diyAB Amp The "Honey Badger" build thread - Page 29 - diyAudio
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Old 10th April 2013, 09:00 PM   #281
ncg2013 is offline ncg2013  United Kingdom
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Default Heatsink size...

Hi All

I am going to build my own aluminium enclosure for this amp and wanted to use a 150 x 150 x 40mm heatsink. 2 per channel. Would this be enough? The Big Amp chassis is 200mm length, would a reduction of 50mm make much difference?

transformer will be 40-0-40.
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Old 10th April 2013, 09:34 PM   #282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chunek View Post
Hi Daniel, Thanks for your recommendation! I wish I have the space to install this fast reacting power supply but it is limited.
Last few days, I did some high volume test with c11, c15 of 2.2uf caps, the 4 ohm speakers started to sound like not feed well when volume > 50%. I had 4 pcs of Nichicon muse 47uf caps on hand. After changing that, it came back to normal. Now enjoying the music and happy with this setup.
Hi James,
Actually my recommendation was 94u per rail (paralleled pairs 47u--an easy "no plastic" bypass). But, I'm glad you got it working nicely and significantly closer to specs than previously.

Tip: Next time you have a ringing bypass situation to repair, swap the bypass cap, not the large cap. Since you mentioned Nichicon Muse, I remembered that I often use 0.47u and 1u and even smaller sizes of Nichicon electrolytic caps to bypass larger electrolytic. I've absolutely no idea why that is far easier than finding a just right smaller size of plastic cap. But, bypassing is often a case of go with what works.

Easiest possible bypass is fully identical paralleling of same model cap, such as the working example of 220u||220u (440u) Panasonic FC for NFB feedback-shunt cap. Somewhere back a few posts, this upgrade was used and reviewed.
Sizing in that area is also affected by input cap size in this way: Don't put more in than can go through. So, by ear, you'd just try to find the smallest input cap that you can use without decreasing the bass, much (although do try to decrease the boomy). A just right size, at both locations, will do clearer, higher quality bass, and may reveal higher quality bari as well. You'll find out really soon.
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Last edited by danielwritesbac; 10th April 2013 at 09:42 PM.
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Old 16th April 2013, 09:02 PM   #283
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Default Impressions? Opinoins? How does this amp sound?

Hello all,
After reading 99% of the build post's on the Badger, I'm looking for opinions on the Badger, How does it sound built with all the original parts in the original PDF build guide listed at diyAudio?
I have the boards but have not ordered any parts yet.
Or what would you have done differently?
Thanks
webechillin
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Old 17th April 2013, 03:30 PM   #284
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Hi All,

I'm in the process of sourcing all the parts to build this, but I'm running into problems finding the KSC1845 and the KSA992. They don't seem to be offered by the major distributors in small quantities. The build document mentioned there would be easy to find alternatives, but don't list anything for Q3-Q9.. which are the only ones I need. the rest of the parts were no problem besides the Noble resistors which I'm also trying to track down.

thanks, looking forward to getting started on this!

-jay
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Old 17th April 2013, 09:46 PM   #285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Webechillin View Post
Or what would you have done differently?
I wouldn't change anything if using Honey Badger for outdoor prosound. However, for indoor use, I would change C4 to 220uF.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mindriot View Post
I'm in the process of sourcing all the parts to build this, but I'm running into problems finding the KSC1845 and the KSA992.
Go back to post # 79 and click on the links. Presto! Parts found.
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Last edited by danielwritesbac; 17th April 2013 at 09:49 PM.
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Old 20th April 2013, 08:20 AM   #286
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Anybody check This. It will Working..
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Old 28th April 2013, 01:22 PM   #287
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Default Treble nitpick

Quote:
Originally Posted by kclusa@yahoo.co View Post
Will try Panasonic FC 220uF 63V X 2. It is way easier than adding DC Servo.
I'm glad that worked for your extra clean bass.
But, I'd like to apologize for doing an incomplete job, especially at the treble and related harmonics. According to the schematic, R4 current drives C3, a southside RC, a treble reducer, a bad cap simulator (4.7R added to ESR of C3 = bad cap). To reverse that I've come up with a plan. There may be caveats! This mod might blow up, might waste 26 cents and it may or may not be audible. Please regard it as experimental.

Insert a fractional value electrolytic cap at groundpoint G2; from the new cap with added 1R4 to create an RC; then that new 1R4 connects to the point where C3 meets R5. This has bypassed the treble loss with an RC, and since it doesn't fit the board, it has also bypassed the "sound of" the board, whatever that may be. Well, I guessed the values and so you may want to fine tune that.

Groundlift resistors that exceed approximately 2R2 may cause audio band treble droop (response tilt) at NFB-Shunt cap. Honey Badger's groundlift resistor does exceed that estimated value, but only slightly, so this post was a nitpick. I just wanted to make certain to outperform a DC tracker, making it unnecessary by doing a cleaner job with ordinary passive parts.
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Last edited by danielwritesbac; 28th April 2013 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 28th April 2013, 02:18 PM   #288
cod3gen is offline cod3gen  Norway
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What could case R25 to burn up? Just finished with 2ch`s, one seems to be fine, but the other overheats R25..

Edit: According to schematics, it seems like R25 and R13 should be G2, but on the board, they are on G1? Not that i think that would cause R25 to burn up, but just wondering.
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Old 28th April 2013, 06:47 PM   #289
cod3gen is offline cod3gen  Norway
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Short between Emitter Q3/Collector Q1 and Emitter Q2. All fine now, but still wondering about that GND for R25 and R13
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Old 28th April 2013, 11:54 PM   #290
chunek is offline chunek  Singapore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cod3gen View Post
Short between Emitter Q3/Collector Q1 and Emitter Q2. All fine now, but still wondering about that GND for R25 and R13
Hi cod3gen,

G2 is small signal gnd isolates the power supply gnd an CCS gnd by resistor and diodes. And, G1 is purely star gnd which provides all the power supply gnd and other gnd to form a Kirchoff 0V, 0A note.

As R13 and R15 are part of CCS and we all do not wish the current will flow back and pollute to signal side. It is correct to conncted after the isolation circuit and back to star gnd G1.


James
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