is bandpass box with a flared 8" x 16" to 16" x 16" port split into two 4" x 16" to 8" x 16" ports. If you look at the Hornresp schematic, it looks like a car alarm horn.

I know, I'm trying to keep the box size under 200 liters with no more than a 20" x 16" mouth. I came up with this.
9272406.jpg

9272409.jpg

9272412.jpg

9272415.jpg

9272418.jpg

9272421.jpg

9272424.jpg
 
So I would not build a TH with this driver.
Your just wasting wood. The best bet is what you are using. A dual tuned 4th order BP.
147.4 Lt
143 DB at 49 Hz
24SB Slope at 29 hz (29 Hz is 126 DB)
I cant export pics but here is the HR data

ID=23.40
Ang=0.5 x Pi
Eg=120.00
Rg=0.00
Fta=0.01
S1=780.00
S2=780.50
Con=52.00
F12=0.00
S2=0.00
S3=0.00
L23=0.00
F23=0.00
S3=0.00
S4=0.00
L34=0.00
F34=0.00
S4=0.00
S5=0.00
L45=0.00
F45=0.00
Sd=1056.00
Bl=27.90
Cms=1.04E-04
Rms=8.85
Mmd=332.90
Le=6.28
Re=7.10
Nd=1
Vrc=81.00
Lrc=40.00
Ap=206.00
Lpt=38.00
Vtc=18000.00
Atc=500.00
Com=X2 Kicker 15L7 2 or 4 ohm DVC 1k rms 2k max 89.4 Db 16mm X

Also the best thing I came up with is a scoop.
ID=23.40
Ang=2.0 x Pi
Eg=135.00
Rg=0.10
Fta=5.13
S1=400.00
S2=3200.00
Con=230.00
F12=0.00
S2=0.00
S3=0.00
L23=0.00
F23=0.00
S3=0.00
S4=0.00
L34=0.00
F34=0.00
S4=0.00
S5=0.00
L45=0.00
F45=0.00
Sd=1056.00
Bl=27.90
Cms=1.04E-04
Rms=8.85
Mmd=332.90
Le=6.28
Re=7.10
Nd=1
Vrc=30.00
Lrc=28.00
Ap=0.00
Lpt=0.00
Vtc=4000.00
Atc=830.00
Com=Kicker 15L7 2 or 4 ohm DVC 1k rms 2k max 89.4 Db 16mm RLH

Was going to try it in some hybrid ported FLH just havent yet. Though I doubt I would be able to get them below 200 Lt anyway.
 
So I would not build a TH with this driver.
Your just wasting wood. The best bet is what you are using. A dual tuned 4th order BP.
147.4 Lt
143 DB at 49 Hz
24SB Slope at 29 hz (29 Hz is 126 DB)
I cant export pics but here is the HR data

ID=23.40
Ang=0.5 x Pi
Eg=120.00
Rg=0.00
Fta=0.01
S1=780.00
S2=780.50
Con=52.00
F12=0.00
S2=0.00
S3=0.00
L23=0.00
F23=0.00
S3=0.00
S4=0.00
L34=0.00
F34=0.00
S4=0.00
S5=0.00
L45=0.00
F45=0.00
Sd=1056.00
Bl=27.90
Cms=1.04E-04
Rms=8.85
Mmd=332.90
Le=6.28
Re=7.10
Nd=1
Vrc=81.00
Lrc=40.00
Ap=206.00
Lpt=38.00
Vtc=18000.00
Atc=500.00
Com=X2 Kicker 15L7 2 or 4 ohm DVC 1k rms 2k max 89.4 Db 16mm X

Also the best thing I came up with is a scoop.
ID=23.40
Ang=2.0 x Pi
Eg=135.00
Rg=0.10
Fta=5.13
S1=400.00
S2=3200.00
Con=230.00
F12=0.00
S2=0.00
S3=0.00
L23=0.00
F23=0.00
S3=0.00
S4=0.00
L34=0.00
F34=0.00
S4=0.00
S5=0.00
L45=0.00
F45=0.00
Sd=1056.00
Bl=27.90
Cms=1.04E-04
Rms=8.85
Mmd=332.90
Le=6.28
Re=7.10
Nd=1
Vrc=30.00
Lrc=28.00
Ap=0.00
Lpt=0.00
Vtc=4000.00
Atc=830.00
Com=Kicker 15L7 2 or 4 ohm DVC 1k rms 2k max 89.4 Db 16mm RLH

Was going to try it in some hybrid ported FLH just havent yet. Though I doubt I would be able to get them below 200 Lt anyway.
Thank you for your help Flipc! How come my 151L "Unhorn" came out with better power handling, group delay, and flatter response than your 147L dual tuned 4th order BP and 397L Scoop? Notice in my pic @ 1,500 watts, there is no red in the graph from 27hz on up. Based on that type of graph, your dual tuned 4th order BP is only good to 280 watts. Your scoop is only good to 150 watts. Remember, this enclosure is for a truck. All I need is a F3 around 60hz. Cabin gain is going to give me 20-25db's @ 20hz.
 
