yes,and I also discoverd a program called "visual analyser 8" which has a scope,frequency counter ,rta and a thd analyzer all built in to it.
I did some test on my woofer driver and the results were very interesting.
Infact very impressive for a cheapy 8" RS sub above 100hz thd was below 2% to 1% thd in open air.
It makes me lean more towards a dipole setup.
Altough I will try a TL next as I discovered that having them in the box a built raised the THD cosiderably.
This might be due to the box being quite small (.65 cu ft) as I also discovered some severe panel resonances causing the rise in THD.
The ESL panels are next to be tested. jer
I did some test on my woofer driver and the results were very interesting.
Infact very impressive for a cheapy 8" RS sub above 100hz thd was below 2% to 1% thd in open air.
It makes me lean more towards a dipole setup.
Altough I will try a TL next as I discovered that having them in the box a built raised the THD cosiderably.
This might be due to the box being quite small (.65 cu ft) as I also discovered some severe panel resonances causing the rise in THD.
The ESL panels are next to be tested. jer
i think that the box is tuned very very low, even sloped @ 24db, when i play it a higher frequency than 50 hz, the sound is just awful. i guess it might an old driver but never encountered that sound or resonance in my old enclosure. with that said, i do not think it is the driver, the enclosure. It will hit a 20 hz note and the whole house is shaking, you cant hear it but you can dang sure feel it.
even at that low not, the woofer is very controled, as i raise the frequency, the subs seems stay in a pushed out way, hard to describe. not to mention my clipping alerts start acting up, which to me seems like a impiedance rise from the TL. There is no taking this thing apart, there is a half gallon of wood glue that i used, i belive you can never us too much.
As far as the stats, i have an AUdio Source spl, rta meter at work, the stats will be crossed @500hz @24db slope. to protect my amps.
I was using a lousy dvd player on the test ran to the x-over then to amp, i will try a better player and post results later. Going to go ahead and buid the other stat support. Thank you for your input, Mav.
even at that low not, the woofer is very controled, as i raise the frequency, the subs seems stay in a pushed out way, hard to describe. not to mention my clipping alerts start acting up, which to me seems like a impiedance rise from the TL. There is no taking this thing apart, there is a half gallon of wood glue that i used, i belive you can never us too much.
As far as the stats, i have an AUdio Source spl, rta meter at work, the stats will be crossed @500hz @24db slope. to protect my amps.
I was using a lousy dvd player on the test ran to the x-over then to amp, i will try a better player and post results later. Going to go ahead and buid the other stat support. Thank you for your input, Mav.
At what frequency do you have the crossover set at?
I inadvertently unplugged the power supply to the stats once and when I turned on my system and shoved a cd in the deck all I heard was bass and it sounded really awful-- probably because the upper bass was chopped off by the crossover's 24db slope but when I plugged the stat's back in it sounded normal (wonderful) again. I'm thinking your bass setup might sound better than you think once the stat panel is connected and filling in the other side of that 24db slope.
Charlie, that does make some sence, it is front loaded sub and rear fire vent. I just took another look at the crossever after being aggivted, sounds pergect @60hz and below. its freaking loud and sounds perfect untill i start letting higher notes come into it.
I guess the last question would be, do i need a high "Q" sub for this enclosure? It would be alot less expensive with a different design. 26$ vs a couple hundred that i do not have.
Just finished the other stat holder, waiting for glue to dry, then well, everyone know, sanding, router, some more sanding and so on.
A few select people have my phone #, it is easier to explain than describe. If anyone has time, give me a call. If all is well, i would like to go ahead and build the other TL, first one took two+ hrs. well, thats alot of wood and checking clearance at least three times before glue and tacking it together.
phone is in my pocket, computer is up stairs, thanks for the input on this, kind regards, Mavric.
I guess the last question would be, do i need a high "Q" sub for this enclosure? It would be alot less expensive with a different design. 26$ vs a couple hundred that i do not have.
Just finished the other stat holder, waiting for glue to dry, then well, everyone know, sanding, router, some more sanding and so on.
A few select people have my phone #, it is easier to explain than describe. If anyone has time, give me a call. If all is well, i would like to go ahead and build the other TL, first one took two+ hrs. well, thats alot of wood and checking clearance at least three times before glue and tacking it together.
phone is in my pocket, computer is up stairs, thanks for the input on this, kind regards, Mavric.
I was wondering where you had the crossover frequency set when you were playing the test tones through the speaker. Typically, I would expect any uncontrolled cone motion to happen BELOW the tuning frequency (woofer would decouple from the line) but not ABOVE above it. Even though you have a mystery woofer in a box copied from another design, it shouldn't sound awful... maybe a bit boomy or a little loose but not AWFUL.
With the woofer on the low side of a 24db crossover slope and no speaker on the high side of the slope, you would need the crossover set at least two octaves above any test tone if you want to hear it cleanly without being chopped off. For example, if you have the crossover frequency set at 250 hz and you're feeding a 120 hz note to the woofer with nothing on the other side of the slope, it's gonna sound anemic and chopped off. If you were playing the same 120 tone and the crossover were, let's say 500 hz, you should then hear most of the tone (but not all of it).
With the woofer on the low side of a 24db crossover slope and no speaker on the high side of the slope, you would need the crossover set at least two octaves above any test tone if you want to hear it cleanly without being chopped off. For example, if you have the crossover frequency set at 250 hz and you're feeding a 120 hz note to the woofer with nothing on the other side of the slope, it's gonna sound anemic and chopped off. If you were playing the same 120 tone and the crossover were, let's say 500 hz, you should then hear most of the tone (but not all of it).
it is an anomolay, the only thing i can think of is trying a different source for music, what i am using on test, is well test equipment, nothing special.
and your ten's that i have in mind are too deep, they would hit shelf#1 or so close that would cause issues.
