Hi DragonMaster,
I have the same tendency! But audio topics are mostly broad; no use to discuss in isolation or with blinders on. Matters that will be influenced by the main thread also need to be touched - thus you were not off thread.
No, it does not seem that your Toshiba would give up the ghost easily. But I must admit my ignorance and lack of experience of commercial products. Never had the money to buy or opportunity to experience numbers of such. Others will have to oblige there (as Chris did).
Regards
I have the same tendency! But audio topics are mostly broad; no use to discuss in isolation or with blinders on. Matters that will be influenced by the main thread also need to be touched - thus you were not off thread.
No, it does not seem that your Toshiba would give up the ghost easily. But I must admit my ignorance and lack of experience of commercial products. Never had the money to buy or opportunity to experience numbers of such. Others will have to oblige there (as Chris did).
Regards
Oh, and still off topic, were you getting something good if you bought amp + cassette + tuner + speakers for 500$ back in '84? (That was the Toshiba set)
The only problems I have with it are the cheapo pot and breaking non-momentary switches. (If you would know how many times I pressed on these when I was small...)
The only problems I have with it are the cheapo pot and breaking non-momentary switches. (If you would know how many times I pressed on these when I was small...)
Hi DragonMaster,
In 1978, $500 CDN got you a good mid powered receiver. Add $150 to get up into a 65 W Marantz. Or was it 85 W? Those were excellent sets.
Did I tell you about the bar that killed a Bryston 4B? They installed a Marantz 2385B and killed 10 sets of speakers before killing the Marantz. The bar was the Airport Strip. Just think, they sold these Marantz sets to the general public! Heavy stinker too.
In 1984, audio was sliding big time. You had to go separates to get something good by then. There was not much like the cool stuff in the late Seventies and really early Eighties.
So your dad bought some okay stuff for the time. Sure beat some of the really bad stuff that was out.
-Chris
In 1978, $500 CDN got you a good mid powered receiver. Add $150 to get up into a 65 W Marantz. Or was it 85 W? Those were excellent sets.
Did I tell you about the bar that killed a Bryston 4B? They installed a Marantz 2385B and killed 10 sets of speakers before killing the Marantz. The bar was the Airport Strip. Just think, they sold these Marantz sets to the general public! Heavy stinker too.
In 1984, audio was sliding big time. You had to go separates to get something good by then. There was not much like the cool stuff in the late Seventies and really early Eighties.
So your dad bought some okay stuff for the time. Sure beat some of the really bad stuff that was out.
-Chris
Killing amps is a sport with most bar DJ's. I think they get extra points when they do something really stupid. Bonus points if they can slide it through warranty.
Bar owners tend to buy the cheapest stuff they can find. One bar had a Proximity amp. Five fires. One in each corner and one in the amp. Didn't bother taking the speakers, the amp was still full of soda. Fixed it under duress and the promise that even though it was fixed, they would never use it again.
-Chris
Bar owners tend to buy the cheapest stuff they can find. One bar had a Proximity amp. Five fires. One in each corner and one in the amp. Didn't bother taking the speakers, the amp was still full of soda. Fixed it under duress and the promise that even though it was fixed, they would never use it again.
-Chris
anatech said:
Son of a gun, You're right! I never thought of that! (duh.)
No wonder nothing I tried on the speaker cables/amp/grounding helped -it was probably something about the passive X-overs in the speakers!
Hum,maybe metal speakers boxes aren't such a bad idea.
Come to think of it,it wouldn't be too hard to line the inside of the (wood) box with some grounded foil shielding of some type.
(Perhaps a bit overkill,unless you have severe RF problems.)
Hello,
I did not try to build my own interconnects, but this topic brought me closer to do it. I am confused by the choice of selected cable. Since I am a beginner in this field my question is which type of cable should be used for interconnects\input wires: coax or two-wire shielded cable with shield connected on one end to the ground ?
I do not remember where I read it, but recommended wire for this purpose was shielded, two-wire one. The mentioned reason was shield not supposed to carry audio signal.
What are your opinions about it?
I did not try to build my own interconnects, but this topic brought me closer to do it. I am confused by the choice of selected cable. Since I am a beginner in this field my question is which type of cable should be used for interconnects\input wires: coax or two-wire shielded cable with shield connected on one end to the ground ?
I do not remember where I read it, but recommended wire for this purpose was shielded, two-wire one. The mentioned reason was shield not supposed to carry audio signal.
What are your opinions about it?
Hello,
I have never had RF problems with speaker cables. My question is in regards to interconnects and preamp wiring. I do not remember details of mentioned article, but the author mentioned polluted audio signal when shield is being used to carry audio signal. But, I have noticed that some DIYs use single-wire coax for preamp in\out internal wiring.
I have never had RF problems with speaker cables. My question is in regards to interconnects and preamp wiring. I do not remember details of mentioned article, but the author mentioned polluted audio signal when shield is being used to carry audio signal. But, I have noticed that some DIYs use single-wire coax for preamp in\out internal wiring.
Hi TB,
Cable in a dual shield works well. The outer shield is connected at the source component only. The inner shield operates as the return lead and the center conductor is the "hot". This works very well in really horribly noisy enviroments. I imagine balanced signal cable would work in a similar way if the outer shield is only connected at one end.
-Chris
Cable in a dual shield works well. The outer shield is connected at the source component only. The inner shield operates as the return lead and the center conductor is the "hot". This works very well in really horribly noisy enviroments. I imagine balanced signal cable would work in a similar way if the outer shield is only connected at one end.
-Chris
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