Jack
Thanks for posting the pics. This jig is really easy to use, a few test cuts and it can be fine tuned to any diameter you need. The other way I have seen it used is to cut the router hole to fit the brass guide bushings used with routers. That way the jig is never mounted on the router.
Bob
Thanks for posting the pics. This jig is really easy to use, a few test cuts and it can be fine tuned to any diameter you need. The other way I have seen it used is to cut the router hole to fit the brass guide bushings used with routers. That way the jig is never mounted on the router.
Bob
5/8 in rabbet bit
Hey guys, I messed up big time making a pair of speakers. I cut out the through holes intending to rabbet the flange depth. Turns out I don't have the 5/8 in rabbet required.
Are these even made?
~Home Depot, Menards, Lowes, True Value and Ace do nto have them.
Is there any other way to make this flange cut? I can't think of anything.
If anybody near Dayton, MN has a rabbet big enough for the job, could you please email me?
Thanks everyone.
just for clarification:
///| <--5/8"-->
///|_________
//////////////////|
//////////////////|
Hey guys, I messed up big time making a pair of speakers. I cut out the through holes intending to rabbet the flange depth. Turns out I don't have the 5/8 in rabbet required.
Are these even made?
~Home Depot, Menards, Lowes, True Value and Ace do nto have them.
Is there any other way to make this flange cut? I can't think of anything.
If anybody near Dayton, MN has a rabbet big enough for the job, could you please email me?
Thanks everyone.
just for clarification:
///| <--5/8"-->
///|_________
//////////////////|
//////////////////|
Relax-
Cut yourself a plug for the hole from some scrap material. You'll then have a center pilot hole to re-rout the rebate.
If you can get behind it, screw this to the back of the baffle with a slat or two. If not, attach it to the jig, or router itself, with a little soap rubbed on the edge for lublication.
Good luck.
Cut yourself a plug for the hole from some scrap material. You'll then have a center pilot hole to re-rout the rebate.
If you can get behind it, screw this to the back of the baffle with a slat or two. If not, attach it to the jig, or router itself, with a little soap rubbed on the edge for lublication.
Good luck.
Well I finally purchased a table saw; it is a Bosch 4000-9. Perfect for my golf Cart Garage Workshop. The stand is a very clever folding apperatus that uses its own weight to open and close the saw. the width is a mere 24" and the stand has wheels so it stores easily. It has been wet all weekend so I was only able to set it up and align it. Can't wait to start a new project.
Ray
Ray
Here's a little homebrewed thingamabob that can be used with as much tiny finesse or hamfisted brutality as the job requires. I'm amazed at how often this thing comes in handy.
Just a multi-purpose jaw vise grips with threaded rod replacing the adjustment screw. Mild steel billet drilled through for the slide hammer (i just used an old sledge hammer head).
Threaded rod has to be tapered at the point similar to the adjusting screw that it replaces (easily done on a bench grinder).
I've also discovered that the hole in the hammer needs a slightly oversized countersinking on the back end. Without this the nut eventually will mash the hole smaller and bind on the threads.
Just a multi-purpose jaw vise grips with threaded rod replacing the adjustment screw. Mild steel billet drilled through for the slide hammer (i just used an old sledge hammer head).
Threaded rod has to be tapered at the point similar to the adjusting screw that it replaces (easily done on a bench grinder).
I've also discovered that the hole in the hammer needs a slightly oversized countersinking on the back end. Without this the nut eventually will mash the hole smaller and bind on the threads.
It's a variation on a slide hammer. Essentially it's an "anti-hammer".
Once you've used it a few times, you wonder why the hell Vise-Grips doesn't sell a version.
I used it for demolition when I was I was rebuilding parts of my house and garage last year. Grasp onto whatever is resisting you and yank away with the slide. It's pretty persuasive. I've used it for furniture restoration to pull old glue joints gently apart.
You can yank pulleys and sprockets (where you're sure that bearing damage is not a concern). Perfect for pulling nails in impossible to reach situations - and extremely fast if you have to pull a large number of them.
It works great for very carefully removing stuck things because you can just use the slide to gently tap things out. I've combined it with easy-outs to pull studs and stuck parts on motorcycles, cars and shop machinery. Good for rust-stuck situations.
It's interesting how often I'll reach for it at at least one point in just about every project I'm into.
Once you've used it a few times, you wonder why the hell Vise-Grips doesn't sell a version.
I used it for demolition when I was I was rebuilding parts of my house and garage last year. Grasp onto whatever is resisting you and yank away with the slide. It's pretty persuasive. I've used it for furniture restoration to pull old glue joints gently apart.
You can yank pulleys and sprockets (where you're sure that bearing damage is not a concern). Perfect for pulling nails in impossible to reach situations - and extremely fast if you have to pull a large number of them.
It works great for very carefully removing stuck things because you can just use the slide to gently tap things out. I've combined it with easy-outs to pull studs and stuck parts on motorcycles, cars and shop machinery. Good for rust-stuck situations.
It's interesting how often I'll reach for it at at least one point in just about every project I'm into.
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