Here is the schematic as posted by Rolv-Karsten (we owe that guy a lot)
:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=884496#post884496
You will know the tantalums as being under 220uF, I guess
Steen
:http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=884496#post884496
You will know the tantalums as being under 220uF, I guess
Steen
Thanks Malotron47uf 50v FCs worked just fine for me
I might have a Luxman PD comming my way!Dont remember the number though.
The SL10 is the best looking of Nelson Pass's preamp's, no doubt about that fact
Any chance to see a pic??Could you elaborate a bit on the 20.000uF?? I think I better raise the value in the NS10 a bit. Its just 1500uF for both channels.
Steen
steenoe said:Could you elaborate a bit on the 20.000uF?? I think I better raise the value in the NS10 a bit. Its just 1500uF for both channels.
Steen
Direct coupled +15 -15 rails with a 6 foot power cable (switchcraft mic?) It looks almost as good as the NS-10; at $560 off eBay, a bargain.
-Mal
Here is a snip from the brochure.
Attachments
even if elcos in your NS10 are old (and b'cause of that worthy to replace) do not underestimate these old blue jobies....
use whatever you find- Cerafine,Blacks or even decent Philips if you find them ;RIfa etc-bah-use whatever you find but with as much capacitance you can before regs.
after regs-use as smaller you can -try listening tests with as small you can,then increase and stop when you can say that you hear difference from preceding value.
PITA,I know,but if you wish....
if you wish-I really dunno topology of PS-try to make little sketch of it,and mebbe we can squeeze some nice shuntie in it?
if you are willing to spoil authenticity of origigi Papa's work......
IN ANY CASE-if you see 78xx and simillar - think about LM317 or -even better- plain darlington+zenner jobie instead
regarding-Tants-I don't like them,from era when I repair more than one Uher report and few Studer (ReVox) machines-I saw more than few blobs trying to be a popcorn. I presume that you have several of them in input and output positions......place some nice BGs instead (burn them on the table few days with 6Vac across) with Orange Drops or Rifa or Wima across them as bypass critters.
anyway -have fun and say if you need something ;Serbia is not so far away from ya
use whatever you find- Cerafine,Blacks or even decent Philips if you find them ;RIfa etc-bah-use whatever you find but with as much capacitance you can before regs.
after regs-use as smaller you can -try listening tests with as small you can,then increase and stop when you can say that you hear difference from preceding value.
PITA,I know,but if you wish....
if you wish-I really dunno topology of PS-try to make little sketch of it,and mebbe we can squeeze some nice shuntie in it?
if you are willing to spoil authenticity of origigi Papa's work......
IN ANY CASE-if you see 78xx and simillar - think about LM317 or -even better- plain darlington+zenner jobie instead
regarding-Tants-I don't like them,from era when I repair more than one Uher report and few Studer (ReVox) machines-I saw more than few blobs trying to be a popcorn. I presume that you have several of them in input and output positions......place some nice BGs instead (burn them on the table few days with 6Vac across) with Orange Drops or Rifa or Wima across them as bypass critters.
anyway -have fun and say if you need something ;Serbia is not so far away from ya
Malotron, thanks for the info and pic's. That SL10 sure is very nice
The psu for it is pretty substantial, indeed.
BTW did you notice an improvement soundwise, when you changed the cap's in your NS10?
Zen Mod, thanks for the tips I think i prefer to keep it as close to the original as possible, so the biggest change will propably be the electrolytic's (Maybe bypassed with a small polypropylene)
I was in ex. Jugoslavia several times on vacation, all the way down to Dubrovnik. Very nice place. I might stop by some day so we could have a beer I am sure that would be great fun
Steen
The psu for it is pretty substantial, indeed.
BTW did you notice an improvement soundwise, when you changed the cap's in your NS10?
Zen Mod, thanks for the tips
I think i prefer to keep it as close to the original as possible, so the biggest change will propably be the electrolytic's (Maybe bypassed with a small polypropylene)Thanks for the offer
I was in ex. Jugoslavia several times on vacation, all the way down to Dubrovnik. Very nice place. I might stop by some day so we could have a beer I am sure that would be great fun Steen
steenoe said:
Zen Mod, thanks for the tips
Thanks for the offer
Steen
yup;
I'm in Vojvodina,near border with Croatia,if that means something to you....
few (dozens) beers,some fishing and barbecues....why not...
me thinks that Oly will be thrilled,too
Great to see this thread alive again with all those posts and pics.
Tantalum caps? they seem to be quite idiosincratic and indivitualist but guess they were the best bet on those days since lytics were unreliable, short lived and leaky.
Times changes and now we have better lytics, but still they are weakest componets on electronic circuits. BG and Pana FC are good bets for the NS10.
How about BG at the input and FC at the output?
Tantalum caps? they seem to be quite idiosincratic and indivitualist but guess they were the best bet on those days since lytics were unreliable, short lived and leaky.
Times changes and now we have better lytics, but still they are weakest componets on electronic circuits. BG and Pana FC are good bets for the NS10.
How about BG at the input and FC at the output?
I recently picked up a used NS10, and sound quality-wise these things are amazing just as they are. It was a completely different sound compared to the BOZ and the op-amp based DIY unit I was using before. Light-years more transparent with actual body and holographic imaging. It was the first time I'd experienced something so hi-fi.
Then I replaced the power supply caps. Gone is the razor-sharp imaging. Everything sounds smoother and slightly fuller-bodied. The bass seems to extend further down, but with my Fostex speakers it's hard to tell. Initially, I figured this might be a cap burn-in thing, but even after around a week of continuous use, the sound is still essentially unchanged. All of this may be a bit of an improvement because the original sound was a little too hi-fi, but I'm still somewhat surprised at the change.
So steenoe, what did you find after replacing your PS caps? Any improvement? I'm personally going to limit myself to replacing the electrolytics seeing as GAS seemed to have a lot of smoking? success with them.
Then I replaced the power supply caps. Gone is the razor-sharp imaging. Everything sounds smoother and slightly fuller-bodied. The bass seems to extend further down, but with my Fostex speakers it's hard to tell. Initially, I figured this might be a cap burn-in thing, but even after around a week of continuous use, the sound is still essentially unchanged. All of this may be a bit of an improvement because the original sound was a little too hi-fi, but I'm still somewhat surprised at the change.
So steenoe, what did you find after replacing your PS caps? Any improvement? I'm personally going to limit myself to replacing the electrolytics seeing as GAS seemed to have a lot of smoking? success with them.
Thanks for the info Malotron. Nice work on that NS10
I didnt work on the NS10 yet, I am in the process of putting a shoppinglist together for the restoring project.
Thanks for the input everyone, I will go shopping and report back.
It might take a while though, since I am ordering some of the stuff from Taiwan.
Steen
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