First discrete amp, Need help with NTE 390, 391, 375, 398, and BD140, 139 project

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A gift, this is a real working amp, not sim 17$ to build as
schema's BOM.. FA1B
OS
 

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Hi Dan,
You've started building audio at a perfect time. The On Semi parts are about as good as they have ever been - ever. You have some great documented projects that will work with minimal trouble too! You'll do fine.

One note though. Building a circuit to sound "tube like" isn't always good. Transistors seldom sound like tubes. Given the cost, you could build one of each and decide then. You will not be wasting heat sinks or power supplies and will find out for yourself. Your parts can be recycled into your chosen design.

The finer points of building a really good amplifier can be implemented at the same time. Now you can match your transistors in the diff pair and current mirrors. Matching the output transistors can reduce your distortion by a factor of 10 before feedback. Neat eh? So now you can learn hands on.

Spend most of your time planning the project, this makes all the difference in the world.

Merry Christmas!!

-Chris :santa2:
 
Now that I look , you will need 2 each of 100uf@63v and .1uf@100v for rails. I tailored this one for lower rails (40-45v)
it should be good for even lower rails (35v with R8-330R0
notice how Ma's in first plot go NEGATIVE (that is the strangeness
of bootstrapping.. The wattage at 45v is about 70W/8 -125W/4
you will also need a zoble network...same as lm3886..


Frugalamp_LCR.gif


BTW - here is what sort of "footprint" an amp like this has..
scroll down a little..board and wooden case..:D
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1661337#post1661337
FA1 with junk trafo (45-0-45) and about 80$ parts,
Big caps are real expensive (45$)..
OS
 
anatech said:
Hi Dan,
. . .
One note though. Building a circuit to sound "tube like" isn't always good. Transistors seldom sound like tubes. Given the cost, you could build one of each and decide then.
. . .
Spend most of your time planning the project, this makes all the difference in the world.

Merry Christmas!!

-Chris :santa2:

Thank you!
And, its not about sounding tube-like. . .

Either the "parallel amplifier," with low gain, with an additional preamplification stage -OR- the "bootstrap cap amp," with normal gain and a great quality power circuit. . . will give me what I'm looking for.

If there is a question as to why, I'll have to defer to your guess being more accurate than if I were to attempt explaining. So, just guess. ;)
 
ostripper said:
Now that I look , you will need 2 each of 100uf@63v and .1uf@100v for rails. I tailored this one for lower rails (40-45v)
it should be good for even lower rails (35v with R8-330R0
notice how Ma's in first plot go NEGATIVE (that is the strangeness
of bootstrapping.. The wattage at 45v is about 70W/8 -125W/4
you will also need a zoble network...same as lm3886..


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


BTW - here is what sort of "footprint" an amp like this has..
scroll down a little..board and wooden case..:D
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1661337#post1661337
FA1 with junk trafo (45-0-45) and about 80$ parts,
Big caps are real expensive (45$)..
OS

Oh thank you.

I haven't been transformer shopping yet, but I'll do it now.
For reference a 60vct (30&30vac) is going to make a steady -42+42vdc on one of my power supplies or -48+48vdc on the other style. I'll be right back.
 
Okay, this:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=122-685
With 1 KPBC2504 (or 4 standard diodes) and 4 little caps makes 50vdc

Or this:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=122-680
With 4 MR756 (or MUR860) makes 48vdc
With 8 MR756 (or MUR860) makes 45vdc
With 2 KBPC2504 (or 8 standard diodes) and 8 little caps makes 40vdc
With 1 KBPC2504 (or 4 standard diodes) and 4 little caps makes 42vdc

EDIT: Single rectifier versions, with snubbed standard diodes, don't require expensive caps.

The one in italics is on-spec for a classic amp.

There is also a dual mono version possible.

So, what do you think?
 
Way too expensive..

http://www.antekinc.com/AN-5435.pdf

And pricelist..http://www.antekinc.com/price1.html
AN 5435...$55.00 +10 UPS ha ha
500va is all you need for 2 amps , just buy 2- $3.00
25A bridge rectifiers at mouser + 8 $4.00 4700uf 80v
nichelons as well...
FAPS.jpg


Since you are buying new, consider 45-0-45 or 50-0-50
AN -5445/50 ($57.00)for future headroom.
OS

BTW , above has 4 snubbers per module (heatsinked bridge) and
bleeder resistor/rail decoupling...1u/100v/ blue/red led
"idiot" lights.. :D
 
ostripper said:
Way too expensive..

http://www.antekinc.com/AN-5435.pdf

And pricelist..http://www.antekinc.com/price1.html
AN 5435...$55.00 +10 UPS ha ha
500va is all you need for 2 amps , just buy 2- $3.00
25A bridge rectifiers at mouser + 8 $4.00 4700uf 80v
nichelons as well...
FAPS.jpg


Since you are buying new, consider 45-0-45 or 50-0-50
AN -5445/50 ($57.00)for future headroom.
OS

BTW , above has 4 snubbers per module (heatsinked bridge) and
bleeder resistor/rail decoupling...1u/100v/ blue/red led
"idiot" lights.. :D


Thank you!

May I use 51vdc rails along with 1 of NJW3281G (NPN) and 1 of NJW1302G (PNP) output transistors? This results in about $40 less price for me, due mostly to the decreased price of capacitors and the slightly decreased price of heatsinking. The 51vdc rails seems to be an advantageous range, also with barely any cost difference between dual mono (3a each) versus stereo (5a) options.
 
keantoken said:
Hey guys.

About your 17$ amp, what is the purpose of R6? It should not be needed to balance the LTP. However, it may help HF by "taming" Q2's Cjc.

Thank you,
- keantoken

I'm not regretting the price of a resistor. In the mid 70's, this amplifier would have cost the same price as a brand new Dodge Dart with A/C and the extra-size engine. Both would last 30 years. The amplifier is nicer than the car. :D
 
Resistors come in multi-packs anyways. There's no way to save by removing just one resistor... If you leave it though, no need for it to be 1k, 100 or even 10 might do. Try taking it out in simulation and see what the 20KHz THD does...

Hey Lineup.

I would love to get in on some discussion about amp designing, just to see what I know and to learn more...

But whenever I see them, the gurus have already beat me to them, and there's nothing left for me...

- keantoken
 
Disabled Account
Joined 2007
danielwritesbac said:
what is the difference in the current mirror? Is it not much difference or is it something specific?


Hi Dan,
A current mirror is just that - a "mirror" copy of the current flowing through one is copied in the second. The benefits are lower distortion (better linearity) through the input and improved power supply ripple rejection (PSRR).
In other words, it's all good.
 
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