SSLV1.1 builds & fairy tales

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Despearce

Member
Joined 2014
Sorry for the beginner questions....

The board is split into 2 +ve and 1 -ve sections, is each one a supply in its own right or is it 2 supplies with the -ve share between the +ve? I ask as I don't know what would need a -ve dc supply.

I'm looking to power a RPi2 and Soekris dac in one case, I assume by using the correct value parts (or buying 1 x IRF+ and 1 x Bjt) i can power both boards. Is the low power only available in -ve?
 
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AndrewT

R.I.P.
Joined 2004
The PCBs I have are four regulator sections. They can be used still joined together or separated into small single regulator boards.

Each regulator needs it's own isolated supply.
Only when one side of these separated supplies is connected to the same common can you use a single transformer winding.
 
KevinHeem

KevinHeem

Member
Joined 2007
Paid Member
Hi,
I'm building a BA-3FE (Nelson Pass Design) using SSLV1.1 as power Supply. My question has to do with capacitors on the SSLV board.

I have the following caps on hand:
ClarityCap 4.7 mfd PX Range Polypropylene
ClarityCap 10 mfd PX Range Polypropylene
Epocs(tdk) 10 mfd Metallized Polyester Film Capacitors (MKT)
Elna Silmic II 220 mfd

I was thinking 4.7 mfd ClarityCap in the C103/C104 position and 220 mfd Elna Silmic II in the 101/201 Position. Does this make any sense? Please advise on the best use of these caps or if I should buy something different.

Thanks,
Kevin
 
yoke

yoke

Member
Joined 2004
I need help or advice
I manage to burn positive side of regulator that I just build...
While testing I got some wires lose (from dummy load) and regulator stop working, whell at least those two red led on one side doesn't light any more, while 4 green one still light.

Could you please advise me what to look,check or change on PCB, as I'm not EE...
I just know how to solder, maybe ,)

thanks
 
Last edited:
Salas

Salas

diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
yoke said:
could you please post some picture, as I'm building regulators for Najda too...
thanks
Click to expand...

As you face the connector when looking at the board's front edge, from left to right: Jumper first point with third point. That will be your + out. Jumper second point with fourth point. That will be your GND return. Now its two wire mode, no Kelvin.
 
yoke

yoke

Member
Joined 2004
no, not that much...:D
it was a mass on the flor and my girlfriend try to clean it up a little :D
I didn't notice that in that proces some wires get lose so I power it up...the led's did go on and off (while I try to measure voltage)..a then off for good :D
I have some spare Q203-205, so I will just change tham...:D
 
Salas

Salas

diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
yoke said:
Thanks Salas...
will do so...for both advices :D

I just notice it's not positive, that I manage to brun, it is negative (-12V) but I belive it's the sime ,)
will check Q203-205
Click to expand...

Yes they are numbered in that way so to be the same positions. You can use soldered jumpers under the board at the connector pins if for permanent two wire mode use. That way the screws will be free from jumpers. 1 or 3 will represent (hot) hookup screws while 2 or 4 will represent GND hookup screws. Keep close proximity to the load board and thick enough wires to it when in classic two wire mode.
 
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