different ideas for ESL panels

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ohhh, come on Charlie, you know i picked those subs off at first glance. you are right, i will have my family first, you have to love to live, family FIRST.
I still need some minor parts and will post a check list as soon as i can. terimial cups, spk wire, cleanining stats and coating, etc...
thanks Charlie on the insight of my life, very intuitive, thanks for all your help.
and, keep those subs, they barely sound broken in. there just might be a spot in the TL a jig saw can handle to make the hole a little larger.
Everyone, have a great weekend, be safe! its Pattie's day ! now or later, depends on when this shows up, later. Mav
 
Definitely the typical "sub" is too slow and clunky to fill the gap all the way up to where the electrostat takes over and it wouldn't be wise to lower the crossover point to meet it either. For this I prefer a really good 10" mid-bass woofer with clean response up to 2khz, crossed over above 250 hz to mitigate the stats dipole cancellation, as I used in my hybrids-- but Mav is doing this on a budget and he had those 8" carbon freebees lying around, which (even though we don't know their TS specs) will no doubt match up with the stats way-better than the powered subs he was contemplating earlier. In a perfect world, we'd all buy exactly what we want but the mortgage comes first and sometimes a compromise is necessary.

Mav, if you feel the need to upgrade to 10's, I could make you a great deal on those gorgeous Aurum Cantus MkII's you heard in my speakers :)



how much? really? ^_^
try and find that on your key board..^_^
 
bringing the router home today!! TL will built this evening. Stat panels will come along as well, i will post pics.
I do have a question,
How should I solder a lead to the stats? so that it is insulated? pics or refference on this please.

I would pick a corner and solder on a 6” length of insulated 6-20 gauge stranded wire to each stator. First, pair-up the stators with their smooth-edge hole perforations on the inside facing the diaphragm, then solder the wires on the outside, about 1/4” from the edge. Strip back the insulation on the wires just enough for soldering—you don’t want any bare wire hanging off the edge of the stators. The stator coating will probably not stick to the solder joints but that won’t matter because it’s on the outside edgeband and will be covered by the wooden frame and there’s foam tape between the stators there so no chance of arcing. If you look on my blogpage, there’s a pick showing where my wires are connected on my stators.

Good luck with coating your stators and don’t forget to coat the edges!
 
again/?
 

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i think it going to rain today, but here are some more pics. I am not going to router the out side untill i finish the stat housing, since it will me mounted on top, i do not think it would like right. one down, three to go.
 

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another build, ran out of belt sand paper, so they are just what you see, fantastic i think. I agrre with Charlie on everything but now this, these will weigh around 200lbs, and will have to carry them to work for rhino lining, fun?? as a drive a coupe. fun.
The next post is a quick shot of the rhino spraying and gun, yes it is messy, but we have something that makes it look new.
Another thing, going to use what in the south we call a "lazy susan" to mount the stats to the TL, if not familiar, a lazy susan is basically what is in a bar stool, that way my heavy TL stays where it is and will allow me to rotate the stats in any direction to achieve the "sweet spot"! If they the can hold a 200lb drunk person, stats are no prob. I will post a pic as soon as I get there. Mav
 

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a little idea of rhino, i am wearing a HAZMAT suit, my boss is very brave. You can see the pressure gauge as well as three temps, those contol the temp of the entire length of the hose from machine to gun, around 50', its pretty neat.
allso tried a pics of the shiny part on the box, allmost mirror.
I guess i will do some more tomorrow, any thoughts or suggestion are welcome. Mavric
 

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i highly respect that thought, but with the bracing in the TL, as well as a 100+ ball beariing count for the "lazy susan" there is no rattle. notice the box in the rhino room, it takes a great deal of effort to spin it around, it alone is over 100lbs.
they make so many different kinds, as you can tell, i will or will not take any shortcuts. only the best i can find will do.
Stay tuned, more to come.
and thanks for that comment, trust me, it was allready considered.
It was just posisition of the stats for movies, music,etc. why not try it? i can allways take it off.
 
not impressed at all with the TL. tried it last night. it will deliver a low bass note, but no mid bass what so ever. I like rock, heavy metal, what ever..no rap period.
the stats are so much easier to build, so, those will be be primarry.
as i said, thats why i want it to be removed if needed, or use something to place the stats in a way to focus the sweet spot.
the TL has a few issues.
>low bass at or around 20hz is mind blowing
>mid bass at or around 250hz is not realy present, there is no "snap" or " punch" that i am looking for.
>this was tested using a sound sweep, i can play single notes as well as multiple notes for a given time.
>I do not have the electronics to display a graph, so i go by ear.
> i played Beethoven, syphony#9 i believe. at low and high power sounded awful, untill a really low note was played. so i turned the TL around with the port facing me and the driver in the corner, fantastic.
> however, i was using my cross over and sweeping from time to time, but it just does not sound right, given i have no data on my divers as they are old and i am trying to use what i have.
Ger sent or referred me to a program, for vented enclosures.
as the stats need to be near or about ear level, i will use the bad one as a stand and put two drivers in the other using a folded horn design, (parts express had the knock down kit), i purchased it, and does exactly what i wan"t, i am ditching the 5 1/4" driver(s) and using the same box volume for my 8" .

> i know that got off topic a bit, but it will come together.
>the stats should be done with coating and finished by this weekend. All i can say for now, "this a work in progress" any suggestions are always welcome, MAV

please note Wachara C.,
the lazy susan is industrial use, it really does not move unless "you" make it move, this is not for seasoning trays in the kitchen, this is very heavy duty. I will try and send a pic.
well, i hope that says enough, i am terrable at posting, so please take that into consideration.
> as far as the TL, Mav has another sheet of MDF to work with, or, if someone has advice on altering the other i have not built yet. (Steve ,Liqudsonic) if you catch this delema, what would you do?


gotta work, later, Mav
 
The crossover that you are using is an active 24db per octave filter which means you will hear next to nothing above the selected frequency.
Very much diffirent than the 3db,6db or even 12db passive crossovers that you are used too.
There is not alot of sound characture below 200hz .
If you sweep it backup to 500hz to 1000hz or more it will magicaly re-appear, poof sha zam! jer
 
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