wixy said:
Start looking for a table saw and a jointer if you are going to want to make 45 degree joints. The best way I have found to make a 45 degree joint
One of these
But then you need a router table
I was looking at circular saws today, it appears they can all rotate the blade to cut at a 45 degree angle. This would be easiest right?
To begin with, do you guys think i can get away with just a circular saw with a straight edge and a router for cutting the timber to size? I am thinking a quality circular saw may be a better investment than a table saw for the same price.
To begin with, do you guys think i can get away with just a circular saw with a straight edge and a router for cutting the timber to size? I am thinking a quality circular saw may be a better investment than a table saw for the same price.
wixy said:
That's a good assumption, however, it will take lots more care and practice to get accurate cuts. Do you have a local Adult Education center or school that does woodwork classes? They will probably have all the tools you need, and you will have the advantage of a tutor right next to you if you have problems.
Should you invest in an inexpensive table saw and/or circular saw, you may want to pick up a Lee Valley Poly Gauge http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32521&cat=1,43513
I've found it invaluable for setting up standard angles on my tablesaw and router table. It's a quick and easy way to verify angles if you don't trust your $99 tablesaw!
Scott
I've found it invaluable for setting up standard angles on my tablesaw and router table. It's a quick and easy way to verify angles if you don't trust your $99 tablesaw!
Scott
wixy said:
for your first project consider using butt edges -- these can come out square with a handheld circular saw if you use a device like a "Strait-Kut" (or whatever they call it) to guide the saw -- then you can veneer the edges, or use 1/4" birch ply to veneer and 1/4" quarter round molding for the edges.
I think that it is rather difficult to cut a 45 deg bevel on a piece of bulky wood like MDF or particle board -- even on my Delta saw -- I prefer to use the butt edges, using biscuits to hold in place -- biscuits aren't that strong but they make it easy.
I definitely suggest a circular saw with a rail guide system over a tablesaw- Easy setup, and no fence capacity issues. Best to have both (a giant tablesaw changes matters, or a large tablesaw base) but if I had to live with one or the other, I'd DEFINITELY stick with a railguilde and a circular saw.
Oh, I use my router all the time, not just for flushmounting the driver holes (critical for good performance from mids and tweets), but for flush trimming edges, joinery, roundovers on baffle edges (a must, IMHO) and other matters. Drill and clamps are necessities.
I like to use ply, and weight-conscious bracing- in other words, I don't think a lot of added mass is always best, but the enclosure must be strong. I use rabbets for my joinery, as they aid in assembly. Extra work with the router table, but makes life easy during glue-up and can achieve better results, especially if you like to leave the ply raw. You can get a very thin (<1/8") exposed edge with easy assembly with this method.
A friend of mine put it best- A tool is never a wasted investment. Don't ever buy a piece of junk tool, it's always best to make sure you get one that will allow your work to shine. I've put too much effort into some cabinets, and the culprit has been tooling.
Start slow, and measure twice, cut once. One of our regulars around here (forget which nick, at the moment) says "The golden rule of DIY- build nice or build twice" And he's absolutely right.
Oh, I use my router all the time, not just for flushmounting the driver holes (critical for good performance from mids and tweets), but for flush trimming edges, joinery, roundovers on baffle edges (a must, IMHO) and other matters. Drill and clamps are necessities.
I like to use ply, and weight-conscious bracing- in other words, I don't think a lot of added mass is always best, but the enclosure must be strong. I use rabbets for my joinery, as they aid in assembly. Extra work with the router table, but makes life easy during glue-up and can achieve better results, especially if you like to leave the ply raw. You can get a very thin (<1/8") exposed edge with easy assembly with this method.
A friend of mine put it best- A tool is never a wasted investment. Don't ever buy a piece of junk tool, it's always best to make sure you get one that will allow your work to shine. I've put too much effort into some cabinets, and the culprit has been tooling.
Start slow, and measure twice, cut once. One of our regulars around here (forget which nick, at the moment) says "The golden rule of DIY- build nice or build twice" And he's absolutely right.
A skill saw will make cuts just as accurate as a table saw in sheet stock. The trick is to use the correct guide system. Do a google search for ez smart guide or festool. A regular straight edge will also work very well. I have a full size table saw and still use a festool skill saw with a guide to bevel cuts in sheet stock.
This is a great thread. Being new to all this myself I've also been thinking about which tools to get. I already have a jigsaw and after reading this thread I think my next purchase should be a router. Should I get a plunge or a fixed base router? What is the main difference between the two?
Type,
Buy a combo unit. That way you get both. Until I bought a second router, for a long time I had the fixed base mounted under a table I built and used the plunge base for freehand routing. I just moved the motor back and forth.
Doug
ps: Avoid the old-style Porter Cable combo unit. It's a bear to get the motor out of the plunge base. I don't even know if they sell it anymore, but be sure it's not that one (speaking from experience).
Buy a combo unit. That way you get both. Until I bought a second router, for a long time I had the fixed base mounted under a table I built and used the plunge base for freehand routing. I just moved the motor back and forth.
Doug
ps: Avoid the old-style Porter Cable combo unit. It's a bear to get the motor out of the plunge base. I don't even know if they sell it anymore, but be sure it's not that one (speaking from experience).
I vote for a combo as well - the cost is not mcuh more than a single and you gain so much flexibility. Mine is a Bosch 1617. Swapping bases is easy, but it takes two distinct movements to release it is secure.
I wish I had sprung for the variable speed unit so I wouldn't have to take my variac out into the shop. You'll want to slow your router down if you swing big bits like a 1.25" roundover.
I wish I had sprung for the variable speed unit so I wouldn't have to take my variac out into the shop. You'll want to slow your router down if you swing big bits like a 1.25" roundover.
badman said:
It sure bothers me. On mine, you have to unscrew the allen bolt completely. It takes about five mintues. I've tried and tried, but that is the only way to release it. When I bought it, though, there really wasn't anything else available. Now, everyone makes a combo unit. Otherwise, I love PC routers. They've been very good to me. Now that I have two, I leave one motor in the plunge base. Problem solved
Doug
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.