well, with this kind of resolution it´s pretty well done NOT to spot them🙄
does this torpedo my cred? 😱
with 112 db sensitivity from 75-22K I´ll use any tricks available
best
Leif
does this torpedo my cred? 😱
with 112 db sensitivity from 75-22K I´ll use any tricks available
best
Leif
Im afraid this will take years to repair Leif. Unless of course you want to claim it was a build for an eccentric customer. Then you're in the clear 🙂
Thanks,
I have a friend, that is an industry professional, and he said that it was the most tube like sounding transistor amp that he has ever listened to. He did also comment that it has a lower noise floor than most tube amps and that is a good thing. 🙂
Talking about spotting...
Would that be a pair of Stax loudspeaker-terminals by any chance?
Cheers,
Kim
Would that be a pair of Stax loudspeaker-terminals by any chance?
Cheers,
Kim
Hi Botte
I feel your CSX is made with diy passion: great orginal built .
Your style wood & metal and curved is less "déjà-vu" if compared with all metal cube black boxes 🙂
Congratulation !
Build more 😀
Kindly regards
Christophe
Yes bought the last pairs from STAX as they´re no longer available or in production
really nice..have them on my 300Bs as well
and a couple of spare pairs....
best
Leif
Too tempting and unique to resist 🙄. Got saws and drills sharpened for a version of the heatsink concept - hopefully to house a BA-2/3 (prelim sketch indicates ~ 16" tall X 8" dia.). Don't really need/want the computer but kudos to Apple (New Mac Pro) for pushing the envelope again. Should be a fun winter project to apply to the amp chassis world 😀.
(@ Admin - Hopefully no copywrite violations with photos here 🙂)
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Hi, many thanks to Mr Pass and the diyaudio community here 🙂
Here are some photos my little ACA build. It's still a bit rough around the edges, but if I wait to finish I'll never post photos. I have sandwiched the MOSFETs between a PC CPU heatsink and a small 40x40mm heatsink. The MOSFETs all sit nicely within the foot print of the heatsinks, with a few mm of space between them.
I used a Cooler Master PC CPU heatsink (this one), which I picked up dirt cheap on ebay (~£10GBP). It's quite nice because it has metal feet with holes, so I was able to screw it down through the box. I've tried some other CPU heatsinks, but this one has been the best so far.
I removed the big fan from the CPU heatsink, it happily radiates passively. The 40x40mm heatsink is using a small fan, as the black side of the MOSFETs does seem to get warm otherwise. The small fan is supplied through a small DCDC switch mode step down (ebay again, ~£3GBP), just visible as a blue PCB in one of the images. That small fan is running at 5v (rated for 12v), so it is not audible. As for signal noise... the amp runs from a switch mode supply anyway, but I'm not sure! I'm delighted with how the amp sounds in any case.
In use the PC CPU measures at 50*C max. Without the small fan active the that rises to 70*C. So it is possible to run it passively and hot 🙂
I'm driving a pair of Fostex 206EN in transmission line enclosures. I've been using this amp for 5 months now 🙂
Thanks again!
Here are some photos my little ACA build. It's still a bit rough around the edges, but if I wait to finish I'll never post photos. I have sandwiched the MOSFETs between a PC CPU heatsink and a small 40x40mm heatsink. The MOSFETs all sit nicely within the foot print of the heatsinks, with a few mm of space between them.
I used a Cooler Master PC CPU heatsink (this one), which I picked up dirt cheap on ebay (~£10GBP). It's quite nice because it has metal feet with holes, so I was able to screw it down through the box. I've tried some other CPU heatsinks, but this one has been the best so far.
I removed the big fan from the CPU heatsink, it happily radiates passively. The 40x40mm heatsink is using a small fan, as the black side of the MOSFETs does seem to get warm otherwise. The small fan is supplied through a small DCDC switch mode step down (ebay again, ~£3GBP), just visible as a blue PCB in one of the images. That small fan is running at 5v (rated for 12v), so it is not audible. As for signal noise... the amp runs from a switch mode supply anyway, but I'm not sure! I'm delighted with how the amp sounds in any case.
In use the PC CPU measures at 50*C max. Without the small fan active the that rises to 70*C. So it is possible to run it passively and hot 🙂
I'm driving a pair of Fostex 206EN in transmission line enclosures. I've been using this amp for 5 months now 🙂
Thanks again!
Attachments
I've been building this thing from scratch, it's supposed to be a F5 with doubled output stage and 32V rails (turbo v1).
My woodworking skills are very bad, I'm already happy that the whole thing doesn't collapse. No tools whatsoever. A drill, some drill bits and a file. I really wish I had screw terminals.
Front board not ready yet.
Photo-skills bad as well, sorry 🙂
However, happy listening to it. Been a long ride and I've learned a lot - and there's probably a lot more to learn 🙂
Thanks to all who encouraged me building this thing.
My woodworking skills are very bad, I'm already happy that the whole thing doesn't collapse. No tools whatsoever. A drill, some drill bits and a file. I really wish I had screw terminals.
Front board not ready yet.
Photo-skills bad as well, sorry 🙂
However, happy listening to it. Been a long ride and I've learned a lot - and there's probably a lot more to learn 🙂
Thanks to all who encouraged me building this thing.
Attachments
It's a graphics card cooler, doesn't work too great.
Had to set a lower bias as I originally intended. 300mV across .5 Ohms instead of 400mV.
Leg temperature, according to my $10 DMM, is 60°C.
Thermalright HR-03 Plus VGA Cooler - Newegg.com
Ooops I think you should plan for a proper build instead. It will get worse when you close the enclosure.
nebiki, you should at least cut large holes in the sides directly opposite the coolers to the hot air is ejected out of the cabinet. You can do this with a $10 coping saw by drilling four holes at the corners and cutting from hole to hole with the coping saw. You can attach screen outside the holes to prevent intrusion.
Tell yourself this: it's a first try. You can remount the amp later in a better enclosure if you desire as your skills will increase 🙂
Tell yourself this: it's a first try. You can remount the amp later in a better enclosure if you desire as your skills will increase 🙂
Okay, since this enclosure is a "test" only, I decided I would do what you said, just a little bit different.
I've drilled a few 10mm holes on the sides where the coolers sit.
It helped a lot. Right now I have only one side drilled and the temperature difference between the channels is above 10°C.
Thank you 🙂
I've drilled a few 10mm holes on the sides where the coolers sit.
It helped a lot. Right now I have only one side drilled and the temperature difference between the channels is above 10°C.
Thank you 🙂