YOU ARE NOT GOING TO LIKE THIS

After more than 30 cabinets and months of every possible minute,
countless sleepless nights, 6 lbs lost, and a decimated pile of wood, I have reached the following conclusion:

A DIY low spl 20-80 or 40-100hz Tapped horn sub for home use is
fairly easy to come up with help from hornresp. They sound good too.

A DIY TH under 40x30x24, with an average output from 42hz to 120hz at 103 db +-2 db that is equal to two direct radiators, that is portable enough to fit 4 in a van with everything else for high spl pro sound use.....is not possible. Unless you are Tom Danley.
The closest I came was 102.5db average but poor response below 50hz equal to the direct radiator. That cabinet had a ton of angles and tapering parts pieced together by hand such that it would be next to impossible to turn out 6 properly built cabinets with decent hand tools. To make matters worse there was a lot of instinctual work in it making it impossible to re-model the built box in horn resp. The top end was really nice and it certainly sent my only titan to the scrap heap (along with every shred of BFM paperwork).
Sorry Folks.

Anyone got a really good double 15 box plan???
Maybe one of those angled jobs with the drivers facing each other.


Did I miss something while digging around here for what you settled on?

What happened to the Fury Box?

I'm still looking for a smaller box to replace my LAB subs. Working solo now and just don't need the output of four all the time. I recalled the Fury and looked around but, I can't find the details.
 
"There is a DJ running around Orlando with eight 36 inch versions of Jbells sub, they sounded pretty good. Similar to my 36" bulldogs I posted a while back. He had BFM Tubas originally and I've invited him to join in here but I have not seen him yet."

Isn't the width of Jbell's sub 24 inches internally / 26inches externally?

Is that not yet the optimum width for the design?

Ben
 
hello all.
after countless hour's of reading all the post's on tapped horn's,ive have done some moddeling myself.
ive have tryed a symetric design ,and came up with these 2.
intended for pro audio use.
this is my first post on this forum ,so i hope i get the pic's right
diy.jpg


th%20sym.jpg
sym%20th.jpg
 
I have been thinking about the same design for a while.
Would be really interesting if you built it and measured.

On a side note, I wonder if one could fold the two halves asymmetrically to spread out resonances but keeping them the same length.
Or maybe slightly different but within 1/4-1/8 wavelength.

In the right version you could possibly fit a compression chamber if desired.
 
hi david.
i'm not gone bild them.i dont have storige space.
i need 2 sel my 4 w-bins first.

also crossed my mind what would hapen if one makes one side a little longer/shorter.

if you ad a compression chamber responce is flatter and it goes lower.
then i can shorten the horn 10~20 cm.
looks even better:D
 
"There is a DJ running around Orlando with eight 36 inch versions of Jbells sub, they sounded pretty good. Similar to my 36" bulldogs I posted a while back. He had BFM Tubas originally and I've invited him to join in here but I have not seen him yet."

Isn't the width of Jbell's sub 24 inches internally / 26inches externally?

Is that not yet the optimum width for the design?

Ben

The bulldog and the orlando guy's cabs measure 36x36 sides at 21 or 24 wide.
The idea was a square base, stable stacking system. 3 cabs nested or locked on their side for a 6 ft stack. My horn loaded mid/highs would nest into that three per side as well.

Sorry guys But I've been just trying to stay afloat lately and I'm now alone at my day job (with pay cuts). The fury subs are still hammering away 5 nights a week putting food on the table. They have been built around the world by a bunch of people who've emailed. I still recommend the danleys and VTCs anyway. I am sloooowwlly working on a small line array type system similar to the bose job that will need subs so I'm looking at the small th's or a pair of triple 12 cheap rubber surround driver subs. It's for karaoke and small gigs where the band only has 50-100 bucks for sound. More of a service than a moneymaker. 16 2" drivers per cab. Integrated sidefill monitors with an additional 8-12 2" drivers. Led light bar on top to light the band.
I did think about a tall 12" tapped with the 2 inch driver line array in the center but moving it would be an issue.

Glad to see you are all still at it.