I will be coating this weekend, one way or another, using a poly primer for coating, looking at 8 mil only, this stuff takes 24 hr dry time, so hope the weather helps out here a little. I will try and show what i am using. It is a two part mixture, non conductive coating and clear. Nice thing, even if i show a little copper on the lead to the stat, it is made to adhere to any metal surface as well as insulate it, rhino of course.
Charlie, your advice is all i need, i will do my best to build the other TL this weekend, then make some kind of arrangement to bring this to you and a oood look at it.. i think you will be impressed. thanks for everything, Mav
and your ten's that i have in mind are too deep, they would hit shelf#1 or so close that would cause issues.
I will be coating this weekend, one way or another, using a poly primer for coating, looking at 8 mil only, this stuff takes 24 hr dry time, so hope the weather helps out here a little. I will try and show what i am using. It is a two part mixture, non conductive coating and clear. Nice thing, even if i show a little copper on the lead to the stat, it is made to adhere to any metal surface as well as insulate it, rhino of course.
Charlie, your advice is all i need, i will do my best to build the other TL this weekend, then make some kind of arrangement to bring this to you and a oood look at it.. i think you will be impressed. thanks for everything, Mav
I will stick here, borat makes everyone dumber by the moment.
I will recaluatete the box today and check the tuning. From what i can get as information, a better souce for testing and the Audio Control meter for displayed measurements. RTA will be first as soon as the stats are done. This weekend I hope!
Stay Tuned! Mavric
stay away borick
I will recaluatete the box today and check the tuning. From what i can get as information, a better souce for testing and the Audio Control meter for displayed measurements. RTA will be first as soon as the stats are done. This weekend I hope!
Stay Tuned! Mavric
stay away borick
going to take or borrow the RTA meter from work today, how far should i place the the mike? michrophone? 1 meter? or just post samples of how the TL responds in my living area? it cost over two grand in the day, hope my friend will lend it to me for testing.
you can google what i am using or let me try and post a pic, stay tuned, better a personal pic than one off the net.
we did buy a new mike, for 'real time analazation" for our propietary enclures, so, should be up to rank. Wish i could do video, so typing and pics will have to do.
stay tuned, Mav.
you can google what i am using or let me try and post a pic, stay tuned, better a personal pic than one off the net.
we did buy a new mike, for 'real time analazation" for our propietary enclures, so, should be up to rank. Wish i could do video, so typing and pics will have to do.
stay tuned, Mav.
The wires are located perfectly and it will probably work fine just as you have it, although those solder joints do look a bit "cold" to me. I you haven't already sprayed the stators it wouldn't hurt to get reheat those joints from the backside and see if you can get the metal hot enough to make the solder wet to it and spread out some (if the solder beads up like a drop of water sitting on a freshly waxed paint job, that indicates the metal didn't get hot enough to make the solder wet to it).
Are you planning to assemble the stat panels this weekend?
No sir, i still have to coat them. just making sure all is well and spec. I appreiate your time very well and welcome, the coating is still in the blender so to speak.
GerJR, helped alot with the TL this afternoon, more than helped, got rid of the anoying sound and suggested more stuffing in the TL.
Next weekend should be DUE date, i hope. some more parts need to be here and all i can say" this is exiitng!" later Mav
Stay Tuned
GerJR, helped alot with the TL this afternoon, more than helped, got rid of the anoying sound and suggested more stuffing in the TL.
Next weekend should be DUE date, i hope. some more parts need to be here and all i can say" this is exiitng!" later Mav
Stay Tuned
i "tinned " the joint and then the wire, there might be a little build up of solder, i will dremal or grind it down to a smooth surface, then coating is next.
still want some input on rotating the the stats, i have purchased two heavy duty rotating bases,"lazy susan" type.
I guess time will tell, so far so good .
still want some input on rotating the the stats, i have purchased two heavy duty rotating bases,"lazy susan" type.
I guess time will tell, so far so good .
I hung my stat panels vertically (from wires) to spray coat them and I attached weights to the bottoms to keep them from swinging while I sprayed them. Of course, I used a regular gravity feed spray gun, which isn't nearly as heavy as that thing you use for the Rhino coating.
I prefer hanging the panels but I suppose it doesn't matter whether you hang them and spray both sides at once or whether you lay them down and spray one side at a time, letting them dry completely before flipping them over to spray the other side.
The important thing is to get all surfaces coated, especially the edges.
Hi,
Mavric, sorry to say, but the panels don´t look well to me.
The rims of the sheets are cut in a way that more than half of the crossextion area of each hole at the rim is left over. So You have numerous metal peaks/pins which are prone to arcing and which xou can´t coat sufficiently thick. Cut the rim an a way that less than the half area of the holes is left.
Second the solder joints don´t look well too. I´m afraid they will soon come off. It might help to scratch the metal sheet at the chosen joint and preheat the sheet locally with a gas flame.
Alternatively you could hardsolder or weld a fast-on connector to the sheet. 3rd alternative could be a screw through the sheet.
jauu
Calvin
Mavric, sorry to say, but the panels don´t look well to me.
The rims of the sheets are cut in a way that more than half of the crossextion area of each hole at the rim is left over. So You have numerous metal peaks/pins which are prone to arcing and which xou can´t coat sufficiently thick. Cut the rim an a way that less than the half area of the holes is left.
Second the solder joints don´t look well too. I´m afraid they will soon come off. It might help to scratch the metal sheet at the chosen joint and preheat the sheet locally with a gas flame.
Alternatively you could hardsolder or weld a fast-on connector to the sheet. 3rd alternative could be a screw through the sheet.
jauu
Calvin
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