apassgear said:
This NS10 circuit looks very promising for the use of the precision shunt regulator LM431. I have use these before for the output I/V and buffer on my CD player with excellent result.
The beauty of this compact component (TO-92) is that can be installed right on the gain board and use 2 of these for each channel (one per rail).
I’ll come up with some resistor values and schematic for testing.
I don't wanna to defence "my " (sound-westhost -boiled water
) solution.......TL431 is worth a try also,and only ears can decide..........
ya know this BS hififile blahblah-"mebbe too much feedback in my supply will spoil the delicacy of sound........"
but-I always prefer version with less feedback;
name of the game is to achieve that UI characteristics of source and load are angled as near to 90degs as we can achieve....
I must say that I have that xperience primary from making tube gadgets
choky said:
I don't wanna to defence "my " (sound-westhost -boiled water
TL431 is worth a try also,and only ears can decide..........
ya know this BS hififile blahblah-"mebbe too much feedback in my supply will spoil the delicacy of sound........"
but-I always prefer version with less feedback;
name of the game is to achieve that UI characteristics of source and load are angled as near to 90degs as we can achieve....
I must say that I have that xperience primary from making tube gadgets
Nice link Choky,
A Pi filter is always advisable before the reg, and if one makes it a CLC better still.
The example shown are worst case scenario.
I guess you are right, the ML431 deserves a test. Sound results will decide, but this low demand circuit seems perfect for this regs.
I did check ripple with the scope and is was flat all the way down to 1Hz but used an elaborate Pi filtering before the reg on the application I referred.
Ok, just to keep you guys from falling asleep I am working on a more "audiophile"-like version of the NS10. Attached is a pic of Choky's shunt reg supply. One for each channel, ofcourse I used small schotky's as rectifiers then 2200uf Nichicons, 100r 2 watts, then some Black Gates. (cause I had them in my box of caps ) Followed by good old BD's and 220uF FC's! What do think, will that psu do? Guess it will Mainboards will be stuffed with good parts too, you see the outputcaps on the pic 22uF MKP's. (Jantzen audio) The rest is FC's and Rifa polyprops and so on Will keep you posted about listening results I have great hopes for this little linestage, thats no secret
Steen
I am working on a more "audiophile"-like version of the NS10. Attached is a pic of Choky's shunt reg supply. One for each channel, ofcourse I used small schotky's as rectifiers then 2200uf Nichicons, 100r 2 watts, then some Black Gates. (cause I had them in my box of caps ) Followed by good old BD's and 220uF FC's! What do think, will that psu do? Guess it will Mainboards will be stuffed with good parts too, you see the outputcaps on the pic 22uF MKP's. (Jantzen audio) The rest is FC's and Rifa polyprops and so on Will keep you posted about listening results I have great hopes for this little linestage, thats no secret Steen
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steenoe said:Ok, just to keep you guys from falling asleep
Steen
if you put 2x100 ohms(instead of 2x120),than your ripple rejection will be smaller and both BDs will be hotter;
you think to put some lil' htsnks on BDs ?
in any case-get handy your DVM and measure current for one channel and finnaly give me that data (pleaseeeeeeeeeeeee);
after that I'll recheck values for "proposal" to make it finall solution-at least for my NS10 megaclone
btw-looks nice
will these sh**ty caps be in air-one leg on pcb,one on back side?
I just used 100r's cause I had them in my inventory
If 120 is a must, I have to order some?? Didnt think it would matter a lot, Choky? Yep, I have some heatsinking in mind for those BD's allright I am gonna saw a PC heatsink up in suitable pieces I will surely post my measurements on this one! I have "only" got a Fluke 87V so I guess you can rely on the digits?
Ohhh, the NS10 megaclone, is the one I am building ha-ha Steen
Very nice Steen!
I can't wait to see your mega-clone.
Just wondering about your post#157
I was not sure if there is a problem with my silkscreen or is that just a different pinout for that particular device. I just want to be sure just in case people might want an updated PCB silkscreen.
Also if anyone has any ideas for enhancements I may have a little time to get them in.
Cheers!
Russ
I can't wait to see your mega-clone.
Just wondering about your post#157
I was not sure if there is a problem with my silkscreen or is that just a different pinout for that particular device. I just want to be sure just in case people might want an updated PCB silkscreen.
Also if anyone has any ideas for enhancements I may have a little time to get them in.
Cheers!
Russ
I dont think they are that sh###y, at all
The Jantzen caps won all listenings tests they did in Denmark Just so you know!! With brands like M-cap supreme and other stuff like that, Jantzen took the score Nonetheless, I do intend to make them "Air-suspended" somehow! I might reconsider that, though, and make a more firm attachment Steen
steenoe said:I just used 100r's cause I had them in my inventory
I will surely post my measurements on this one! I have "only" got a Fluke 87V so I guess you can rely on the digits?
Steen
nah-just put some 22oms /0.25W on top of each 100ohms and enjoy;
it didn't matter a lot-you're right,but you need every ounce of killing that ripple-don't you think
regarding Fluke-just gimme all digits before comma and I'll be good
mods- I sayed megaclone first!!!
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steenoe said:I dont think they are that sh###y, at all
Steen
bwah-go to
http://choky.on.neobee.net/My_BOZ.html
and look at second pic from bottom of the page-now you can see what caps are
regarding suspension- just make both output caps tight close and put some plastic strips around both ,and then solder
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