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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Crunchville, where I don't fit in.
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I've been wanting to build these for a long time.
After many models and designs I just couldn't make up my mind. I went and built something that I could change easily if I wasn't happy. My system will be sub augmented so the low lows weren't that important to me but I did want some good extension. So , what I ended up with is a 3ft3 sealed enclosure that I can vent later if I like. In fact I can swap both front baffles and the rear baffle with a little effort. At this internal volume both sealed and vented tracked almost equally in winisd so I'm starting sealed. It is made of mdf/birch ply/oak ply and the speaker baffle is cotton/carbon impregnated phenolic that I found somewhere (looks like carbon fiber he he). All wood materials were scrap from the garage No passive Xover...all active. Whadya think?
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Crazy Yankee. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Crunchville, where I don't fit in.
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'nother
..................go
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Crazy Yankee. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Crunchville, where I don't fit in.
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and another
waiting........................................... ........................go dang! ........now.
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Crazy Yankee. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Crunchville, where I don't fit in.
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'tis it till thier done.....
goin to flip the record then hit 'submit'. ok
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Crazy Yankee. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Crunchville, where I don't fit in.
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OK,
I fired them up today. Obviously either winisd didn't plot it right(doubt it) or the parameters I have are way off(probably). While they were playing I removed the rear baffles... Now we're getting somewhere! With the rear baffles removed the extension is surprisingly good I think what I am gonna try next is popping a vent into a rear baffle and experiment there. If I don't get anywhere there I'll try an aperiodic vent where my future reflex vent goes. If I don't like that I'll take the rear baffles off entirely and try and tame the resonance... hum, maybe I should start with that ?? any comments appreciated
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Crazy Yankee. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Greets!
Without knowing the driver model and the specs you used, it's kind of hard to comment other than they look nice.......... That, and the cavity resonance will be ~6780"/internal height. GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Crunchville, where I don't fit in.
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thanks for chiming in GM, I was lonely
Yeah, not a lot to go on here. I wish I had the facility to come up with the parameters but I can't take the time to get it together. In other words, I don't know how and I don't have the time to learn it at the moment So, I'm flying by the seat of my pants. The people over at yahoo tannoy say it's a k3148/k3149 Qts=.4 FS=32Hz VAS=9.54ft3 Re=5.6R BL=22 SPL=92dB 12 inch driver I have no idea how accurate this is.... Thanks for the quick formula, that would put the cavity resonance at ~180hz. I guess my ears aren't too far off
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Crazy Yankee. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Athens-Greece
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I think you dont employ BSC in your active crossover. Is it right?
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Crunchville, where I don't fit in.
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Quote:
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Crazy Yankee. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Athens-Greece
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If you dont employ baffle step correction, please follow this experiment. Screw back your back baffles and connect a 1mh coil in series with each woofer. Reduce your HF amp output by 3dB. Listen to decide if you are heading towards some better balance. Let us know so to see for further steps. This must be the Tannoy used in monitor red? SRM 12?
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